Orbital Transport Glider upscale

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burkefj

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I wanted to do an orbital transport glider for a while, but buying a bunch of BT-80 tubing and cones for my kits finally pushed me over the edge. For a standalone glider that boosts vertically I didn't want a low mounted wing with dihedral, I prefer a mid mounted wing to get the servos on the bottom but up away from landing damage. Based on the dimensions I was able to just re-use the same wing I use for the Hypersonic III, Jayhawk, and Marauder kits so I had a known good CG location. It went together really quickly, and I hand cut the vinyl trim using what I had laying around. I used standard straight elevons and just mocked the angled wider tip elevons with trim vinyl and some sharpie markers to give it that "orbital transport" look. I added some leading edge color since it was a bit plain, and added a stripe on the bottom to remind me what direction I should be pointing:)

CG just needed .25 oz of nose weight, so AUW ready to fly with E-6 is 10.25 oz. 2.6" diameter, 32" long, 20" wingspan.
 

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Here's the flight video from this morning.

[video=youtube;IGJMzGdror4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGJMzGdror4[/video]
 
I got the decals from Stickershock today and put the stockershock cut black text on my prototype that had hand cut markings I had done, and and put the full set from Mark on the second prototype, did a video on putting the markings on, and uploading that now. Here are the two versions.

IMG_20171206_171157453_BURST000_COVER_TOP.jpg

IMG_20171206_171132991_BURST000_COVER_TOP.jpg
 
Here are two videos I did showing how to apply the stickershock23 markings

Part 2 [video=youtube;3scmrm_sg90]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3scmrm_sg90&t=472s[/video]

Part 2 [video=youtube;6hAVBjgj6CA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6hAVBjgj6CA[/video]
 
I completed the DynaSoar OT with sticker shock decals and simulated carbon fiber self adhesive monokote on the wing leading edge. With all the electronics, but no motor, I have a weight of 8.3 ounces.

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I liked the small notch idea towards the aft end of the body tube for sliding the wing into the length-wise cut-out. The CA safe-foam glue and accelerator that I have works too slow for me. I like the Bob Smith Foam glue, but it is still slow, however, I can tell that it is working. I used it for the gluing the wing in place and placed a book on top of the top body tube while the glue cured. When I got to placing the motor mount in the aft-end, I realized that the body tube was out of round there. In any case I decided to live with the out of roundness. Otherwise, I had no problems with assembly. I decided to not use the hot air for the Stickershock decals and I think that they look fine.
 
Yeah, the flattening of the tube was an issue which is why in my instructions I say you have to do a bit at a time pinching the tube to make sure it is round as you glue. I'm surprised the CA+ foam safe and accellerator is slower than the foam tac, my bob smith stuff sets nearly instantly when I set it which is why I use it. For the stickershock markings as long as they stay put that's fine, if they start to peel off a bit under airspeed, try the hot hair dryer trick, they will conform very nicely.

Frank
 
I flew my DynaSoar Orbital Transport Glider yesterday for the first time and had a good flight with no damage. I am concerned about my rail and the rail buttons. The OT seemed to waver about 70 feet above the rail or closer. I don't know if it came off the rail bad or there was an extra breeze. Then the model recovered and made slow and steady progress to a good altitude. All the time I kept my hand off the controls during the boost. After reaching peak altitude I flipped the switch to glide mode and had fairly good control thereafter, although I could not make any progress on bringing the model back closer to the flight line. Walking out to the model to pick it up, I was amazed how far away I was from the flight line. That was a good indication to me that the model had made significant altitude.

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I was ready to fly the Strato Dart, but after test sliding the model up and down my rail the rear rail button came off, which will be easy enough to fix.
 
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I always am in full control during boost, so I don't ever use a hands off boost, there is always some wind to adjust for, not sure what your winds were like. I keep my rail spotless and spray with silicone spray to avoid buildup. I notice the act of going up the rail causes the button to unscrew over time so I check them regularly, did the button pull out or just unscrew? For flying in wind you need to boost into the wind and make s turns always into the wind and let it come back over the flight line for landing, never make full downwind turns in high wind, you get too far away. Best practice is to take a plane up, chop the throttle and practice spot landings. You see in my videos I fly in wind often and it is rare I can't hit the runway even in a crosswind, it's just practice and judgement. Kit looks great btw
 
It was a calm day for UROC's Frank Hunt Field, which we use to call the Pony Express Range. The Pony Express use to ride across this piece of prairie about 150 years ago. The forecast called for about 6 mph winds. I would say that after 10:30 AM we would have periodic pick up and decrease in winds. Unfortunately, about 10:00 AM was when the range was setup and opened. I tried to use some stick once on the Strato Dart during boost at the Hellfire meet last summer. The wind was strong enough at that time that it warranted control, but I was not sure how well I did because the trajectory moved into the sun. The OT boost yesterday might have been in the cross wind direction and the glide was probably with the wind. During the glide I may have gone against the wind with not much success.

Looking at the rail it doesn't look real bad. There is some soot for an inch or two at the bottom on one slot, but it won't hurt to clean the rail up. I haven't used it to much, but it was used for 2 TARC flights this Spring and there were a few people using the rail at Hellfire last summer. All the rail button pieces including the blind nut came off on the rear button, which will make it easy to fix. I don't recall seeing any adhesive residue, so the button may not have been attached well in the first place.
 
Hi what I mean to ask was did the rail button tear out or just come unscrewed and the pieces fell out? I don't usually use any glue on mine, just check them occasionally.

Frank
 
Hi what I mean to ask was did the rail button tear out or just come unscrewed and the pieces fell out? I don't usually use any glue on mine, just check them occasionally.

Frank

It looks like the parts just came unscrewed and fell out. I found a photo on my wife's cell phone of the OT just coming off the rail.

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Looks good, yeah, keep an eye on the rail buttons to see if they are unscrewing or put a touch of locktite on the screw.
 
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