Must be modeling clay, the kind that never dries out. It's quite sticky and mostly stays in there by itself. For very high-G flying other means of securing it might be necessary.
Nose Weight
- Thread starter Sluggo
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I like to use a wood dowels to mold the clay into the nose area. Rotate the nose cone in one hand while tapping the rod in a circular motion.
I thought this was the thread but I can't find it - isn't there something like putting the nose cone in hot or boiling water to allow the clay to level off in the nosecone?
Edit: Found it in this post over here. Much thanks to @jqavins. I used water just short of boiling and now the Estes nose cone clay is settled nicely into the tip, smooth and flat.
Also, JB Weld now markets a 2 part adhesive called Plastic Bonder. It is billed as an "OEM Automotive and HD truck approved body panel adhesive" and gap filler, 3770 psi cure strength (about average for epoxy). It's supposed to be good ("great" on the package...) for filling gaps, plastic-to plastic and plastic to metal bonding, working on both thermoset and thermoplastic plastics, carbon fiber composites, coated metals and concrete. I used it to fillet between the (balsa) fins and plastic fin cans on my brother-in-law's V-2 and it expanded slightly, but not objectionably. If I were to pursue putting lead shot into a plastic nose cone, I'd probably make a batch of this stuff - though it's not overly fluid, if you make enough it will flow. Maybe others make this stuff as well.
Edit: Found it in this post over here. Much thanks to @jqavins. I used water just short of boiling and now the Estes nose cone clay is settled nicely into the tip, smooth and flat.
Also, JB Weld now markets a 2 part adhesive called Plastic Bonder. It is billed as an "OEM Automotive and HD truck approved body panel adhesive" and gap filler, 3770 psi cure strength (about average for epoxy). It's supposed to be good ("great" on the package...) for filling gaps, plastic-to plastic and plastic to metal bonding, working on both thermoset and thermoplastic plastics, carbon fiber composites, coated metals and concrete. I used it to fillet between the (balsa) fins and plastic fin cans on my brother-in-law's V-2 and it expanded slightly, but not objectionably. If I were to pursue putting lead shot into a plastic nose cone, I'd probably make a batch of this stuff - though it's not overly fluid, if you make enough it will flow. Maybe others make this stuff as well.
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