Nitrile Gloves?

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TALON

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OK, I am going to start building mid power rockets with epoxy. So I need to get advice on what I should look at in the nitrile gloves.*

1. Ambidextrous or Specific L-H?
2. What thickness do you prefer?
3. Powder or not?
4. How do I measure/figure out what size to order?
5. What grade, industrial or food?

Would like your thoughts, and hope I didn't post in wrong place.

THANKS
 
Your local pharmacy will have them. Ask a pharmacist about size. Not handed. You'll really only need one hand protected. No powder. Use tools to apply so you don't have to touch it. The gloves are really only necessary for fillets.
 
Depends on how you want them to fit:
Tight fit would recommend "lightly" powdered to get on and off. Powdered leaves a powder residue on your hands that usually is wet from sweat when removed.
Loose fit=no powder.

To test for size, go to the glove section in a Big box store and check out what size of gloves fit your hands. Most of the big box stores, Home Depot, Lowes, Wal Mart, etc... carry the nitrile in small packs as well as large packs.

Thickness is a preference, the thicker they are the more resistant to puncturing from sharp objects.

Mike
 
Wally World-Kmart etc. CVS-Walgreens.........

a box of 50 is 5-6 bucks 100 8-12.00

Someplace's they are on the shelf...... others behind the counter, must ask clerk. Always somewhere in pharmacy.

someplace's universal size others have small- med-large.

You know how small or big your hand is, don't you? They stretch so it won't matter that much. Unless your hands are really tiny, good ole medium works for most of us. If you can palm a basketball like the pro's...... you need large! LOl

They make them so you just flip one way or the other for Left or Right.

Just the standard medical ones they sell. You start asking for industrial that's another department and open the wallet....25-35 bucks for 1 pair. Too thick to handle small parts. Food grade is generally the same as medical or even "baggie" style cheappies that will burn through with epoxies and solvents.
 
Um, I've tried "universal" and they are always too tight. I always need XL. Of course, I wear 4E shoes too.

I agree with Mike Bauer. Go to HD try on some mechanics type gloves and figure out what size you actually need. Then buy the thicker nitrile gloves in the correct size. I don't think the ones I get there are powdered.
 
https://www.mcmaster.com/#gloves/=sb1v9z

This should tell you what size you need. Select the "About Glove Sizing"

Nitrile gloves drive me crazy because they tear easily. If you need XL and can't find them locally, and you're not allergic to latex, I prefer the latex gloves because they will stretch more and are less prone to tearing.

I suppose I could change my mind if I could find bigger and thicker nitrile gloves at the local HD.
 
I've bought some that I really liked from the local autoparts store. They had more variety than the hardware store. The gloves at the autoparts store also seemed to be a little more heavy duty.
 
I usually go through about 20 pairs of gloves a day at work.

Just as another point of view, when we switched to Nitrile (we used latex previously) the first thing we noticed was how much more tear-resistant the nitrile was, as opposed to latex.

This is what we use:

SEC%20SEC375_domestic_LG.ashx


We go through about 2-3 cases a week.

Since they work so well at work I also use them at home for rockets. I pay $15/box from Amazon (linky). The Extended Cuff is very nice to have, especially when wet sanding.

Also, it's worth pointing out that latex is a very poor barrier to epoxides, and wearing latex is better than nothing - but - you will still develop a reaction, eventually. Nitrile is a far better barrier.


All the best, James
 
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Harbor Freight if there's one near you is a good source. Use your coupon or catch them on sale.

I buy the XL as I prefer the ease of putting of them on and taking them off.

Keep some baby powder or corn starch handy. If...er WHEN you get epoxy on your gloves dip them in the powder and rub them together. That will prevent you from transferring the epoxy to everything else. Some recommend emptying the powder into a paper bag and opening it up as needed. It's a good solution, too, and keeps the powder from wandering.
 
I have some 8mil thick ones that are certified for chemotherapy. You don't need them that thick. The 5mil ones that Harbor Freight sells seem to be pretty good. I find that the cheap ones (usually 3mil thick or less) tear at the worst time possible (like just as you are pulling the plug out of your oil pan). As OD said above HF has them on sale quite often, but check the thickness.

As others have said, I usually get the XL size. You can check your size in the work glove display or garden center of Lowes/Home Depot/Walmart. Stick your hand in a large and see how it feels, adjust from there.
I use mine when working with CA as well. It is a lot easier to deal with a little bit of glove on a part as opposed to skin on a part....
 
If you are working with epoxy, wearing gloves is a good idea. Also, if you are doing larger jobs like laminating tubes or tip to tips wearing a inexpensive respirator rates for organic vapors is a good idea.




Mark Koelsch
Sent from my iPhone using Rocketry Forum
 
TALON,

I like powderless 5mil XL gloves in blue nitrile. Longs are good as they protect up to the mid forearm. Put on two or three pair for big jobs. Peel and go when it gets messy. Once your hand gets sweaty it’s a real problem to “hot swap” individual gloves. Oh, and clean up with paper towels and denatured alcohol.

Feckless
 
Wow! Thanks everyone. Great advice from all. Especially using layers & removing a layer as it gets messy, or usong powder after you get som epoxy on them. I will try both and see what works best for me. Thanks again
 
One thing to remember with any disposable glove is to change them often. Seems like my shop has glue and "ick" all over because people keep their gloves on when they change tasks, or need another tool. Their hands stay nice and clean while they smear their "ick" on everything. When the next guy goes to get a tool, yuk, he gets "ick" on his non-gloved hands.
Oh, uh, rant off???
 
^^--yeah, gloves are no substitute for not getting it on you in the first place. Once something gets on the gloves, they're trouble. There are few cases where you could have to use your hands, but doing a little epoxy gluing isn't like doing fiberglass layup of a boat in a mold using 55 gallon drums of resin! I usually use paper towels to get the caps off, etc. and use sticks and tools to handle it. Often I end up washing some almost imperceptible amount off one finger, but then, even with gloves half the time I end up getting a little on my elbow or something.
 
You don't need to get powdered gloves. I have a container of baby powder that, if I feel like, I will put on my hands and rub them together and then put on the gloves. Easy peasy.

After buying a few different kinds of nitrile, you figure out which ones you prefer and what works best for you.

Greg

---

General note to those who are new to epoxy: The reason why we use nitrile over latex is that nitrile provides a much better barrier than does latex. That's important to avoid getting epoxy sensitization.
 
Harbor Freight if there's one near you is a good source. Use your coupon or catch them on sale.

I buy the XL as I prefer the ease of putting of them on and taking them off.

Keep some baby powder or corn starch handy. If...er WHEN you get epoxy on your gloves dip them in the powder and rub them together. That will prevent you from transferring the epoxy to everything else. Some recommend emptying the powder into a paper bag and opening it up as needed. It's a good solution, too, and keeps the powder from wandering.

Seconded.
 
Nitrile gloves drive me crazy because they tear easily. If you need XL and can't find them locally, and you're not allergic to latex, I prefer the latex gloves because they will stretch more and are less prone to tearing.

I suppose I could change my mind if I could find bigger and thicker nitrile gloves at the local HD.

These gloves are really good and don't tear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017UBWKO/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 But they are more pricy than the thin ones.
 
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If you need XL and can't find them locally, and you're not allergic to latex, I prefer the latex gloves because they will stretch more and are less prone to tearing.

Latex does not protect you from developing allergies to epoxy. Epoxy goes right through latex. Every one can develop allergies to epoxy, not an "if" issue but a "when" issue.

There are several different kinds of Nitrile gloves, some are designed for mechanics to work on vehicles, these are thick and tear resistant.

Mike
 
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Latex does not protect you from developing allergies to epoxy. Epoxy goes right through latex. Every one can develop allergies to epoxy, not an "if" issue but a "when" issue.

There are several different kinds of Nitrile gloves, some are designed for mechanics to work on vehicles, these are thick and tear resistant.

Mike

OK thanks. Will have to look at auto parts store then..I got big paws
 
My preference is the Kimberly-Clark Purple Nitrile Exam (KC500) glove. 5.9 mil, good protection, comes in four sizes, available at Amazon. It's what we use at work in the labs as well (hence the preference). I also suggest using nylon or cotton glove liners, they are much better for comfort than powder, makes glove removal easy (very important if you have to change in the middle of a job), and when sized properly you don't lose dexterity. Reuseable too, if the outer glove doesn't break. They make a huge difference if you work in a warm, humid area (Houston garage).

David
 
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