Next Up: Little Bucky Jones

[messedupryan]

In honor of Bucky Barnes getting his own Disney+ show today I've decided to stop procrastinating buying a Little Bucky Jones. Apogee seems to be sold out, and I'm not sure if the lights are still on at The Pemberton Website. Does anyone know if ordering via paypal from them still works?

I'm itching to get started on a couple of more builds, so if anyone knows of any 28mm kits with this 60s sci-fi type style I'd love to know more!

 

[Cape Byron]

Layne Pemberton @Pem Tech has been posing here recently, so he's still around.

 

[dpower]

I’ve emailed Layne recently, he hasn’t had time to keep dealers stocked, but is still selling direct.

 

[messedupryan]

Layne Pemberton @Pem Tech has been posing here recently, so he's still around.

I’ve emailed Layne recently

I shot him an e-mail this morning. Thanks for the help folks!

 

[mjennings]

LBJ is in my build pile still, but the 24mm Space Arc kit was a lot of fun to build and a great flier.

 

[messedupryan]

LBJ Ordered. Can't wait to convert this to a build thread!!!

 

[messedupryan]

I have a tracking #. Should be here Monday night. I cannot wait!!!

 

[Lugnut56]

This is one of my favorite rockets. I love the 50's sci-fi theme and the flowing lines of this rocket.

 

[messedupryan]

I saw this thread from @hermannj soon after I joined the forum. I think it was inevitable that I'd get one, it was love at first sight!

 

[messedupryan]

waaaaahooooooo

almost gave the mail guy a hug when he walked up with these


I think this officially becomes a build thread tomorrow!

 

[messedupryan]

WOW!~

I recently started building model rockets again. Same old story I see all over these forums, enjoyed the hell out of rocketry as a kid and I am finding my way back. I've been burning through the Estes catalog this spring, but I wanted to branch out. Forget branching out, this kit is on a whole different tree!!!



I was giddy cutting this thing open, trying to be careful to not lose any of the smaller bits that tumbled out as I tipped the bag. The fins are much sturdier than anything I have dealt with up till now. They are absolutely beautiful with clean, sharp edges, and most importantly they don't feel like bits of soft wood are about to fall off. The tiny forward fins already give me tinges of anxiety, but we'll deal with that later. The centering rings were already cut, as were all of the fins! Sounds like all of the cutting on this project will be tube cutting, another small source of apprehension. Then there is this bit...

At first glance, I thought I broke something already. My confidence shaken, I navigated to Page 2 to check out the inventory. Turns out, I am expected to do something with this! Apparently I am going to turn that broken chopstick into a sleek and stylish canopy!!

Now we have to talk about these instructions. I've read entire books and been less entertained than I was in the first 3 pages. Maybe tongue-in-cheek sarcasm and corny jokes are just my "jam", but I actually put them down last night so I could take time to ready them front to back this morning over coffee. The contrast between this "manual" of sorts, and the 1 page language agnostic infographic that comes with today's Estes kits is refreshing. Makes me a lot less concerned to tackle new techniques and tasks on this build having such in depth pictures and descriptions.

New things that both excite and unnerve me:

• Balsa Nose Cone
• Balsa Carving (Canopy*)
• Kevlar shock cord
• Cutting Tubes
• Nose weight + mention of a swing test!

 

[mjennings]

@Pem Tech's Destructions are great! Work slow, read over things, ask questions here, and you'll do fine!

 

[dpower]

Sounds like fun! I really like Layne’s kits (Built 2), they’re unique, challenging, entertaining, and they turn heads at launches!

 

[mbeels]

Maybe tongue-in-cheek sarcasm and corny jokes are just my "jam", but I actually put them down last night so I could take time to ready them front to back this morning over coffee.

Oh yeah, his destructions are great, and his rockets are fun!

 

[messedupryan]

Okay, time to draw lines and cut some tubes. Just took it slow and stady and multiple short passes with a #11 Xacto and the ass end fell right off my body tube


The destructions speak next of sanding/prepping the nosecone. They mention a technique of thin CA + sanding + thin CA + sanding. I think I am going to look for a video/thread to help understand this a bit more before a ruin what is a rather attractive nosecone.

 

[messedupryan]

Welp, I tried. I followed a thread and took a crack at CA + sanding + primer + sanding. I used a bit too much CA and it dripped down to the tape and presented some difficulty trying to get the tape off. I was nervous about removing much balsa, so I ended up with a rougher texture after the CA, but it is much harder that the raw balsa. Then I worked on a few layers of primer / sanding / primer /sanding. Learning new skills is all part of the fun though



Set the primered cone aside, and now I am working on the Motor Mount. Pretty straight-forward, I like these black centering rings. This design also has no motor retention on either end of the MM, so I will be using tape rings and friction fit it would seem



Dry fit looks clean, and it almost looks like a Rocket might be coming together here.

 

[neil_w]

Welp, I tried. I followed a thread and took a crack at CA + sanding + primer + sanding. I used a bit too much CA and it dripped down to the tape and presented some difficulty trying to get the tape off. I was nervous about removing much balsa, so I ended up with a rougher texture after the CA, but it is much harder that the raw balsa. Then I worked on a few layers of primer / sanding / primer /sanding. Learning new skills is all part of the fun though

Results look good.

I started off with that same thread (at least I'm guessing the same, given the sharpie-covered nose cone in the first picture). I had several problems with it, so I've modified my approach:

1. Sand nose cone first to get it reasonably smooth (400/800 grit)
2. Apply CA. Always hold the CA from the shoulder, point it downwards. Apply the CA starting at the shoulder and working down as necessary to get complete coverage, and not squeezing too hard so that the CA squirts all over (VERY BAD). Basically you're dribbling it down, letting gravity work. Keep holding it point down until it stops dripping. No CA should ever get on the shoulder if you work this way. Also, although expensive, I use BSI SuperGold CA which does not fume, so I can do this over the garbage can in my basement with no problem.
3. Sand smooth. It won't be perfect; try not to oversand through the CA layer.
4. Apply thinned CWF to the nose cone. I try to make this as thin as possible, spreading and removing excess with my fingers
5. Sand smooth, gently. You're just filling the pits left by the first CA round
6. Optional: Apply a final *thin* coat of CA with a Q-tip. Just enough to harden and seal the CWF. Sand smooth.
7. Filler/primer and sand.

I'm quite happy with the results I get like this, and it's pretty easy. The hardest step by far is #3, sanding the thick coat of CA. But it's made easier by the fact that you're not trying to get it perfectly smooth.

I probably tweak and modify this procedure with each nose cone I do.

 

[messedupryan]

This is awesome feedback Neil. Step 2 was a big miss on my part, I will try it this way next time. This was my first experience with thin CA, and I am glad I prepped for it. I splattered droplets as I worked and made quite the mess of the tape and bonded tape to wood. Doing things nose down would solve this, I'll just need to make sure I am setup to catch the drips

I seriously debated Step 4, I plan to try this next time as well.

 

[messedupryan]

My next step in this build is to cut the small 1/4" tubes. I've only ever used a hobby knife and a #11 Xacto blade. I am going to try to cut the first 2 tubes with this method, since they are straight cuts and not angled. I need to look for a way to do the 45º cuts on the Launch Lugs, I don't trust myself to do those by hand without a jig or mitre box of some sort.

 

[neil_w]

This is awesome feedback Neil. Step 2 was a big miss on my part, I will try it this way next time. This was my first experience with thin CA, and I am glad I prepped for it. I splattered droplets as I worked and made quite the mess of the tape and bonded tape to wood.

Thin CA is fantastically useful but also scary. When dispensing from the bottle, *always* (no exceptions!) do it gently in a controlled manner, holding the nozzle of the glue bottle as close as possible to the target or touching it. Always have something underneath to catch drips. There should never be splattered droplets.

When doing a nose cone, I touch the nozzle to the cone, and mostly let gravity carry liquid out of the bottle. I then drag the nozzle back and forth over the cone, looking at achieve full coverage. When I used to use regular CA, I would do this outside, and let the extra drips just fall on the ground. Now that I do it inside, I do it over a large garbage can.

Doing things nose down would solve this, I'll just need to make sure I am setup to catch the drips .

With thin CA, you should *always* work so that gravity will carry the drips away from you, and/or away from the areas you don't want to be glued. Assume it will flow all the way to end of whatever you're working on, and then drip from there.

 

[AfterBurners]

Welp, I tried. I followed a thread and took a crack at CA + sanding + primer + sanding. I used a bit too much CA and it dripped down to the tape and presented some difficulty trying to get the tape off. I was nervous about removing much balsa, so I ended up with a rougher texture after the CA, but it is much harder that the raw balsa. Then I worked on a few layers of primer / sanding / primer /sanding. Learning new skills is all part of the fun though

View attachment 461502 View attachment 461503 View attachment 461504

Set the primered cone aside, and now I am working on the Motor Mount. Pretty straight-forward, I like these black centering rings. This design also has no motor retention on either end of the MM, so I will be using tape rings and friction fit it would seem

View attachment 461505 View attachment 461506 View attachment 461511 View attachment 461507

Dry fit looks clean, and it almost looks like a Rocket might be coming together here.

On the CA and balsa it does work well but in the past I would take plastic sandwich bag and put a puddle of CA on it. I would then rotate the nose cone in it to apply it evenly starting at the tip and lowering the angle until everything is covered. I would do this twice with sanding between each coat. 220 and then 320. Appling with an applicator can cause drips and runs. After which you have your choice to off products to fill any imperfections and do a final sanding and primer. It's one of the bests methods I found that works and keeps fingers from getting CA on them or anywhere it shouldn't be. I would also recommend getting sound CA de-bonder in case you do get CA on your fingers or anything else.

 

[Pem Tech]

Results look good.

I started off with that same thread (at least I'm guessing the same, given the sharpie-covered nose cone in the first picture). I had several problems with it, so I've modified my approach:

1. Sand nose cone first to get it reasonably smooth (400/800 grit)
2. Apply CA. Always hold the CA from the shoulder, point it downwards. Apply the CA starting at the shoulder and working down as necessary to get complete coverage, and not squeezing too hard so that the CA squirts all over (VERY BAD). Basically you're dribbling it down, letting gravity work. Keep holding it point down until it stops dripping. No CA should ever get on the shoulder if you work this way. Also, although expensive, I use BSI SuperGold CA which does not fume, so I can do this over the garbage can in my basement with no problem.
3. Sand smooth. It won't be perfect; try not to oversand through the CA layer.
4. Apply thinned CWF to the nose cone. I try to make this as thin as possible, spreading and removing excess with my fingers
5. Sand smooth, gently. You're just filling the pits left by the first CA round
6. Optional: Apply a final *thin* coat of CA with a Q-tip. Just enough to harden and seal the CWF. Sand smooth.
7. Filler/primer and sand.

I'm quite happy with the results I get like this, and it's pretty easy. The hardest step by far is #3, sanding the thick coat of CA. But it's made easier by the fact that you're not trying to get it perfectly smooth.

I probably tweak and modify this procedure with each nose cone I do.

These are quite logical modifications. I applaud your determination. When I get time the new LBJ Destruction Manual will reflect your modifications.

Thanks!

 

[messedupryan]

Made some progress each night this week. Got the tubes for the motor mount cut/glued/painted.

Got the first half done in one night, worked on the second half another...


I'm not going with the Gold paint scheme, so I chose to go with gold for the motor tube.

 

[SkyFire]

Made some progress each night this week. Got the tubes for the motor mount cut/glued/painted.
View attachment 463087 View attachment 463088 View attachment 463090
Got the first half done in one night, worked on the second half another...
View attachment 463089 View attachment 463092

I'm not going with the Gold paint scheme, so I chose to go with gold for the motor tube.
View attachment 463091

What gold paint are you using?

 

[messedupryan]

I'm a Silver > Gold guy. My wife's favorite color is "Gold and Black". I didn't want to spend any money on gold I won't use again, so I stole from her crafty-thing supply.

 

[messedupryan]

I am down to the last exterior bits, and I have a question.

The last tube for me to attach is the Launch Lug. I have 2 sets of tubes that could qualify as launch lugs. There have been minor differences in the photographs compared to what shipped (e.g. nose ballast washers vs the picture lead weight, and laser cut fins vs the pictured sheet of balsa) so I am not sure what to do with these.

The clear tubes are 1/4" and the smaller tubes are 3/16". The pictures make it seem that I should be cutting the larger ones and attaching them on the LL lines I traced using the tube guide. Is the intent here to choose between the 2? Do I use the 1/4" as decorative and the 3/16" in another location as the launch lug?

Anyone have any suggestions here?

 

[neil_w]

If the larger ones are 1/4" on the *outside*, then they're about right for a 3/16" rod on the inside. So I would go with those.

A lug that's 3/16" on the outside would work only for a 1/8" rod, which is too small for that model.

 

[kuririn]

+1 to what Neil is saying.
Even though the destructions say "LLs of your choice", it's a 24mm mount so a 1/8" rod might be too thin and flexible. Rod whip would be a concern.
So I would go with the bigger lugs (and bigger stiffer rod).
Note that the two lugs are glued side by side on the airframe but only one is actually used. The other is eye candy.
Laters.

 

[bschultz32]

There are prefectures that offer only rails at launch events. I haven't built a rocket with rod launch lugs in a very long time. Launch lugs that use rods are so 80's. Don't install launch lugs on your rocket. Use rail buttons or conformal rail guides (GLR Acme Conformal Rail Guide ™ (pair, 8 sizes) – GiantLeapRocketry),
Bob Schultz

 

[messedupryan]

A lug that's 3/16" on the outside would work only for a 1/8" rod, which is too small for that model.

These felt *tiny*, thanks for helping confirm

Note that the two lugs are glued side by side on the airframe but only one is actually used. The other is eye candy.

This is exactly what the photos show, the extra smaller tubes just threw me for a loop.

Launch lugs that use rods are so 80's. Don't install launch lugs on your rocket.

My club has 2 racks of 1/8", 3/16" and 1/4" inch rods. I also built a smal, portable launcher with rods that use with my family. They might be old, but they work. I am really interested in trying smaller rail guides at some point though!