New Estes 3” Der Big Red Max coming soon!!

Onebadhawk
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I wish someone from Estes would step into this thread and some excuses/reasons for why this kit seams to be under designed and mostly low end components were used. Especially the self stick decals and lack of strength.
Speculation isn't getting the answers we need here.
 
Not sure it is fair to say underdesigned. It was designed to work optimally with Estes BP E and F motors. I imagine it was kept light for that reason. Easy to upgrade if you want more power.

Certainly the production cost of the kit is part of this equation, as mentioned in some previous posts.

Some folks have issues with large water slide decals. I would be good with either type.

i think the speculation on here will turn out to be spot on.
 
Last edited:
markschnell said:
BTW - I know some people aren't happy with the self-stick decals that came with this. For what it's worth, they are the thinner variety which won't leave a thick edge on each one.
I'm not using them anyways. I doing my own Mandalorian themed one.
Click to expand...
If you need a place to unload them, I'd be happy to take them off your hands... I'd like to do some experiments someday on application techniques... That is, unless someone else (stateside) is willing to try my ideas for me. Basically, will they apply well if applied to a "wetted" rocket (using glass cleaner as a wetting agent). I could still use them for a potential 3" Der Big Big Red Max II build, though (3" diameter upscale of the DBRM (1977) two-stage, payload version).
 
Mine arrived yesterday. I’m looking at sticker shock and waiting on single piece fins before I open the box. Very difficult to be patient.
 
Woody's Workshop said:
I wish someone from Estes would step into this thread and some excuses/reasons for why this kit seams to be under designed and mostly low end components were used. Especially the self stick decals and lack of strength.
Speculation isn't getting the answers we need here.
Click to expand...


Have you TRIED to use large waterslide decals? Nearly impossible to not rip them. I love this kit, complaining about it is an insult to Vern. Yea, I said it. BTW, I ordered 4 from acsupply.
 
K'Tesh said:
I'd like to do some experiments someday on application techniques... That is, unless someone else (stateside) is willing to try my ideas for me. Basically, will they apply well if applied to a "wetted" rocket (using glass cleaner as a wetting agent).
Click to expand...
K'Tesh - Here are instructions I have for applying stickers / vinyl wraps to cars. It might help. "Pre-wash the area where you’ll be applying the sticker using either soap and water or a mixture of rubbing alcohol (70% isopropyl alcohol) and water—we recommend a 50 / 50 water / alcohol solution. After cleaning with soapy water, rinse thoroughly with water until no soap or residue remains. Do not use window-cleaning products. They may leave a residue behind, making your sticker cling less effectively." "You can apply most smaller decals without using water, but for large and very large stickers, this trick is a life-saver. After cleaning your surface area, wet the area again using a spray bottle and a solution of about 5% soap / 95% water. Apply the sticker while the area is still wet. This will keep it from adhering immediately and give you time to reposition if necessary. It also enables you to remove any bubbles using a squeegee or a plastic card. The soapy water will dry in a few minutes and leave your sticker firmly affixed."
 
Question, I would also plan to laminate the fins with 1/16" balsa, but would I get more strength by crossing the wood grain direction between plies or just keep all layers the same parallel to the leading edge?
 
Antares JS said:
Question, I would also plan to laminate the fins with 1/16" balsa, but would I get more strength by crossing the wood grain direction between plies or just keep all layers the same parallel to the leading edge?
Click to expand...
You would definitely get more strength crossing the grain direction. This is exactly why large sheets of plywood end up being stronger and more stable than just edge-glueing solid wood. The question I have though, is whether it makes that big of a difference in a 1/4 finished balsa fin.
I just cut out the 1/16 balsa in any old direction so I could get the most fins out of the balsa on hand. That being said, if I wasn't worried about having enough, I'd absolutely apply it across the grain of the center piece.
 
While watching NARCON presentations today I found bandwidth to multitask and attach the fins to both the single and two-stage versions of the new 3" DBRM.

IMG_5035D.JPG

The sustainer for the two-stage version is an 81% downscale of the original DRM, as appropriate for the BT-55 airframe tubing used.

IMG_5034D.JPG

James
 
James, will this be staged with the flight computer or are you running a stuffer tube through the cone for gap staging?
 
Scott_650 said:
...will this be staged with the flight computer or are you running a stuffer tube through the cone for gap staging?
Click to expand...

It will use an extensible piston tube mounted in the nose cone, with ignition handled by a PerfectFlite miniTimer 4.

These piston staging arrangements have been used successfully on my 1/12 Little Joe, Der Bumper Max, and Maxi Brute-based Bumper WAC. An overview of the setup can be seen in the Bumper WAC thread at: https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/revisiting-the-estes-maxi-brute-v-2.140236/page-2#post-1693887

James
 
Hi- Will anyone be building this for use with small 38mm motors (with plywood upgrades)? Wondering what kind of body tube mat'l is used, and don't want to fly the thing apart. I like the 3" size and don't want to go with a 4" clone version
 
Little Nose cone work on mine :)
rlW9Jo8.jpg
 
Just inconvenient. I just went to the site to get a Saturn 1B and a DBRM, and they are both out of stock.
 
James Duffy said:
An out-of-the-box set with no skin would be plenty strong for a stock build.
Click to expand...
Yes, but do they look right, given that this model is an almost 2 times upscale, but has the same thickness fins as the original DRM? :)

If I get one of these, I’m currently leaning toward the 1/16th balsa skins idea.
 
BEC said:
Yes, but do they look right, given that this model is an almost 2 times upscale, but has the same thickness fins as the original DRM? :)

If I get one of these, I’m currently leaning toward the 1/16th balsa skins idea.
Click to expand...
I paper all my fins - more from an abhorrence for sanding than a search for more strength - and I typically use 20lb bond but with the Big Max I’m thinking thin card stock instead, that should at least hide the seams 😉
 

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