Need technique for "papering" fins

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J Blatz

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I am about to start my build of the Estes Astron Elliptic II and am hoping to put paper on the fins to avoid having to fill the grain. Can anyone point me in the direction of a quick and simple tutorial on this technique?

Thanks!
 
Use Full-Sheet labels, such as Avery 5353, lay out your parts on the adhesive side of one sheet, lay the adhesive side of another sheet on top of you parts, burnish both sides with the rounded end of a sharpie, and cut apart with a hobby knife.

As simple as papering gets.

G.D.
 
Just recently I discovered the wonders of papering fins. No more sealing, no more sanding!
A sheet of card stock over a light coat of white glue pressed on a flat surface works ok. The label idea is even easier.Laminate your wood stock with label material then trace the patterns directly onto the laminate. WHen the fins are cut they are already finished.
 
D'oh. I wish I'd thought of that for the set of replacement Silver Comet fins I cut recently. Paper the stock BEFORE tracing the pattern and cutting the fin stock. BRILLIANT!

Only I'd want to make sure I make note of the wood grain direction first. (Not that it would matter as much with papered fins, or would it?)
 
I frequently use Monokote Trim Sheets. It is a mylar film with an adhesive backing on it. If you can find a color that you like, then you do not have to paint. I can finish an entire 3" OD X 6' rocket in about an hour. It also only costs me about $15 - $20 to finish using the trim sheet method. I would not recommend regular Monokote where it is ironed on in the application. I have not received results that I am impressed with. I also found that when I finsh a rocket in silver or gold chrome trim, it seems to be invisible when sitting out on the pad, so I limit the amount of the chrome finishes that I use. I hope this helps someone.
 
Use Full-Sheet labels, such as Avery 5353, lay out your parts on the adhesive side of one sheet, lay the adhesive side of another sheet on top of you parts, burnish both sides with the rounded end of a sharpie, and cut apart with a hobby knife.

As simple as papering gets.

G.D.

I like the ease and consistency of the self adhesive label paper, and I've found that hitting it with a hot iron after its put on really gets the glue working.
 
I use full sheets of 3M label paper and have had good results. After the final trim cut with the hobby knife I use a little thin CA along the edge to make sure of a good seal. No more sanding and sealing the grain on fins.
 
I've posted about this MANY MANY times before... including pictures...

Label paper is okay, but it has its drawbacks...

I've found the best results (for me anyway, though others on here have reported terrific results as well) comes from using ordinary printer paper and regular white glue. Works great and REALLY strengthens the fins! Plus it's cheap and easy to do.

Do a search for "Papering fins" because there was a whole thread on this not long ago and I posted the whole procedure step-by-step and pictures to go with it... Or you can look up my "Dr. Zooch Vanguard Eagle beta build" thread using the search function-- the pictures and procedures are in that thread as well...

Later and good luck! OL JR :)
 
There was something a few months back in Sport Rocketry about using 90% Isopropyl Alcohol that improved the finish, it was a write up on someones talk at NARCON I believe, but the article was very light on the details any one know more about the process or was at this talk?
 
I've used Avery label paper on a few rockets and 3m 77 + printer paper, both with mixed success. Either the edges curled up during spray painting or the fins de-laminated over time. Very annoying.

I've also tried Trim Monokote which bonded quite well. Need to mask off the fins though before painting the rest of the rocket. And fillets over the monokote may not be as strong.

Next time I'll try plain printer paper and white glue.
 
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I've used Avery label paper on a few rockets and 3m 77 + printer paper, both with mixed success. Either the edges curled up during spray painting or the fins de-laminated over time. Very annoying.

I've also tried Trim Monokote which bonded quite well. Need to mask off the fins though before painting the rest of the rocket. And fillets over the monokote may not be as strong.

Next time I'll try plain printer paper and white glue.

I've had similar issues with the Avery label paper. Last time I needed to restock, I accidently picked up something that Staples calls "sticker paper" and I've had better results with that. I'm not sure what the difference is - it looks just like the full-sheet label paper. Maybe the adhesive is more aggressive.
 
Has anyone used virgin kraft paper for adding strength? I only ask because it's the preferred paper for cylindrical pyrotechic shells (Italian style) primarily for its raw strength. Good kraft has a smooth, if not copier-paper-perfect finish.
 
D'oh. I wish I'd thought of that for the set of replacement Silver Comet fins I cut recently. Paper the stock BEFORE tracing the pattern and cutting the fin stock. BRILLIANT!

Only I'd want to make sure I make note of the wood grain direction first. (Not that it would matter as much with papered fins, or would it?)
You are correct to note the grain direction. From personal experience I have learned that papering the fins does NOT correct for misalignment of fin grain.:cry::cry:
 
It probably does no harm to get the grain right, but my experience is that papering the fins certainly does make them a lot stronger. That's with basic copier paper and white glue, though - other coverings may be less effective. I have one rocket whose fins are the wrong way round (*) and which is as strong as any normal rocket now its fins are papered. Another one has the fins correctly aligned for grain but broke them anyway on its first two flights. It has two large horizontal fins with smaller vertical fins on the tips, and those vertical fins kept breaking. A similar size rocket with long, swept back (unpapered) fins using the same size parachute has survived many landings without damage, so it's not the parachute that's the problem. Anyway, I papered all this rocket's fins and they survived the next flight without damage.

(*) Intentionally. It was a kit with long thin fins that weren't likely to survive transport, let alone flight and landing, so I turned them 90 degrees to make the rocket easier to pack.
 
It probably does no harm to get the grain right, but my experience is that papering the fins certainly does make them a lot stronger. That's with basic copier paper and white glue, though - other coverings may be less effective. I have one rocket whose fins are the wrong way round (*) and which is as strong as any normal rocket now its fins are papered. Another one has the fins correctly aligned for grain but broke them anyway on its first two flights. It has two large horizontal fins with smaller vertical fins on the tips, and those vertical fins kept breaking. A similar size rocket with long, swept back (unpapered) fins using the same size parachute has survived many landings without damage, so it's not the parachute that's the problem. Anyway, I papered all this rocket's fins and they survived the next flight without damage.

(*) Intentionally. It was a kit with long thin fins that weren't likely to survive transport, let alone flight and landing, so I turned them 90 degrees to make the rocket easier to pack.

That may be, but the simple fact is, the fins WILL be STRONGER YET if you run the grain the correct way-- either aligned with the leading edge of the fin (strongest) or perpendicular to the body tube-- NEVER parallel to the body tube...

It's a proven technique that adds ZERO weight and greatly increases the strength of the fins... whether they are papered or not.

The papering probably added enough strength to the fins on your rocket to make them "strong enough" for the loads that they're seeing in flight and landing... but as someone else mentioned, they tried papering the fins on their rocket to make up for the grain being parallel to the tube, and the fins kept breaking anyway... obviously the loads are higher or different and therefore the fins cannot hold up to the load, and break anyway.

SO, what may be true in one application doesn't necessarily carry over to all others... sometimes the correct answer is "it depends".

Later and good luck! OL JR :)
 
Yup. I found your technique and advice very helpful.

Here we are:
https://forums.rocketshoppe.com/showthread.php?t=9362
Excellent thread on papering.

You're welcome... glad to be of help.

I know I've posted it about a half dozen times or so around here as well...

https://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?13600-Dr-Zooch-Vanguard-Eagle-Beta-Build-Thread

https://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?28632-Paperen-Fins

https://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?27622-Balsa-vs-Basswood&highlight=papering+fins

https://www.rocketryforum.com/showt...er-wth-my-paper-skins&highlight=papering+fins

https://www.rocketryforum.com/showt...e-finishing-questions&highlight=papering+fins

https://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?30957-Newby-techniques-please&highlight=papering+fins

https://www.rocketryforum.com/showt...to-make-them-stronger&highlight=papering+fins

https://www.rocketryforum.com/showt...r-primer-versus-paper&highlight=papering+fins

https://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?38369-Papering-fins&highlight=papering+fins

https://www.rocketryforum.com/showt...-vs-Sanding-Sealer-vs&highlight=papering+fins

https://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?41698-help-with-papering&highlight=papering+fins

https://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?42979-Fins-where-did-I-go-wrong&highlight=papering+fins

https://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?42250-Balsa-technique-question&highlight=papering+fins

And that's just a smattering of those on the first three pages of the search results...

Later! OL JR :)
 
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