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Need Clearcoat Suggestions

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Kitch

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I've recently finished the decal work on my Estes Sentinel (my first full blown out of the bag project as a BAR) using many techniques I've learned from this forum.

Anyway, it's painted with Krylon gloss white. With everything I've read about so far touching on how clearcoats cause yellowing on white paint jobs, what do you folks suggest?

-Kitch


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lovs3fly

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I use PPG Concept 2010 two part arcylic urathane. Expensive but tough and will not yellow.
 

sandman

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To repeat. Clearcoats themselves do not cause yellowing.

It's the paint under it that yellows.

The best thing to do is to wait at least two full weeks to be sure the paint is cured.

Tip*
If you can smell the paint, it's not fully cured!

One of the safest clearcoats to use is Testor's or better Future Floor finish.

Again wait for the white paint to be fully cured...not just dry.
 

BobH48

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The best thing to do is to wait at least two full weeks to be sure the paint is cured.
Tip*
If you can smell the paint, it's not fully cured!
Yep, exactly what sandman said.

I read an article in a magazine for plastic modelers that some brands of paint may not fully cure for up to a month. I'm sure they are talking about hobby paint but it's something to keep in mind.

Don't rush the clearcoat.
 

lovs3fly

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If you really want a great paint job that is durable and can be painted within 24 hours including clear you need to go to the automotive side. Yes, it is expensive and yes it may be overkill for our hobby. But, you will not find any better paints as far as looks and it will take a heck of a beating. Just think of all the wear our cars take. Once you use it you will not go back to anything else. Again, it is expensive when you get all the componets but it is worth it.
 

Micromeister

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I really hate to give bad news..but over time your White uncoated model will yellow anyway. Titanium solids in the paint will take on a yellowist tinge (titanium oxide) as the years go by. I generally no longer use any overcoat material on my finsihed models other than Nu-Finish wax. That said If you absolutely,positively have to coat your model with something clear. go with Future floor finish.
 

Kitch

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Thanks for all the info!

Although I remember commercials for Future floor finish as a kid, I'm not really that familiar with it. How is it best applied to a model? Does it protect decals well?

John and Sandman, you guys are right on about yellowing. I just realized that my old Mercury Redstone (last pre-BAR build) never had any clearcoat....just some sort of coating over the decals (can't remember the name) and its a little yellowed despite being in storage for many years.

My Dad used to do autobody work, so I remember some of the automotive paints. Strong stuff to be sure. Brings back a lot of memories

-Kitch


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Kitch

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I really should use the "Search" function more often :eek:
I found the answers to my questions in the "I believe in Future" thread.

Thanks again!

-Kitch

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BobH48

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Originally posted by Micromeister
I really hate to give bad news..but over time your White uncoated model will yellow anyway.
I'm not so sure about that.

Here is a picture of my Astron Starblazer that was painted over 30 years ago and the white still looks like it hasn't yellowed.

starblazer_1.jpg
 

wwattles

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Originally posted by BobH48

Here is a picture of my Astron Starblazer that was painted over 30 years ago and the white still looks like it hasn't yellowed.
Wow...that thing looks remarkably like the SquirrelWorks Space Ranger... or rather, the Space Ranger looks like that!

WW
 

BobH48

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Originally posted by wwattles
Wow...that thing looks remarkably like the SquirrelWorks Space Ranger... or rather, the Space Ranger looks like that!

WW
Yeah, I noticed that right away when I saw the Space Ranger.

Kinda makes me wanna git one. :D
 

Micromeister

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Originally posted by BobH48
I'm not so sure about that.

Here is a picture of my Astron Starblazer that was painted over 30 years ago and the white still looks like it hasn't yellowed.
Ya must be keeping it in a box Bob, the chemistry doesn't change any uv light source WILL cause the titanium solids in white paint to yellow. You've just been lucky so far. Nice looking old model tho;)
 

BobH48

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Originally posted by Micromeister
Ya must be keeping it in a box Bob, the chemistry doesn't change any uv light source WILL cause the titanium solids in white paint to yellow. You've just been lucky so far. Nice looking old model tho;)
Actually, it's been kept on a shelf in a closet most of the time so it hasn't been exposed to a lot of light.
 
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