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Need Battery Suggestion Please

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Woody's Workshop

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I have an Estes Pro Series II launch controller.
I was going to convert it so I could hook it up to a small 12v battery.
Instead, I would like to get a rechargeable battery that fits in the bay where the 4 D cells goes.
There is an alternative plug on the side.
Has anyone done this?
If so, what battery is used and where can I get one.
I assume it would be either NiCad or LiPo.
Thanks
 

Rex R

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if memory serves that is a 'JST' connector, either a 2s or a 3s Lipo pack, or Nimh cells would work.
Rex
 

Woody's Workshop

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My mistake.
I did not take the cover off, I just assumed.
Instructions say, JST plug and a bunch of other stuff about Mmah.
I'm no electronic engineer, so I'm guessing that means mili amps per hour?
I just don't want to get the wrong battery and not have it work, or fry the controller.
I'd prefer a NiCad battery. LiPo's are having a tendency to heat and flame up for some reason.

Correct.

And it does not normally have 4 D cells, it has 6 C cells.

http://www.estesrockets.com/rockets...ries/002240-pro-series-iitm-launch-controller
 

Micromeister

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My mistake.
I did not take the cover off, I just assumed.
Instructions say, JST plug and a bunch of other stuff about Mmah.
I'm no electronic engineer, so I'm guessing that means mili amps per hour?
I just don't want to get the wrong battery and not have it work, or fry the controller.
I'd prefer a NiCad battery. LiPo's are having a tendency to heat and flame up for some reason.
For more then 20 years now I've used a exteral drop cord connection and a 12v 7amp/hr Gel-Cell rechargable battery for just about all personal model rocket launch requirements with ALL Estes and Centuri Hand Held controllers. most were originally set up as 6v (4-AA) or 9volt (6-AA) or standard 9v battery. The only change to the controller is to replace the 6 or 9 volt continuity lamp with a 12V lamp or LED with requied resistor and adding the external drop cord (6ft of 16/2 lamp cord) with a par of 30amp battery clips. No electrical engineer degree required. Very simple change over. Over the years I'm adapted at least 50 different Estes, Centuri & Quest controllers that have been given away to club members and others getting started in the hobby.

I have not actually changed over a Controller to use an internal Li-poly package has they have their own set of Charging special precautions necessary to prevent fires. but I use 3.7v and 11.1v Li-poly power packs for all kinds of special purpose, RC and Night flying packages without problem. I'm sure if you find a package that fits the internal space available they will work just fine as long as your not wanting a lot of flights or making multiple Clustered launches with it.
 

shreadvector

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mAh = milliampere hour

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ampere-hour

If you get a LiPo with as much capacity as possible and it has the correct connector and it fits inside the compartment, you are good to go. LiPos only experience a thermal runaway if they are defective, punctured or charged incorrectly.


My mistake.
I did not take the cover off, I just assumed.
Instructions say, JST plug and a bunch of other stuff about Mmah.
I'm no electronic engineer, so I'm guessing that means mili amps per hour?
I just don't want to get the wrong battery and not have it work, or fry the controller.
I'd prefer a NiCad battery. LiPo's are having a tendency to heat and flame up for some reason.
 

tab28682

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mAh = milliampere hour

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ampere-hour

If you get a LiPo with as much capacity as possible and it has the correct connector and it fits inside the compartment, you are good to go. LiPos only experience a thermal runaway if they are defective, punctured or charged incorrectly.
Have to add crashed and crumpled (RC airplane crash) and shorted out to that list.
 

Woody's Workshop

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How about a suggestion on where to start looking for such a battery?
Or what to search for on Bing?
So far, I haven't gotten the help I need with this.
 

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