My first rail launch rig

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CurlyFat

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I thought I’d share this since I’m quite pleased with the outcome. Feedback, suggestions, and criticism is welcome. I’ve never seen in person (let alone used) a rail pad before, so I might’ve done something horribly wrong.

I wanted portable (easy to throw in a trunk), an option for slower launches (longer rail), and as cheap as reasonable.

I used three sections of 1010 3’ long, with slide-in connectors. Along with a cheap, but very beefy and strong speaker stand from Amazon. Can be set up and torn down in about a minute, and the pieces can be thrown easily into a trunk.

I could launch on rail sizes 3’ (lol), 6’, or 9’.

All in, I think I’m a bit under $100.

EDIT: I know there's no blast deflector yet. I still need to add one. :)

18609C83-80B4-46B4-B39B-9CE795A000AF.jpeg4F1C6E4E-A087-4579-B781-8C320B085A75.jpeg

Pepsi can for scale:
F9377736-24A5-48D7-961D-D2815D08674B.jpeg
 
Last edited:
In a moment of inspiration I added a 1/4” rod and a 3/16” rod to either side of the bottom section. Now it’s a “universal” launch system. It worked, so it’s a success!

View attachment 578187
Do the fins of a 4 fin rocket clear the rods? Or do you remove the rods when using the rail?
I’ve only launched one rocket from the rail, with 3 fins so far. If needed, the rods can come off by loosening one set screw on each one.
 
I am close to pulling the trigger on my own pad/launch controller build but am stuck on one thing: How do you attach the 1010 to the stand tube?

I really like this method:
stand to rail connection.jpg


But this caught my eye and I think it could be a faster and easier way of assembling and breaking down in the field, except without having one in-hand I'm having a difficult time figuring out how to attach the stud to the rail (I don't know if the stud is molded in or embedded/entrapped in some other way).

Amazon.com ADJ Products O-clamp 1.5 1.5-Inch Plastic o Clamp 360 2.JPG

I work in the video industry and sandbagging light stands is the standard method of stabilizing even top-heavy fixtures of all kinds. Empty sandbags are available on Ebay & Amazon for cheap, they don't work loose like pegs and they distribute the weight evenly on all surfaces for maximum stability and you don't need a mallet.

Studio-Stand-with-Sandbags-1n03ldd-300x200.jpg
 
You can use a carriage head bolt, or a hex head. Anything that will not pull out of the slot. Add a spacer if needed, drill hole and bolt it down.
 
You can use a carriage head bolt, or a hex head. Anything that will not pull out of the slot. Add a spacer if needed, drill hole and bolt it down.
Yes, that is what is used in the first example. In the case of the second example of the quick-release pipe clamp I have been trying to conceive how to do that. Possibly a threaded coupler if...IF the stud and the carriage bolt had the same threads that might work.

I'll probably go with the first example above.
 
put a jam nut on the bolt in the rail, then thread it into the coupler with a second jam nut against the coupler. Now it is tight in coupler and still has quick release.
 
I am close to pulling the trigger on my own pad/launch controller build but am stuck on one thing: How do you attach the 1010 to the stand tube?

I really like this method:
View attachment 578280


But this caught my eye and I think it could be a faster and easier way of assembling and breaking down in the field, except without having one in-hand I'm having a difficult time figuring out how to attach the stud to the rail (I don't know if the stud is molded in or embedded/entrapped in some other way).

View attachment 578281

I work in the video industry and sandbagging light stands is the standard method of stabilizing even top-heavy fixtures of all kinds. Empty sandbags are available on Ebay & Amazon for cheap, they don't work loose like pegs and they distribute the weight evenly on all surfaces for maximum stability and you don't need a mallet.

View attachment 578283

I just used the captive nut/bolt that came with the L brackets to attach to the pole. I plan to do something easier to take it on/off (currently have to float a small bolt on a hex wrench through the main tube.).

I love the idea of some sort of quick-latch!

Sandbags….that’s so simple and obvious, but never crossed my mind. That would provide plenty of stability for anything I throw into sky!
 
Good idea! I am building one out of a utility work light tripod stand using a heavy duty tilting speaker bracket. I would like to be able to use a rail but not sure how to install rail buttons on already built rockets.
 
This is a “lean it over to load” design.
That's what I figured. Sort of a PITA then with staking or sandbagging. Got to do what you got to do though. I built mine from the stand up. It takes 1/8th in. to 1/2 in. rods. That needed a welder and some steel stock to do though. It tilts down for loading and no bending for igniters or clips. I was wondering if a weldless design could be made out of 80/20 components. These are nice launchers but thought if a guys going to make one might as well make it as "comfortable" as possible.

Launcher- set on angle.jpg
 
That's what I figured. Sort of a PITA then with staking or sandbagging. Got to do what you got to do though. I built mine from the stand up. It takes 1/8th in. to 1/2 in. rods. That needed a welder and some steel stock to do though. It tilts down for loading and no bending for igniters or clips. I was wondering if a weldless design could be made out of 80/20 components. These are nice launchers but thought if a guys going to make one might as well make it as "comfortable" as possible.
Here's some pics of our club pads. They do have the tilt to load feature, just pull the upper pin and tilt the rail down. You might get some ideas from these.

They are not good pads if you want to move them a lot, the bases are one piece and only the rail is removable. The club puts them in the field in the fall, digs the dirt to tilt them slightly away from the flight line, and they stay there until spring. Then the rails are removed, stored, and the pad bases are stacked outside against the sea-container until they are needed again in the fall. The bases have been outside for 12 years now and the only thing we have replaced was the angled blast plate.

IMG_1289.JPG IMG_1290.JPG IMG_1292.JPG IMG_1293.JPG
 
I have a plate big enough that will tilt. I have to find a spring loaded pin and replace the bolt for a quick tilt. I’m using a heavy adjustable speaker bracket I found on Amazon for this that has welded joints. If I could figure out how to take a picture and post it in here, I have the bracket sitting here next to me. I plan on using a keyless drill chuck for any size rods
 
Here's some pics of our club pads. They do have the tilt to load feature, just pull the upper pin and tilt the rail down. You might get some ideas from these.

That has gotten some creative juices flowing! There must be an elegant, simple way to tilt a rail on a speaker-stand type pad. Sandbags are effective but heavy and having to move them with every launch would be a major PITA that I failed to consider. I have some ideas but have to flesh them out and see if they might work...
 
If I could figure out how to send you a pic I could show you the bracket I have. It cost me $35.00 plus 5 weeks shipping. After I bought it had shown up cheaper. Go figure. I was playing with the idea of a rail on it.
 
If I could figure out how to send you a pic I could show you the bracket I have. It cost me $35.00 plus 5 weeks shipping. After I bought it had shown up cheaper. Go figure. I was playing with the idea of a rail on it.
Just store the photo, start a post, click the Insert Image (Ctrl-P) icon and drag and drop the image onto the box that comes up. Easy peasy.
 
I'm good for pads, just thought I would post some food for thought, get some creative juices flowing like Cutis Enlow said. I see all these guys using these stands and just attaching a rail to the pole instead of using the height of the pole and starting from there up. Something that can be angled down to load and at a height that you don't have to bend over or get on knees to hook up. That speaker bracket looks like a good start. I know that 80/20 has a lot of goodies that pivot, swivel etc. Yes it will cost more but if using for the next 5 years+ well worth it.
 
Something I just thought of this....

When you have a pad where you don't have to bend over to install igniters, what do you do to turn on electronics when the av-bay is 4 - 6 ft above the bottom of the rocket? Ladder?
 
Something I just thought of this....

When you have a pad where you don't have to bend over to install igniters, what do you do to turn on electronics when the av-bay is 4 - 6 ft above the bottom of the rocket? Ladder?
Good thought, do have and need a ladder sometimes!!
 
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