My DIY 12V wireless launch controller

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jcowles3

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Got the part and led test worked as wanted... Anyone out there have suggestion to how I might add continuity light? Much lower volt is all I know. Also any thoughts on antenna for best range?
 

jus_rockets

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I would go with a buzzer instead of an led. And the antenna I am not quite sure,I just use one from and old wireless adapter
 

Zonie

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I would go with a buzzer instead of an led. And the antenna I am not quite sure,I just use one from and old wireless adapter
I Saw quite a few of these at GHS Sunday when I was LCO. I'm considering one too. Seems that as a club we (SSS) ought to get a "who's-using-what-code" list going and post it in the Yahoo Group and perhaps on a list inside one of the trailer doors.
 

bobkrech

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Several words of caution and advise.

You can't just use any buzzer or LED for checking continuity. To make a launcher that is safe for all igniters, you need to limit the maximum continuity current to 20 ma or less. If you are using a LED. you need to use a 560 ohm resistor or larger in series with the LED to limit the continuity check current to less than 20 ma. Piezo buzzers may also require a series resistor to limit the continuity check current, but you can find piezo buzzers that draw only 10-20 ma at 12 volts and they can be used as the series resistor for an LED providing both an audio and visual indication of continuity.

Bob
 

jcowles3

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Several words of caution and advise.

You can't just use any buzzer or LED for checking continuity. To make a launcher that is safe for all igniters, you need to limit the maximum continuity current to 20 ma or less. If you are using a LED. you need to use a 560 ohm resistor or larger in series with the LED to limit the continuity check current to less than 20 ma. Piezo buzzers may also require a series resistor to limit the continuity check current, but you can find piezo buzzers that draw only 10-20 ma at 12 volts and they can be used as the series resistor for an LED providing both an audio and visual indication of continuity.

Bob
Thanks for the help, I'll look for these
 

Zonie

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Perhaps using two Remote systems, and using a low current circuit at the pad to close a circuit on a second transmitter remote to latch a relay on the controller end indicating continuity where you can actually see or hear it.

Basically a transmitter fob at each end and a receiver relay board at each end for two way comms. The fob at the pad end is hacked to use a transistor or low current solid state relay wired across the button. I think I'll do something like this.

then there are always the cell phone ones, maybe they communicate both ways? Need to take a closer look at those.

Thanks for the help, I'll look for these
 

jcowles3

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I Saw quite a few of these at GHS Sunday when I was LCO. I'm considering one too. Seems that as a club we (SSS) ought to get a "who's-using-what-code" list going and post it in the Yahoo Group and perhaps on a list inside one of the trailer doors.
sure my working frequency:433.92MHZ and has a rolling code like a garage door opener...
 

jcowles3

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Thought I do an update... I choice to switch to a simple 4 pad because opening one circ then another posed problems, if one didn't open you have now way of knowing which one... thus the 4 pad system... and changed the remote to be momentary. Added the continuity light and my light didn't need a resistor but I showed where it would go in the diagram. Once my other 2 switches and banana clips come I'll button this up. I did test this with Estes, CTI and my home made igniters and everything works great.... Now the real test is with the kids!

12 volt  for 4 pads.jpgIMG_0827.jpgIMG_0828.jpg
 

jus_rockets

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Nice work looks like its coming out great! What voltage is your battery?
 

jcowles3

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12 volt, cheap non-rechargable... might upgrade later... thanks again for your help Jus_Rockets I needed it and it payed off... I'm joing to the park with a bunch of folks and this will help organize the launch... I'm sure I'll see you at Rainbow Valley some day - I'll thanks you again then...
 

jus_rockets

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12 volt, cheap non-rechargable... might upgrade later... thanks again for your help Jus_Rockets I needed it and it payed off... I'm joing to the park with a bunch of folks and this will help organize the launch... I'm sure I'll see you at Rainbow Valley some day - I'll thanks you again then...
I'm glad I could help you out, and hope to see you there too.
 

Louis Wu

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Not trying to resurrect this thread, but I’m working on a wireless launch controller and wanted to know: is this system still relevant, and why the use of a second 12V relay, instead of just the one on the Rx board?
 

tfish

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I built one of these systems using this tread.
My thinking is/was..without see the igniter leads..seemed posdible to have a real dead short at times. If the relay was to fry..easier to replace a 12v 30amp automotive one..then figure out what the circuit board one is..find one and how easy it was to replace.

Tony
 
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