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Alright, first design:
lrp-1 photo #1.png



lrp-1 photo #2.png

This one will eventually get built, maybe in 1 or 2 years, but guaranteed it will get done eventually. The reason for the name is that it will be my first scratchbuilt rocket when it's made. also, here 's a .ork file:
 

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mbeels

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I'm also curious to know what it stands for. Long Range Projectile? Lobster and Rutabega Pizza?

Nice looking design, by the way.
 
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Have you revealed what LRP actually stands for?
I'm also curious to know what it stands for. Long Range Projectile? Lobster and Rutabega Pizza?

Nice looking design, by the way.
Not yet, but I will here. LRP stands for [my last name] Rocketry Program.

Lobster and Rutabaga Pizza does sound interesting though. I will remember that. Also, thanks.
 

BABAR

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your last name is pronounced, “lerp”?
 

Nytrunner

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Ahahaha, the Neil-design threads continue to spread!

Looking forward to see what you're cooking up LRP
 

jqavins

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I'm also curious to know what it stands for. Long Range Projectile? Lobster and Rutabega Pizza?

Nice looking design, by the way.
Lazy Rotten Punks?
Little Red Pocket square?
Long Runny Proboscis?
Loud, Rude Pontification?
Loungin' 'Round Pantsless?
Let's Ride Ponies?

Yes, I know I'm too late, but I couldn't stand to waste it.
 
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I finally made another design. it's called Captain CATO, for the reason that it's designed to only fly on old, untrustworthy motors from the depth of ebay that will probably explode. Just a fun idea that I had. BT-60 fiberglass airframe, heavy duty 18mm x 70mm motor mount. ~110 ft on an A6-4 or A8-3, ~290 ft on a B6-4, ~630 ft on a C6-5. Also, just for fun, I tested it on a few 18mm D motors. Goes to ~1,200 ft which is far too high for my launch site. I can only launch to 700 or 800 ft there safely on a non-windy day with only a small chance of it getting caught in a tree.
CaptainCATO photo #1.png
CaptainCATO photo #2.png

Also, a .ork file for those interested:
 

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BABAR

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Like the art work!
 

Funkworks

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How do you get your graphics done? DIY or specialist?
 
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How do you get your graphics done? DIY or specialist?
Me? DIY. Sort of. I found a font on 1001 fonts that was suitably explode-y called crashlanding BB and put it into paint.net. Then I searched cartoon explosion on google images and copy/pasted it into paint.net between the two words. Done. Easy peasy.
 

neil_w

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What's more fun than finding the perfect font on 1001 fonts I ask you? Love that feeling! Of course, after looking through 50 pages of fonts you might want to kill yourself before you ever get to experience that feeling. :)

I think you picked a good one there.
 

jqavins

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I finally made another design. it's called Captain CATO, for the reason that it's designed to only fly on old, untrustworthy motors from the depth of ebay that will probably explode. Just a fun idea that I had. BT-60 fiberglass airframe, heavy duty 18mm x 70mm motor mount.
Add my vote for in favor of the graphics.

If it's meant to survive CATOs, why not a fiberglass MMT also?
 

mbeels

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Nice. And I agree, that's a good font choice! What fiberglass tube did you use?
 

BABAR

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Let's hope its performance doesn't reflect its title!
 

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In the first episode of the TV show the blind master meets the new student...
thus, the nickname was born.

I don't quite remember, but I thought he would play a game and try to sneak up on the blind teacher, but he would always hear his footsteps and would call him Grasshopper as a joke of how clearly he could hear him despite him trying to walk quietly. I could just be imagining that false memory and be totally wrong about that, but it would have been a good story.
 
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What's more fun than finding the perfect font on 1001 fonts I ask you? Love that feeling! Of course, after looking through 50 pages of fonts you might want to kill yourself before you ever get to experience that feeling. :)

I think you picked a good one there.
I only had to look through a few, as my search results weren't pulling up much. Thanks!

Add my vote for in favor of the graphics.

If it's meant to survive CATOs, why not a fiberglass MMT also?
Thank you. I couldn't find one for 18mm motors meaning I would have to piece together one from pieces from different sites which would be more expensive than just buying a cardboard and plywood one made by odd'l rockets from erockets for $4.99.

Nice. And I agree, that's a good font choice! What fiberglass tube did you use?
I used the one from mach1rocketry, but keep in mind this is only a concept that I probably won't ever use.

Let's hope its performance doesn't reflect its title!
Well, it probably would anyways, if I did actually make it, because I made it from the goofy idea I had to design a rocket to use old untrustworthy motors from shifty sites and the strange depths of eBay.
 

Funkworks

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Me? DIY. Sort of. I found a font on 1001 fonts that was suitably explode-y called crashlanding BB and put it into paint.net. Then I searched cartoon explosion on google images and copy/pasted it into paint.net between the two words. Done. Easy peasy.
Printing the graphic has been the hard part for me. For one I never bothered to get a good quality colour printer. Second, I haven’t yet found good quality blank water slide decals to print on. Third, my first project involved printing white on clear. White is not a friend when it comes to printing.

It all turned out to be too expensive and time consuming for my current tastes.
 

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For one I never bothered to get a good quality colour printer.
Remember that you can always get stuff printed at Kinko's or Staples or maybe even your local library. Yeah it costs money but it's less over the long run than paying for ink for your printer.

Second, I haven’t yet found good quality blank water slide decals to print on.
I've used two different papers so far (Experts Choice from Bare Metal Foil and Sunnyscopa which is cheaper and available on Amazon) and they've both been fine. Curious what problems you've had.

Third, my first project involved printing white on clear. White is not a friend when it comes to printing.
Now there ya got me. :)

Currently I'm using Sunnyscopa laser decals. I use the laser printer here at work but if I didn't have that I'd use Staples. Prepare the artwork, print, and apply. Preparing the artwork is always the hardest part. Unless you're trying to print light-on-dark, and then things do indeed get challenging.
 

jqavins

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Third, my first project involved printing white on clear. White is not a friend when it comes to printing.
I'd call up Stickershock. I've yet to use him myself, but from what I've read here he does great work at a reasonable price (not really cheap) and is super helpful; if he can do the white on clear he'll tell you, and if he can't but knows a way or another service that can he'll tell you that too.
 

neil_w

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I'd call up Stickershock. I've yet to use him myself, but from what I've read here he does great work at a reasonable price (not really cheap) and is super helpful; if he can do the white on clear he'll tell you, and if he can't but knows a way or another service that can he'll tell you that too.
Mark does vinyl, cut and/or printed. He doesn't do white on clear, but usually you can accomplish what you need to with cutting.

His prices are fair and he does great work but for small stuff it's a *lot* cheaper to print your own when you can.
 

BABAR

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Printing the graphic has been the hard part for me. For one I never bothered to get a good quality colour printer. Second, I haven’t yet found good quality blank water slide decals to print on. Third, my first project involved printing white on clear. White is not a friend when it comes to printing.
.
If it is LETTERING or NUMBERING white on clear, a couple of potential tricks.

Check out your local craft store for Letter and Number decals. You MAY be able to find what you want in WHITE, if so you're golden.

If NOT, however, you can paint a background of white in the area you want your letters or numbers. allow to dry completely plus one day. If you still smell paint, wait another day.

Apply the NON-white decals in appropriate position. Press them in really hard (put wax paper over them and burnish them in.)

Put a REPEAT coat of white over the decals to make sure the edges are sealed. Allow to dry as recommended before your color coat.

Do your color coat and again allow to dry completely.

Use a blade to pick up the edge of each decal and peel it off carefully.
 

neil_w

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I fear we have taken Co-Leader's thread on a detour here. Sorry for contributing to it. Back to the designs.
 
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