MX-774B HIROC (Apogee Components) Build Log

The Rocketry Forum

Help Support The Rocketry Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

JoeFilgas

The Mighty Saturn V Apollo XI
TRF Supporter
Joined
Jan 8, 2023
Messages
575
Reaction score
1,104
Location
McKinleyville, CA
My Apoogee Components MX-774B HIROC flying rocket build log: I decided to bust out a scale project after completing several non-scale model rockets of late. I first organized all the kit components and made sure all parts were accounted for which they were. Then it was on to cutting out all the basswood and balsa fin component parts which, as one can see, are many. The laser cutting on all the parts is simply impeccable and as usual with Apogee Components kits, the wood is high quality. These kits aren’t cheap by any means and you pay for the quality of the components and awesome, detailed instructions. Once all the fin parts had been extracted it was on to fin assembly. These are sandwiched fins with the basswood in the center and balsa on the outside. Each side contains two separate balsa plates and all is glued together with medium CA glue which is a nice change from the long dry wait time of wood glue. Next, using thin CA glue, the outer edges of all fins was saturated to make sure the balsa/basswood joints would not chip during the upcoming taper sanding. I then sanded the outer edges to level off the areas and to prepare to sand the first taper (root to edge). The root stays thick and tapers to 5/16” at the outer side edges. To facilitate this first linear taper I drew guidelines along the edges at 3/32” from each side. A note of caution to future builders of this kit. The lower balsa fin plates have multiple pieces cut out from them and they can be over handled when aligning them during the glueing process. You will have little time to position these pieces before it is too late. I had one plate the got pushed a bit too hard and the internal slots got misaligned and squished. Not to worry though as this is balsa so repairs were quite easy to make. The other three fins came out fine in this regard. That’s all for tonight. 🥰🚀🚀🚀
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2581.jpeg
    IMG_2581.jpeg
    2.2 MB · Views: 1
  • IMG_2582.jpeg
    IMG_2582.jpeg
    3.5 MB · Views: 1
  • IMG_2583.jpeg
    IMG_2583.jpeg
    2.6 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2584.jpeg
    IMG_2584.jpeg
    3 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2585.jpeg
    IMG_2585.jpeg
    3.7 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2586.jpeg
    IMG_2586.jpeg
    3 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2587.jpeg
    IMG_2587.jpeg
    2.2 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2588.jpeg
    IMG_2588.jpeg
    1.6 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2589.jpeg
    IMG_2589.jpeg
    1.9 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2590.jpeg
    IMG_2590.jpeg
    1.6 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2591.jpeg
    IMG_2591.jpeg
    2.1 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2592.jpeg
    IMG_2592.jpeg
    1.7 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2593.jpeg
    IMG_2593.jpeg
    2.4 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2594.jpeg
    IMG_2594.jpeg
    1.6 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2595.jpeg
    IMG_2595.jpeg
    1.7 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2596.jpeg
    IMG_2596.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 0
The HIROC build log: so I have to say this is the most complicated fin design I’ve built to date. It’s totally within my skill set, but they are one of the reasons this is a Level 5 kit. I started with sanding in the first linear taper from the root edge of the fin out to the tips following the guide lines I drew on them yesterday. Then the secondary aft taper was sanded in. Next I cleaned up all the edges before rounding them all to shape. Then I hand sanded the eight S Band antenna pieces and glued them into each fin side. Next the cardstock detail pieces were glued to each side of all fins. Next I used 1/16” sheet balsa to fill a few of the large gaps between the two balsa plates using thin CA and the sanding with 320 grit. Finally I used lightweight balsa filler for all the joint areas and around the scale details on all fins. I used filler on both sides of each fin which necessitated some clamps to hold them in a safe position to dry overnight. 🥰🚀🚀🚀
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2597.jpeg
    IMG_2597.jpeg
    2.7 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2598.jpeg
    IMG_2598.jpeg
    1.6 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2599.jpeg
    IMG_2599.jpeg
    2.7 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2600.jpeg
    IMG_2600.jpeg
    2.4 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2601.jpeg
    IMG_2601.jpeg
    2.3 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2604.jpeg
    IMG_2604.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2605.jpeg
    IMG_2605.jpeg
    2.2 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2606.jpeg
    IMG_2606.jpeg
    3 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2607.jpeg
    IMG_2607.jpeg
    1.3 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2609.jpeg
    IMG_2609.jpeg
    2.1 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2610.jpeg
    IMG_2610.jpeg
    2.5 MB · Views: 0
As with any scale model rocket kit I always read through the entire construction sequence first and sometimes more than once as it helps me to avoid mistakes and in this case some missing parts. When I was reading over the tunnel cover sequence last night it occurred to me that I didn’t recall seeing the balsa half rounds used for this purpose. I went back in my photos to check my unboxing pic of all the components and indeed they were not there either. I then checked the pic of the component list I had checked off and that item was not even listed there. Had it been I would have known right away. At any rate this post is to commend Apogee Components Customer Service team. I sent them an email regarding this around midnight last night and had a response first thing this morning. They apologized and said they will be sending them out to me ASAP! Now that’s customer service so THANK YOU APOGEE COMPONENTS! 🥰🚀🚀🚀
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2612.jpeg
    IMG_2612.jpeg
    212.9 KB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2583.jpeg
    IMG_2583.jpeg
    2.6 MB · Views: 0
HIROC build log: the fins were sanded down again after some lightweight filler work from yesterday. Then the 8 card stock fin detail pieces were cut out. I took one of them and used it for a template to pencil line on the fins where they would be positioned and glued. Tightbond 3 was sparingly used to adhere all eight to the fins. Once dried, I’ll be able to fiberglass and seal all the fins. I love these fins! 🥰🚀🚀🚀
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2613.jpeg
    IMG_2613.jpeg
    2.4 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2616.jpeg
    IMG_2616.jpeg
    3 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2617.jpeg
    IMG_2617.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2618.jpeg
    IMG_2618.jpeg
    1.9 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2619.jpeg
    IMG_2619.jpeg
    1.7 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2620.jpeg
    IMG_2620.jpeg
    3.1 MB · Views: 0
HIROC build log: got a little bit more done while the fins are drying. Both blind nuts for the rail buttons had their glue surface filed and cleaned with alcohol. The first was glued into the pre-drilled hole in the BT (very nice feature) from the inside. Then the boat tail cone already had the tip cut off so I didn’t have to do that. Using my Dremel cutoff wheel I removed the other section. Both ends were then sanded. The pre cut work on the slots wasn’t perfect, but nothing an Exacto blade and some sandpaper couldn’t overcome. One of the small round plywood pieces was then contour sanded with the boattail as the guide. The appropriate taper was put into the piece and then glued in place over the rail button hole on the exterior of the boattail. The inside area of the boattail around the rail button hole was then ruffed up with a rat tail file and some sand paper followed by an alcohol cleaning. The remaining blind nut was then glued in through the inside of the boat tail. 🥰🚀🚀🚀
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2628.jpeg
    IMG_2628.jpeg
    2.3 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2629.jpeg
    IMG_2629.jpeg
    1.9 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2630.jpeg
    IMG_2630.jpeg
    1.7 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2631.jpeg
    IMG_2631.jpeg
    1.3 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2632.jpeg
    IMG_2632.jpeg
    1 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2633.jpeg
    IMG_2633.jpeg
    1.4 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2634.jpeg
    IMG_2634.jpeg
    2.2 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2635.jpeg
    IMG_2635.jpeg
    1.6 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2636.jpeg
    IMG_2636.jpeg
    1.8 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2637.jpeg
    IMG_2637.jpeg
    2.7 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2638.jpeg
    IMG_2638.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2639.jpeg
    IMG_2639.jpeg
    1.3 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2640.jpeg
    IMG_2640.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2641.jpeg
    IMG_2641.jpeg
    1.6 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2642.jpeg
    IMG_2642.jpeg
    1.4 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2643.jpeg
    IMG_2643.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2644.jpeg
    IMG_2644.jpeg
    1.3 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2645.jpeg
    IMG_2645.jpeg
    1.4 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2646.jpeg
    IMG_2646.jpeg
    1.8 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2647.jpeg
    IMG_2647.jpeg
    1.3 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2648.jpeg
    IMG_2648.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 0
As with any scale model rocket kit I always read through the entire construction sequence first and sometimes more than once as it helps me to avoid mistakes and in this case some missing parts. When I was reading over the tunnel cover sequence last night it occurred to me that I didn’t recall seeing the balsa half rounds used for this purpose. I went back in my photos to check my unboxing pic of all the components and indeed they were not there either. I then checked the pic of the component list I had checked off and that item was not even listed there. Had it been I would have known right away. At any rate this post is to commend Apogee Components Customer Service team. I sent them an email regarding this around midnight last night and had a response first thing this morning. They apologized and said they will be sending them out to me ASAP! Now that’s customer service so THANK YOU APOGEE COMPONENTS! 🥰🚀🚀🚀

Same service for me. The difference was the shipping of these parts to Canada, which could not have been cheap for them (for the value of the parts). Brendan had the parts shipped and I received them today in an oversized box stuffed into spare body tubes for protection from breakage. It seems the first run of the kits were missing these parts.
 
Same service for me. The difference was the shipping of these parts to Canada, which could not have been cheap for them (for the value of the parts). Brendan had the parts shipped and I received them today in an oversized box stuffed into spare body tubes for protection from breakage. It seems the first run of the kits were missing these parts.
Interesting! I’m glad you got yours and I know mine will show up soon! 🥰🚀🚀🚀
 
APOGEE components HIROC build log: switching back and forth between RC Twin plane and rockets! All four fins were covered in 3/4oz fiberglass cloth. My procedure for this is I cut out one side of cloth at a time and spray the cloth with a light coat of Elmers Spray Adhesive then carefully place down on the fin. These took extra time and consideration due to the scale and non-flat features of these fins. I cut the cloth on each side of the card stock feature and removed the small strip. This allowed me to work the cloth down to the contours with a plastic putty spreader. When I was happy with how the fiberglass laid down I used thin CA glue with a micro applicator to spread the glue. I do smaller sections at a time wiping off any excess glue with a paper towel before proceeding. Once a side was completely glued I hit it with some CA kicker and then cut the excess cloth away and gave the edges a light clean up sand. This procedure was followed for all eight sides. All fins then received a nicer and more complete sanding with 320 grit. Finally all fins were glazed with automotive putty and set aside to dry. The fins are just about complete. 🥰🚀🚀🚀
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2670.jpeg
    IMG_2670.jpeg
    2.5 MB · Views: 1
  • IMG_2671.jpeg
    IMG_2671.jpeg
    1.9 MB · Views: 1
  • IMG_2672.jpeg
    IMG_2672.jpeg
    1.9 MB · Views: 0
I've never glassed anything for a rocket ... did I read it correctly that you put the cloth on dry and then used super glue in place of the usual epoxy? Have you done that before and does it work? Did you have to fully saturate the cloth?

That seems so much easier than how I just assumed one used fiberglass parts of a rocket.
 
I've never glassed anything for a rocket ... did I read it correctly that you put the cloth on dry and then used super glue in place of the usual epoxy? Have you done that before and does it work? Did you have to fully saturate the cloth?

That seems so much easier than how I just assumed one used fiberglass parts of a rocket.
It’s incredibly easy and fast too! I’ve used this procedure on many rockets and model RC aircraft as well. I spray one side of the fiberglass cloth with a light mist coat of Elmers Spray Adhesive. You don’t need very much only enough to tack the cloth down to the surface. I carefully smooth out the cloth so there are minimal bumps or wrinkles although minor ones can be taken out with sanding. The cloth is completely saturated with thin CA and the glue goes a long ways. I always hold the piece slightly at an angle to take advantage of gravity. I’ll do a patch and quickly wipe off any that doesn’t soak in with a paper towel. I do one side at a time, but I completed all 4 of these today in a couple of hours. The CA glue will “help” to fill the weave, but it will take additional sanding and fill work. I use automotive glazing putty to do this. For these applications I use 3/4oz fiberglass cloth. When using heavier glass cloth and epoxy for high power builds I don’t use the spray adhesive as it is not necessary. 🥰🚀🚀🚀
 
APOGEE components HIROC build log: switching back and forth between RC Twin plane and rockets! All four fins were covered in 3/4oz fiberglass cloth. My procedure for this is I cut out one side of cloth at a time and spray the cloth with a light coat of Elmers Spray Adhesive then carefully place down on the fin. These took extra time and consideration due to the scale and non-flat features of these fins. I cut the cloth on each side of the card stock feature and removed the small strip. This allowed me to work the cloth down to the contours with a plastic putty spreader. When I was happy with how the fiberglass laid down I used thin CA glue with a micro applicator to spread the glue. I do smaller sections at a time wiping off any excess glue with a paper towel before proceeding. Once a side was completely glued I hit it with some CA kicker and then cut the excess cloth away and gave the edges a light clean up sand. This procedure was followed for all eight sides. All fins then received a nicer and more complete sanding with 320 grit. Finally all fins were glazed with automotive putty and set aside to dry. The fins are just about complete. 🥰🚀🚀🚀

Interesting. What is the final weight of the set of fins? I just used wood filler on mine today but still have to sand them. (I discovered I ran out of filler and had to get another tub!).
 
It’s incredibly easy and fast too! I’ve used this procedure on many rockets and model RC aircraft as well. I spray one side of the fiberglass cloth with a light mist coat of Elmers Spray Adhesive. You don’t need very much only enough to tack the cloth down to the surface. I carefully smooth out the cloth so there are minimal bumps or wrinkles although minor ones can be taken out with sanding. The cloth is completely saturated with thin CA and the glue goes a long ways. I always hold the piece slightly at an angle to take advantage of gravity. I’ll do a patch and quickly wipe off any that doesn’t soak in with a paper towel. I do one side at a time, but I completed all 4 of these today in a couple of hours. The CA glue will “help” to fill the weave, but it will take additional sanding and fill work. I use automotive glazing putty to do this. For these applications I use 3/4oz fiberglass cloth. When using heavier glass cloth and epoxy for high power builds I don’t use the spray adhesive as it is not necessary. 🥰🚀🚀🚀

That's so awesome thank you for detailing this step, I'll be adding it to the ol memory bank for whenever I need to glass some fins ... like maybe on the Optima/Shadow clone I keep inching up the build list.
 
HIROC build log: got just a little bit more done tonight. I removed the two lower centering rings from the card stock and trimmed the edges clean. Before gluing the two together with wood glue I aligned the them and penciled in the outline of the top ring to the bottom in order to show me where to apply the glue. These were then glued together in alignment and weighted for a few minutes. Next I marked the motor mount tube in the three places as instructed. My Estes tube cutter guides did not have the correct size so I made a straight line ring out of scrap card stock to mark the locations all the way around the tube. The combined lower centering ring was then glued in place on the lower end of the MMT and set aside to dry. In prep for tomorrow’s building I cut loose and trimmed clean the four simulated engine nozzles. 🥰🚀🚀🚀
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2673.jpeg
    IMG_2673.jpeg
    1.8 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2674.jpeg
    IMG_2674.jpeg
    1.4 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2675.jpeg
    IMG_2675.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2676.jpeg
    IMG_2676.jpeg
    1.8 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2677.jpeg
    IMG_2677.jpeg
    1.8 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2678.jpeg
    IMG_2678.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2679.jpeg
    IMG_2679.jpeg
    1.4 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2680.jpeg
    IMG_2680.jpeg
    1.9 MB · Views: 0
My HIROC scale flying model rocket build log: today I started by fitting the MMT lower centering ring just below the bottom of the fin slots. It took a bit of sanding to get the fit right. Then the simulated 4 nozzles were glued into the base of the bottom centering ring and set aside to dry. All four fins were the sanded from the glazing putty treatment. These are now complete and ready to install into the fin can. Next the rectangular motor retainer standoff mount from card stock was glued into position adjacent to the hole in the lower CR. The middle card stock centering ring was then glued into position and filleted on the MMT. The shock cord was then tied around the MMT and the small 1/4” plywood reinforcement ring was glued into position. As explained it’s a really loose fit so use plenty of glue here. Next I quickly ran the shock cord through the previously flattened plywood centering ring and glued it into place against the 1/4” small ply ring I had just installed. The flat on the top ply CR was aligned with the motor retention hole on the bottom of the MMT. The shock cord was pulled up against the back of the small ply ring followed by a generous glue fillet to the small ply ring side of this assembly. I’ll fillet the other side after this has set. 🥰🚀🚀🚀
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2719.jpeg
    IMG_2719.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2720.jpeg
    IMG_2720.jpeg
    1.2 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2721.jpeg
    IMG_2721.jpeg
    1.2 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2722.jpeg
    IMG_2722.jpeg
    1.3 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2723.jpeg
    IMG_2723.jpeg
    2.3 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2724.jpeg
    IMG_2724.jpeg
    1.4 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2725.jpeg
    IMG_2725.jpeg
    1.4 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2726.jpeg
    IMG_2726.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 1
  • IMG_2727.jpeg
    IMG_2727.jpeg
    1.2 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2728.jpeg
    IMG_2728.jpeg
    2.2 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2729.jpeg
    IMG_2729.jpeg
    2 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2730.jpeg
    IMG_2730.jpeg
    2.1 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2731.jpeg
    IMG_2731.jpeg
    1.2 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2733.jpeg
    IMG_2733.jpeg
    1.3 MB · Views: 0
Last edited:
HIROC build log: got a little bit more done while the fins are drying. Both blind nuts for the rail buttons had their glue surface filed and cleaned with alcohol. The first was glued into the pre-drilled hole in the BT (very nice feature) from the inside. Then the boat tail cone already had the tip cut off so I didn’t have to do that. Using my Dremel cutoff wheel I removed the other section. Both ends were then sanded. The pre cut work on the slots wasn’t perfect, but nothing an Exacto blade and some sandpaper couldn’t overcome. One of the small round plywood pieces was then contour sanded with the boattail as the guide. The appropriate taper was put into the piece and then glued in place over the rail button hole on the exterior of the boattail. The inside area of the boattail around the rail button hole was then ruffed up with a rat tail file and some sand paper followed by an alcohol cleaning. The remaining blind nut was then glued in through the inside of the boat tail. 🥰🚀🚀🚀

I discovered that it is slightly easier to install the weld nut to the boat tail BEFORE installing the stand-off. The stand-off got glued on slightly off centre of the hole and I cracked it while installing the weld nut. Do it the other way around to Apogee's instructions. :clapping:

I also assembled the motor mount as well but before I glued it to the boat tail, I noticed in the paint scheme that the faux motor nozzles are painted steel silver so I decided to spray paint them now instead of hand painting them later. The primer coat is on now and the colour coat tomorrow.

I also noticed a goofy thing in the factory cut on the boat tail. It appears that there were 3 plunge cuts made with the middle one offset just a hair off. I brought out the file to clean this up.
20240531_195136.jpg
 
Last edited:
I discovered that it is slightly easier to install the weld nut to the boat tail BEFORE installing the stand-off. The stand-off got glued on slightly off centre of the hole and I cracked it while installing the weld nut. Do it the other way around to Apogee's instructions. :clapping:

I also assembled the motor mount as well but before I glued it to the boat tail, I noticed in the paint scheme that the faux motor nozzles are painted steel silver so I decided to spray paint them now instead of hand painting them later. The primer coat is on now and the colour coat tomorrow.

I also noticed a goofy thing in the factory cut on the boat tail. It appears that there were 3 plunge cuts made with the middle one offset just a hair off. I brought out the file to clean this up.
View attachment 650644
I guess I lucked out with the stand off alignment as the t nut went on through fairly easily. I didn’t work on it today, but I was wondering if it wouldn’t be easier to paint the silver on the nozzles prior to installation. Now that you said that I think I will do the same. Oh and my boattail had the same wonky offset. I ran a file through mine. On the fins the glass and glue certainly adds some weight. I’m not that worried about it. I just like how I get my finishes to turn out using this method. 🥰🚀🚀🚀
 
I guess I lucked out with the stand off alignment as the t nut went on through fairly easily. I didn’t work on it today, but I was wondering if it wouldn’t be easier to paint the silver on the nozzles prior to installation. Now that you said that I think I will do the same. Oh and my boattail had the same wonky offset. I ran a file through mine. On the fins the glass and glue certainly adds some weight. I’m not that worried about it. I just like how I get my finishes to turn out using this method. 🥰🚀🚀🚀
My apologies for posting my progress in your build thread, BTW. That was a bit rude of me. I'm going to post some images, build tips, etc on my un-boxing thread instead. :)
 
Just a quick post tonight. Thank you Apogee Components for sending the two balsa half rounds missing from the kit. They arrived today in a large box and encased in a BT20 slotted tube with BT5 tips on each end. I consider the packaging a useable bonus on future projects! 🥰🚀🚀🚀
 
My Apogee MX-774B HIROC rocket build log: today the simulated 4 engine nozzles and housing area was filled with glazing putty, let dry and sanded down with 220 grit sandpaper. After sanding and cleaning, the area was masked off and then shot with my favorite automotive sandable grey primer. This took two rounds of fast drying primer with a 220 grit sanding in between. I did a quick wet sand with 400 grit then cleaned for painting color next. A metallic nickel was used to paint this. Masking was later removed and I brush painted, with black, the inside of the silver nozzles and the corresponding outer surface of the MMT. I also brush painted the exterior portions of the MMT between the nozzles. Next I epoxied the motor retainer bolt through the lower CR and onto the standoff previously glued to the MMT. Finally, I did a little sanding on the fins and fit them to the boat tail. Just for fun I went ahead and threw the cardboard fin guide on and inserted all four fins, the BT and nose cone to get a look at what she’ll eventually look like finished. This is a really cool rocket and I’m glad I bought it! 🥰🚀🚀🚀
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2767.jpeg
    IMG_2767.jpeg
    1.4 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2790.jpeg
    IMG_2790.jpeg
    1.3 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2791.jpeg
    IMG_2791.jpeg
    2 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2792.jpeg
    IMG_2792.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2793.jpeg
    IMG_2793.jpeg
    1.3 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2799.jpeg
    IMG_2799.jpeg
    1.4 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2800.jpeg
    IMG_2800.jpeg
    1.4 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2801.jpeg
    IMG_2801.jpeg
    1.3 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2802.jpeg
    IMG_2802.jpeg
    1.3 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2803.jpeg
    IMG_2803.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2804.jpeg
    IMG_2804.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 0
My Apogee Components, Inc MX-774B HIROC rocket build log: today with the motor mount complete and cured I test fit all the fin tabs to make sure we had a clean fit. I really appreciate the thought that went into these tabs with the corners cut off allowing room to go around the internal glue fillets on the centering rings…nice touch Apogee! Then I test fit the motor mount inside the boat tail and went through a dry gluing process i.e. various witness marks in alignment, launch lugs in alignment etc. The MMT was removed and set aside. Although the directions didn’t call to do this I feel it’s just good and safe modeling practice to roughen up the inside of the boat tail where the CRs will be glued with rough sandpaper to give the epoxy extra grip. I rinsed the boat tail, dried and then wiped the inside with alcohol. Using BSI 30 minute epoxy glue was applied to the areas just above and below the fin slots and the MMT was carefully lowered into the boat tail, aligned and set in permanently. The BT was then carefully aligned and lowered over the remaining exposed centering ring and down onto the Boat tail. The BT’s only job for this step is to hold the top of the MMT perfectly in alignment. The BT is NOT glued on during this step. The assembly has been set aside to dry. I’m probably going to do an epoxy fillet on the top of the middle CR before the BT gets glued on. 🥰🚀🚀🚀
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2807.jpeg
    IMG_2807.jpeg
    1.7 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2808.jpeg
    IMG_2808.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2809.jpeg
    IMG_2809.jpeg
    1.4 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2810.jpeg
    IMG_2810.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2847.jpeg
    IMG_2847.jpeg
    2 MB · Views: 0
My Apogee Components, Inc MX-774B rocket build log: decided to move further forward tonight and epoxied the fins in. I brought the big guns in for this one though. I’m using West Systems Epoxy Resin and 206 slow hardener with 406 colloidal structural filler. This is my go to for this type of application. Once all four fins were glued and placed the cardboard fin alignment guide was added to hold them in the correct position while the epoxy cures. I added masking tape on three levels to press the fins into the body tube! Off to cure overnight! 🥰🚀🚀🚀
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2865.jpeg
    IMG_2865.jpeg
    3 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2866.jpeg
    IMG_2866.jpeg
    1.4 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2867.jpeg
    IMG_2867.jpeg
    1.8 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2868.jpeg
    IMG_2868.jpeg
    1.4 MB · Views: 0
Apogee Components, Inc MX-774B HIROC rocket build log: This morning I removed the tape and fin guide from last night’s epoxy session and did some sanding cleanup on the fins and boat tail. I then wiped it all down with alcohol. I took a side trip down south to Fortuna to pick up this nifty yellow 3D printed tool for a later step in this build. When I got back I masked off the fin can in preparation for epoxy fillets. I used the West Systems 105 epoxy resin, 206 slow hardener and the 406 colloidal filler. The mixture was first applied to any gaps then the remainder was distributed evenly between the fins. I used a small socket in a small tub of alcohol to shape the fillet. The tape was then immediately removed. Finally just with an alcohol wetted finger I gently flared in each fillet. A quick cleanup of the fin can was done with a paper towel and alcohol to remove those sticky fingerprints I always seem to get on my projects without fail. 😎🚀🚀🚀
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2871.jpeg
    IMG_2871.jpeg
    1.8 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2873.jpeg
    IMG_2873.jpeg
    1.6 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2874.jpeg
    IMG_2874.jpeg
    1.8 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2876.jpeg
    IMG_2876.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2877.jpeg
    IMG_2877.jpeg
    1.6 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2875.jpeg
    IMG_2875.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 0
HIROC build log: the fin fillets formed enough to handle so I just epoxied the BT to the fin can. I used BSI 30 minute epoxy, but to keep things neat I added some West Systems 406 colloidal filler to the epoxy. It now stays where you put it with no runs.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2890.jpeg
    IMG_2890.jpeg
    1.7 MB · Views: 0
Back
Top