No worries..One thing I really miss about Seattle is KEXP, and John Richards in particular...
Sorry for off topic @lakeroadster - excellent thread!
No worries..One thing I really miss about Seattle is KEXP, and John Richards in particular...
Sorry for off topic @lakeroadster - excellent thread!
Boing, Boing.......And thus begins the afternoon's earworm.
"For the benefit of Mr Kite, there will be a show tonight on trampoline..."
Building Apogee 1/70 scale Saturn V. I would like to display it. I have looked at many towers...non I like. Is there a proper scale one out there?
So, er uh, I've been lurking this one for a while but I noticed a dip in altitude prediction on the previous page due to a base drag hack problem. Which is more an aerodynamic issue (i.e. when you're at speed). How're you doing with speed off the rail? I think it's really cool to have lots of fire and a dramatic, slower than usual ascent and not get lost in the stratosphere, but are you needing a longer, sturdier rod/rail? My brother-in-law's V2 appears to suffer from that problem.
Speed off the rail is still fine, see simulation below. Even if one of the C11 motors doesn't fire, it's still above 30 mph. I use a clip whip that has a leads for each e-match in each motor and have yet to have a misfire on a 24mm BP motor when launching clusters.
As to the previous "dip in altitude"... I fat fingered the drag override and applied it to the 4th stage, and not the 1st stage. Once I fixed that, the drag of the 1st stage drops off quickly at staging and the apogee is about 980 feet, that's optimistic IMO.
Dealing with base drag on this multi stage rocket is messy and appears to be beyond the capability of Open Rocket. Think about it. Each stage of this rocket design experiences base drag. But that base drag for each of those upper stages doesn't occur until each staging event happens. So to be accurate, the base drag cone needs to be added at staging, but not before staging occurs.
Well, I'm glad to hear that your speed is ok off the rail... and I understand the base drag thing, and why it might be past the capabilities of Open Rocket (though TBH, I haven't gotten into any of the simulators yet). I like the analytical/engineering effort you've put into this, combined with some intersting innovations - makes me a bit jealous! I simply have to find more time for this... But yeah, figure at staging each remaining part of the rocket has both an initial velocity and instantaneous base drag - but does OR differentiate between engine firing vs. coast? It's stuff like this that I really want to sink my teeth into.
Best to you, hope the painting goes well, and hey - who needs a stinking interestage when you have 4 stages... unless... unless... you simply can't unsee it!![]()
Follow This Link To Post 325Some observations: You were considering having the tower pop off at landing; Why not fly it off the top of the stack like the original, after it clears the Launch rod (tower)?
If you need to feed a fuse thru something flammable, you can run it thru a piece of brass tube from HL.
That's about a 2.3% difference. With the variation one sees in engine performance, and the other miscellaneous limitations simulation accuracy, that's way down in the noise.Once I fixed that, the drag of the 1st stage drops off quickly at staging and the apogee is about 980 feet, that's optimistic IMO...
If I add base drag cones to all the stages of the simulation, and leave them in place. The apogee is 958 feet, that's conservative...
I'm soooooo looking forward to seeing it with the tape off!!!!!Painting The Roll Pattern
A bit chilly here today... kind of pushing the paint temperature envelope. Since I use flat paint I seem to have success with painting as long as the temp. is above 40 F. It was also windy today... so I spray painted beside our wood shed, using it as a wind break.
I started with a light coat of flat white since the base coat is flat white. I focus on painting the edges of the masking tape. This typically helps seal the edges of the tape and if there is any seepage under the tape, it's the same color as the base coat.
After the white has about 10 minutes of drying time I spray the flat black. I did 2 coats, waiting about 10 minutes between coats.
I then moved the rocket over next to our barn. The sun is pretty intense this year and the barn siding gets warm to the touch from the sun. This works pretty well to keep the paint warm while it's curing.
I'll wait a couple hours, then move the rocket into our garage and remove the masking tape. I always like to do that the same day as I paint.
The rocket looks really awesome in black.... kind of stealthy. Just what you don't want for a 4 stage rocket.
That's about a 2.3% difference. With the variation one sees in engine performance, and the other miscellaneous limitations simulation accuracy, that's way down in the noise.
Oh, deer...
That must be Clarice looking for Rudolph at Santa's workshop. Springtime at the North Pole. The paint smells so sweet.
Overall, how does the green tape compare to the blue?Roll Pattern... Engage!
Removed the "3M Automotive Performance Masking Tape"....
Overall, how does the green tape compare to the blue?
Service Module Wrap
I searched here on TRF and found a nice Saturn 1B Service Module wrap, thanks to member @Saluki. I massaged the proportions to fit my quazi 1/132 scale Saturn V.
Using watered down Gorilla Wood Glue: 2 parts glue - 1 part water, I used a small brush to coat the back of the wrap and then placed it on the Service Module. Once the rocket is clear coated it should be go for throttle up.
Try this after you apply blue tape run a small amount of caulk along the tape edge let dry amazing results clear line when removedHand Painting Day 01: Flat White & Flat Olive Drab
I sprayed some of the flat Rusto white into a cup and used that and a small detail paint brush to touch up all the flat black that had bled under the masking tape. You can see the "before photo's above, see post #530".
Next I used some flat Split Pea (olive drab) Testor's to paint the bottom of the 1st stage.
So far so good. I need to pick up some silver Testor's @ the local hobby shop to hand paint the fins with... and then spray some clear in preparation for decals.
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That's a new one on me. I've seen Tim Van Milligan use some sort of clear sealer.Try this after you apply blue tape run a small amount of caulk along the tape edge let dry amazing results clear line when removed
Any paintable type from Dap.That's a new one on me. I've seen Tim Van Milligan use some sort of clear sealer.
What kind of caulk are you suggesting?
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