Mounting a flanged aeropack retainer - to glue or not to glue?

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soopirV

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Hi all- just preparing to install my first flanged (bolt-on) aeropack to go with my 3" Mac Performance Rayzor, since I wanted to take advantage of the thrust plate in the kit. I've got my holes all marked and drilled, and while the instructions don't say to, I'm wondering if people typically add some epoxy before threading in the included inserts? The 7/32" bit didn't leave a lot of web around the outside of the CR, since it's only a 3" rocket, and I figured some epoxy would help shore it up. Not sure if there are any negative consequences to this (not using enough to add any rear-end weight, of course). Thoughts?
 

rharshberger

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Hi all- just preparing to install my first flanged (bolt-on) aeropack to go with my 3" Mac Performance Rayzor, since I wanted to take advantage of the thrust plate in the kit. I've got my holes all marked and drilled, and while the instructions don't say to, I'm wondering if people typically add some epoxy before threading in the included inserts? The 7/32" bit didn't leave a lot of web around the outside of the CR, since it's only a 3" rocket, and I figured some epoxy would help shore it up. Not sure if there are any negative consequences to this (not using enough to add any rear-end weight, of course). Thoughts?
Usually with threaded inserts I wax the external threads so they thread more easily into the wood, adding epoxy just increases the chances you get some in the inner threads.
 

soopirV

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Usually with threaded inserts I wax the external threads so they thread more easily into the wood, adding epoxy just increases the chances you get some in the inner threads.
Thanks! I have taken to melting some crayon into the threads of tee-nuts when using them for Kaplow-style clip retention, to prevent epoxy from fouling the threads, but I never would've thought to wax the external threads to reduce friction (and therefore splitting?). I'm assuming that does nothing to encourage them to work their way out in any fashion?
 

rharshberger

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Thanks! I have taken to melting some crayon into the threads of tee-nuts when using them for Kaplow-style clip retention, to prevent epoxy from fouling the threads, but I never would've thought to wax the external threads to reduce friction (and therefore splitting?). I'm assuming that does nothing to encourage them to work their way out in any fashion?
I personally have yet to have a threaded wood insert unthread, that being said make sure the hole for the insert is the same diameter as minor diameter of the the external threads (cylinder diameter of the insert), that way the threads cut as they go in but little (preferably none) expansion occurs.

FYI modeling clay works great for plugging holes you don't want to get epoxy in, its easy to remove afterwards. I use the type that is kind of oily and doesn't harden, I can't recall the brand since I have been using the same package for gunsmithing (bedding actions) and rocketry for nearly 20 years since a little goes a long way.
 
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