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I'm not sure this is the best category to put this and I'm sure it will annoy someone because I didn't just continue on one of my existing threads, but here goes.
I just ordered myself a really nice drill press. Something I should have bought a very long time ago. I can't tell you how many times, in my adult life, I wished I'd had a drill press, but was too cheap to buy one.
I probably bought a better one than I need, but one of my life lessons is that if I try and save money, by buying less than I want, it ends up costing me more in the long run.
Unbelievably, I've never owned a rotary tool, like a Dremel. I ordered one of those too. Not a Dremel, but it looks good and was half the price.
I didn't buy the lathe I was considering. I'm not sure I'm ready to go down that rabbit hole. I would have used it for making nosecones, transitions and boat tails. Getting the base diameter and shoulder diameter exact would be critical, and that worries me. Nose cones would present additional problems.
What I'd like to do, and this is where I need your help, is take existing parts form Balsa Machining, etc. and modify them.
What I would like to be able to do is shorten a part and reshape it.
In order to do that, I need to be able to spin the part while holding sandpaper to it.
I have not idea how I'd do that.
If there is an alternate method, other than spinning the balsa part, I'd like to hear it.
I'm picturing doing things like taking an ogive nosecone and turning it into an elliptical, or taking a super long V2 boat tail and shortening it by half.
 
hehehe.. you need to build a few ship models! :D

You got the drill press. Perfect. Now, you need to get a center-finder tool (or work out the geometry to get the center point of a circle..)
  1. Mark the center on the back-side of the NC.
  2. Drill a hole in the NC at this mark, parallel to the axis of the NC.. 1/4", 1/2" your call. (keep in mind the limit of the chuck)
  3. Glue in a 1/4" or 1/2" wooden dowel. Leave about an 1" sticking out.
  4. stick this end in teh drill press.
  5. turn on drill press, and go for eh lowest speed setting.
  6. as the NC spins, touch a sanding block to it. (or a file, a rasp, your lower jaw..)
  7. presto! a crude yet functional vertical lathe! shape away!
  8. then just cut off the 'tang' (the bit of dowel) this also allows you a 'hard point' to attach your screw-eye for the shock cord..


ship builders do this to taper the masts & yard-arms of their models.

https://www.micromark.com/Center-Sq...MIoKjKht-Z7QIVgeKzCh1HAgENEAYYASABEgKkkvD_BwE
 
I'm not sure this is the best category to put this and I'm sure it will annoy someone because I didn't just continue on one of my existing threads, but here goes.
I just ordered myself a really nice drill press. Something I should have bought a very long time ago. I can't tell you how many times, in my adult life, I wished I'd had a drill press, but was too cheap to buy one.
I probably bought a better one than I need, but one of my life lessons is that if I try and save money, by buying less than I want, it ends up costing me more in the long run.
Unbelievably, I've never owned a rotary tool, like a Dremel. I ordered one of those too. Not a Dremel, but it looks good and was half the price.
I didn't buy the lathe I was considering. I'm not sure I'm ready to go down that rabbit hole. I would have used it for making nosecones, transitions and boat tails. Getting the base diameter and shoulder diameter exact would be critical, and that worries me. Nose cones would present additional problems.
What I'd like to do, and this is where I need your help, is take existing parts form Balsa Machining, etc. and modify them.
What I would like to be able to do is shorten a part and reshape it.
In order to do that, I need to be able to spin the part while holding sandpaper to it.
I have not idea how I'd do that.
If there is an alternate method, other than spinning the balsa part, I'd like to hear it.
I'm picturing doing things like taking an ogive nosecone and turning it into an elliptical, or taking a super long V2 boat tail and shortening it by half.
It would be necessary to get the axis of rotation central to the shoulder/rest of the nose cone. Rather tough with something soft like balsa. Maybe someone here has a better idea, but given this situation---and since a drill press has entered your abode---I'd start with a balsa block and make my own from scratch.
 
hehehe.. you need to build a few ship models! :D

You got the drill press. Perfect. Now, you need to get a center-finder tool (or work out the geometry to get the center point of a circle..)
  1. Mark the center on the back-side of the NC.
  2. Drill a hole in the NC at this mark, parallel to the axis of the NC.. 1/4", 1/2" your call. (keep in mind the limit of the chuck)
  3. Glue in a 1/4" or 1/2" wooden dowel. Leave about an 1" sticking out.
  4. stick this end in teh drill press.
  5. turn on drill press, and go for eh lowest speed setting.
  6. as the NC spins, touch a sanding block to it. (or a file, a rasp, your lower jaw..)
  7. presto! a crude yet functional vertical lathe! shape away!
  8. then just cut off the 'tang' (the bit of dowel) this also allows you a 'hard point' to attach your screw-eye for the shock cord..


ship builders do this to taper the masts & yard-arms of their models.

https://www.micromark.com/Center-Sq...MIoKjKht-Z7QIVgeKzCh1HAgENEAYYASABEgKkkvD_BwE
This method had occurred to me. Some nose cones from Balsa Machining already have a hole drilled in them and a wood dowel comes with them.
I'll try this before buying a lathe.
 
Yesterday, I also ordered a band saw. Not terribly expensive and I thought it would come in handy for cutting the shoulder off nosecones and transitions.
A band saw is another tool that I probably should have bought years ago.
I was going to order a bench sander, but the one I wanted was out of stock, so they are supposed to notify me when it's back in stock.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/WEN-4-3...sc-Sander-with-Cast-Iron-Base-6502T/307346676Not cheap, but I have a smaller version and it is something I've used fairly often. It is good for taking just a smidge off of something or cleaning up after the band saw.
I did a search for videos on lathes and I see that what I'd need is a chuck.
I have two concerns, the biggest one being the cost. I can get a lathe as cheap as $165, but I'd probably get a step up rom that and that costs about a hundred bucks more. Then the chucks aren't cheap, In fact I'd say they are down right expensive, and I'm not sure I can get one as small as I need. The other concern is that balsa is very soft. Seems like clamping it with enough force to hold it securely would crush it. Birch? Poplar?
Then, I'd like to get a 3D printer. And a GlowForge would be nice.
I'm not rich. I can't afford all this stuff, especially when I'm not sure what the future of launching in Colorado is going to be.
I've got to figure out what tools would be the most cost effective for reaching my goals.
 
I did a search for videos on lathes and I see that what I'd need is a chuck.
I have two concerns, the biggest one being the cost. I can get a lathe as cheap as $165, but I'd probably get a step up rom that and that costs about a hundred bucks more. Then the chucks aren't cheap, In fact I'd say they are down right expensive, and I'm not sure I can get one as small as I need. The other concern is that balsa is very soft. Seems like clamping it with enough force to hold it securely would crush it. Birch? Poplar?
Search Amazon and ebay for 4-jaw wood lathe chuck. It takes longer and is more tedious to use a 4-jaw independent chuck than a universal (self-centering) chuck, but the 4-jaw can be much more accurate. Be sure that the thread on the chuck matches the thread on the lathe's spindle. 3/4-16 and 1"-8 tpi are common. I've seen 6" chucks on sale for about$60.
1606227768967.png
One way to avoid crushing soft wood---assuming you're starting with a round piece--- is to cut a short piece of aluminum or copper tubing that's nearly the same i.d. as the balsa o.d. Cut a slot down the side of the tube (widening it as needed), slide the balsa into the tube, then mount in the chuck with the jaws squeezing the tubing. Don't tighten too much. The tubing distributes the clamping force so there's less chance of crushing the wood.

Best -- Terry
 
I think you are on the right track. A drill press, band saw and belt sander with a sanding disk are the tools I use most. Oh and Dremel tool is a must for a scratch builder.

I want a lathe too but the cost is a little high for it to only be used on my toys :) It'd be hard to get past the finance officer as I want something in the 18 to 24 inch range. One of the rockets I want to build needs a 16" long conical nose cone...

-Bob
 
I think you are on the right track. A drill press, band saw and belt sander with a sanding disk are the tools I use most. Oh and Dremel tool is a must for a scratch builder.

I want a lathe too but the cost is a little high for it to only be used on my toys :) It'd be hard to get past the finance officer as I want something in the 18 to 24 inch range. One of the rockets I want to build needs a 16" long conical nose cone...

-Bob
For a 16" nose cone I would use a 3D printer you may have to print it in sections
 
I've done this by slipping a length of BT over the chuck, and the NC into the BT. You can add centering rings in the BT if you want to, say, round off the shoulder of a nose cone into a pod. Or use them on the outside of the BT that fits the chuck to use larger diameter BTs for larger diameter NCs.

Use sanding blocks to shape the cone. Go slow.

[ref: the other drill press thread--this is a 20 year old $90 Craftsman belt drive bench top model; it takes this abuse pretty well.]

4E62BDAB-840F-419C-8756-EF9230AC4A96_1_105_c.jpeg83CB8F54-9659-4D78-A3D7-C9E0A1B3081C.jpeg
 
Search Amazon and ebay for 4-jaw wood lathe chuck. It takes longer and is more tedious to use a 4-jaw independent chuck than a universal (self-centering) chuck, but the 4-jaw can be much more accurate. Be sure that the thread on the chuck matches the thread on the lathe's spindle. 3/4-16 and 1"-8 tpi are common. I've seen 6" chucks on sale for about$60.
View attachment 439624
One way to avoid crushing soft wood---assuming you're starting with a round piece--- is to cut a short piece of aluminum or copper tubing that's nearly the same i.d. as the balsa o.d. Cut a slot down the side of the tube (widening it as needed), slide the balsa into the tube, then mount in the chuck with the jaws squeezing the tubing. Don't tighten too much. The tubing distributes the clamping force so there's less chance of crushing the wood.

Best -- Terry
Thanks! All useful information.
 
I've done this by slipping a length of BT over the chuck, and the NC into the BT. You can add centering rings in the BT if you want to, say, round off the shoulder of a nose cone into a pod. Or use them on the outside of the BT that fits the chuck to use larger diameter BTs for larger diameter NCs.

Use sanding blocks to shape the cone. Go slow.

[ref: the other drill press thread--this is a 20 year old $90 Craftsman belt drive bench top model; it takes this abuse pretty well.]

View attachment 440030View attachment 440031
Interesting. It might have worked on the chuck that came with the drill, but probably not the keyless I have on it now.
 
The band saw came and I have it set up. Hopefully I won't cut a finger off.
I'm picking up the rotary tool and forstner bits in the morning.
Before I invest in a lathe, I'm going see what is possible with the drill press, but I'm probably going to have to get a lathe, eventually.
I'm going to go downstairs right now and see if Ted's idea might work with my chuck.
The table I'm using for my bench tools is a computer desk I made years ago. It is basically plywood cut into an L shape and supported by three Burro type sawhorses, which are rated to 1.000 pounds each. It's obvious that I need to get one or two more and rearrange them so the plywood is supported better.
 
That's relatively sophisticated for a fonly* lathe. The one change I'd want to make if (well, probably when) I do this would be to use a smooth rod for the tool rest, so the tool isn't going "bump bump bump" along the length. A long bolt that's mostly shoulder should do, or a thin walled tube over the bolt he used. Definitely worth it if one is using it more than once in a blue moon but not often enough to be worth buying and housing a lathe. And maybe worth it in that case would be a rig that uses a bearing to make a live center.

* "Folny I had a lathe." They're often little more than a drill held down to some blocks with pipe clamps.
 
I watched some videos on drill press hacks.
There is a lot you can do with a drill press.
After watching one, I ordered one of these and a set of milling bits to go with it. I also have a set of Forstner bits.
Amazon.com: WEN 413CV 3.25" Compound Cross Slide Industrial Strength Benchtop and Drill Press Vise: Home Improvement
There are better ones and may even be better ones for the same price, but since my drill press is a WEN, I thought it might be a good idea to buy a WEN vise. I don't know if that will make a difference, but I'm playing it safe.
I ordered a center finding tool that works with a compound square to mark the center of transitions and nosecones. It's supposed to arrive Monday (it's now Saturday). I ordered a plastic gadget a couple weeks ago and it still hasn't come.
 
I've had the drill press, band saw, rotary tool and bench sander for a while now and, so far, what I've used most are the band saw and the rotary tool.
I use the band saw to cut tubes to length, cut the shoulders off nose cones and transitions, and cut fin tabs to length.
I was wondering if anyone uses a scroll saw?
I was thinking it might speed up fin making, but I'm concerned it would tear the balsa to pieces.
I could layer the balsa between something else, like particle board, but that seems pretty wasteful.
 
Particle board would probably chip and break even worse than balsa. There is the old trick of using masking tape that works for a lot of things.

I imagine a scroll saw would help with curvey fins (and it's not necessary for those) but other than that I don't see rocketry use for it. Like any other good tool though, the uses will surely show up, rocketry or not. Personally I don't think I'd put my money there, but then everyone's needs, desires, and financial positions are different.

I've sometimes wondered how well a leather working swivel knife would work for balsa fins. Certainly it costs less than a scroll saw. (The one pictured is a surprising $54.95.)
1608555833163.png
 
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Nope, misunderstood. Cutting fin slots in CRs outside of the tube. I interlock a lot of my fins and CRs. But after you asked that, a 4 fin rocket would be easy. Drill small hole in opposite slots to install blade through and cut away. Probably not work so well with paper tubes though.
 
Ah, got it. And for even fin counts that might work; it'd still be a challenge to keep the blade aligned on both slots at the same time, I should think.
 
My scroll saw is my most used machine tool. I am mostly working with 1/8 ply or basswood.
I tack things together, such as a set of fins or centering rings, with 'Easy-Tack' and saw them as one piece then to the sander still tacked together for final shaping if needed.
 
I was wrong on this subject once already, so I really should keep quiet, but I just can't help embarrassing myself further.

For the money that one spends on a good scroll saw, I suspect that unless one is making a lot or curvy fins and centering rings, a coping saw would be a wiser investment.
1608645153907.png
 
I've seen a lot of used scroll saws on my Facebook Buy & Sell page lately. I have a Ryobi scroll saw and it works well. I use it to cut out centering rings, fins, bulkheads. But I've seen used Deltas, Ryobis, Craftsman, Skill, etc for around $50. In fact one guy was giving one away just because he didn't want it taking up space any more. Here's an example.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/714491169400582/?ref=search&referral_code=undefinedHere's an example off of Craig's List. The bed is rusty but that is pretty easy to clean up.
https://brainerd.craigslist.org/for/d/wadena-13-scroll-saw/7223123661.html
The Wen lathe looks good. But if you plan on making nose cones and other small items you should plan on investing in one of these chucks. Just make sure that the thread of the chuck you buy matches your lathe's threads. Note that you can find less expensive ones but this chuck comes with 3 different sets of jaws which make it much more versatile.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NCDMMT...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
I'm also thinking of buying one of these as it would help deal with sanding things, one of my least favorite parts of woodworking.
https://www.amazon.com/WEN-6524-Osc...lating+belt+sander&qid=1608643864&s=hi&sr=1-1
 
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Scroll saws cut on the down stroke. You can replace the insert with a home made one that has a much narrower gap or even one with a hole drilled in the center where the blade goes through. Either of these keeps the tear out minimized & small parts from going down into the blade slot.
 
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