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Monokote hinges for gliders a how to guide

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CharlaineC

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So one of the tricks I have been doing for a long time now is to use monokote for hinges on gliders. So i thought I would share how to do it.



Items Needed
  • Monokote
  • Sealing Iron (greatplanes has a wounderfull hand held for cheap.)
  • Sissors
  • Ruler
  • razer or exacto
  • glider
  1. Turn iron to the recommended temp for the Monokote being used.
  2. measure the hinge 1" wide and 1/4" shorter then the elevon
  3. line up the elevon with the glider and place the hinge centered between the two .mark the four corners to help aline in the next step.
  4. Carefully start to remove the backing from one end (do not remove it all at once!) Carefully line up the monokote end your working with to the two marks made and press into place.
  5. Slowly work pressing the monokote in place allong the elevon
  6. Repeat steps 2-5 for other elevons if needed
  7. Take the iron and slowly work it accross the monokote a few times to shrink and set it. repete on each hinge.
  8. Once cooled. work the hinges so the operate smothly.
Warning do not use on vacuformed gliders with out testing scrap first.

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MarkII

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Great info, Charlaine. I have never used Monokote for anything, and up until a couple of years ago, I have never even heard of the stuff. So I'm totally unschooled in it. Questions: how well does the hinge hold up to repeated flexing, and how firmly does it adhere to the balsa?

MarkII
 

CharlaineC

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i have not had any isues with repeated uses. and it holds up well. as for the adhearing to the balsa. it will rip the balsa once schrunk if ya try.
 

Gillard

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that's a good tip.
i wrote a way of putting hinges into wings on EMRR.

http://www.rocketreviews.com/featured/tip_featured13.shtml

it uses a hinge cutter and puts a slot into the balsa edge.
then a small piece of mylar in inserted.
a hole is then mage through the top of the wing through the mylar.
CA is then wicked in creating a peg and gluing the hinge.

the finished product leaves a smart finish with no tape visable
this is the method used on VMX space plans.

featured_tip13_finished.jpg
 

dr wogz

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Ulteracoat is better.. Cheaper too! and less heat required.

For that matter, "Econocoat' is cheaper still, with less heat and super shrink rate.

Sorry, An R/C plane guy here, and one who uses Ultracoat almost exlusively. The "monokote vs. Untracoat" debate is as long and as toothy as the "Ford vs Chevy" debate..

Just really scuff it up before applying, to get paint to adhere..
 

CharlaineC

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Sorry, An R/C plane guy here, and one who uses Ultracoat almost exlusively. The "monokote vs. Untracoat" debate is as long and as toothy as the "Ford vs Chevy" debate..

I wasn't going to get into that one. I have a number of planes myself. just dont fly much any more.

Econocoat doest not work well for the hinges. it doent hold long..

and ultracoat is just as good. though for hinges i have had to use a woodpecker to have it hold better. though it does have alot more colours then monocoat. imop
 

CharlaineC

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gillard I like that too but my hinge cutter is lost right now. though i have thought about useing it on rockets. but what about the real thin stuff?
 

mjennings

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Jim Flis uses this technique on the Rose-A-Roc kit.

I have a repair question though, if the monokote comes of the wood can you just re hit it with the iron to restick it our do you need to pull it all off and start over?
 

CharlaineC

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I have always replaced it if needed but their are otheres who say to differ.
 

dr wogz

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Generally just re-heat, and re-sitck. (Iron it back down) If torn, the torn edges will pull apart as it shrinks.

Another method, that dosen't rely on one large peice. And gets 'both sides' of the control surface: Interleave several smaller peices:

1. Cut a bunch of peices about 1/2 x 1/4" (or smaller / larger depending on the application)

2. Join 2 peices together, glue side to glue side, so that only about a 1/4 of each peice 'glues' the other. That makes a few strips 1/4 shorter than two pieces palced end to end, and pieces that now have a 'glue area' on both sides.

3. Tack / glue down a series of these on one side of the control surface, equally spaced apart..(ideally, the width of the peices.)

4. Repeat on the other side of the control surface, and in between the previously laid out pieces. You should have a set of 'fingers on one side, and a set on the other, all inbetween each other.

5. Interveave / fold them over to the other side (so the glue side will 'glue down!), and then attach them to the main foil / wing / fin. They should all make an 'X' type cross over / hinge axis (viewed from the end, not the top), from the upper side of one side to the bottom of the other surface. The next in line should be from under, and onto the top of the oppocite structure. the next the oppicite of that...

The idea is that monokote glued side to glue side is very strong. This also binds the moveable surface from both side, not just one. And, the control surface tends to 'roll' better along the hinge line. At least, on larger control surfaces this makes sence..

too much work, eh?!
 

Gillard

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gillard I like that too but my hinge cutter is lost right now. though i have thought about useing it on rockets. but what about the real thin stuff?
with the thin stuff - i do what you do and go for tape- it just does not look as nice - but function over form everytime.
 

mjennings

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Thanks for the info, I'll try to restick it and if that doesn't work I have some laying around to replace it.

Dr Wogz good idea, I may try that sometime where I need more control movement.
 
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