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Monocote instead of prep/paint

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extremevelocity

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Hi has anyone used monocote (colored plastic shrink wrap)
I was thinking about using it instead of all the work with the prep and paint,both for the airframe and fins.
If anyone has any pros and cons let me know.
Mike
 

powderburner

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Lots of pros.

Only con I can think of at the moment is: could be difficult to get into some of the tight corners (fin fillets, inside corners of transitions?) with that relatively big 'ol monocote iron to get the material to stick down really well.
 

Zippy

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I've been using Trim Monokote mostly for bands and stripes.
It's self stick so I dip it in slightly soapy water just like decals.
It works great but I haven't tried it in fin fillets or tight corners.
 

rstaff3

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I've used iron-on monokote a few times on both fins and body tubes. Despite not being very proficient, I was happy with the look. Up close you can see some seams but from a distance it looks like a plastic finish. I haven't tried crossing anything tight like the fin fillet area.

I've use trim monokote many times. Works great for bands and stripes.
 

mikeyd

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I used it on my "Robarts" express, dual UFO glider launch vehicle. The gliders are styro foam, painted with aqrilics, the blue, orange, and yellow on the boster are monokote.
 

extremevelocity

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Well it sounds like I have to give it a try on my L1 project:)
Could I use a regular heat gun for this?I assume so but just want to ask.
Mike
 

powderburner

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You might get real lucky and be successful with your heat gun. OTOH, you might melt holes through the monocote.

The monocote sealing iron is specially designed to heat across the range of temperatures where the monocote plastic sheet stock needs to be. The special irons also have a pretty good thermostat adjustment to tune in just the right temperature. I would HIGHLY recommend spending a few bucks and getting the right tool that is designed to work with the monocote. It will very likely save you a lot of frustration and wasted time.
 

extremevelocity

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wow it looks great I will give it a try.
I will start with the fins on my next rocket and see how it goes:)
If things are working well for me I will do the airframe as well.
Mike
 

edwardw

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My L1/L2 rocket was done in Monokote. I loved it. I used a heat gun to tighten the stuff to the body tube - with a little practice I didn't burn through any of it. You DO however need to stick down the monokote to the body tube before going at it with the heat gun. Wrinkles disappear. Fins are pretty easy to coat. Fin fillets are another story. I coated my fins. My fins are TTW (through the wall mounted. I just coated the distance that would stick out. Then on the body tube I cut an extra 1/4 around the fin slot. On the fins I cut a 1/4 from the body tube also This gave me 1/4" on the body tube and 1/4" on the fin to apply an epoxy fillet. After the fillets were down I still could see the wood color underneath as well as the body tube. I just took a blue permanent marker that matched the monokote and colored the fillet in. Looks okay. I have no idea of how to blend a good fillet in monokote.

Edward
 
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Austin

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I have used Monokote on models before with good results...the only problem is it wrinkles and needs re-heated in spots over the years. The finish looks like plastic though!

Carl
 

el chubbo

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what types of substrates does monokote stick to?
 
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Austin

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Iron on Monokote will stick to balsa, ply, plastic, metal and paper. Those are the only ones I have tried so far.

Carl
 
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