MMX ESS Raven (Centuri Classic)

[Micromeister]

Here's my latest Down Scale Classic for Micro-Maxx motors.

Centuri produced this model in 1979. At any Scale it is turely a great design, deciding between 7.1mm(.281) micor maxx body tubing, T-3 .375", or 10.5mm (.4475") body tubing was fairly easy. the .281 was to small for most of the tiny folded paper parts and the 10.5 would end up over 14grams.
As it turns out the T-3 size allows use of all the tiny add-on cardstock and paper pieces and ALL the decals. EWt: with 1/64 3ply plywood wings and tail came in at 8.6g, while the same model with .020 styreme wings and tail tipped the scales at 9.0grams with a slightly longer 16" x 3/4" teflon tape streamer/wadding recovery. Can't wait to get to the field tomarrow she should fly well on MM-ll motors

As always if you'd like to try building one the Plans are posted in the files section of the Micromax yahoo group.
heres the Pic of the Pair.

 

[n3tjm]

Very Very Nice... now I know what I want for Christmas

 

[jflis]

that IS beautiful!

But, it ain't just the *design*... ...it's the work and skill you put into building 'em!

 

[wscarvie]

Originally posted by jflis
that IS beautiful!

But, it ain't just the *design*... ...it's the work and skill you put into building 'em!

Jim's right, of course. Micro, you da master-micronizer!

That is one very nice rocket. I can't get clean finish like this on my full scale model rockets (yet).

Will Scarvie

 

[Micromeister]

Will:
The trick is not in the Can! it's in the primer prep and after spray application "finishing". I Spray paint all my models with Krylon Colors over "What ever is cheapest Grey and White primers.
Once you have primed the model, with min. of 3 coats of sandable primer, Sand out everthing you do not like. Than use a Flat with primer of plain old Flat white paint if that's what you have. Check the finish....See anything you don't like? if you do Sand it out. if you sanded into the grey primer, give her another Flat white base and recheck. Remember you do not want to be building up a bunch of paint layers, it's all dead weight. I try to sandoff at least a complete coat or two (especially with micro's) to keep the weight down.
When your are happy with your flat white base, Give her two finish coats of color. Wet sand with 320 or 400 between coats, trying hard not to sand to the flat white base.
After you finial color coat has had at least a full day to dry... (remember Sandmans tip--Smell it! if you can smell it Wait!)
use a small piece of damp cotton t-shirt material and 3M Finesse-it II Finishing Material Part No. 05928 to "polish out" any orange peel or other surface micro scratches. This is NOT a quick process but you can have painted surfaces SMOOTH as a babies butt!
The Finesse-it isn't cheap either...Last quart I purchased was 22.13 plus tax at Mattos automotive paint supply store here in the Maryland area, PPG stores also carry this 3M product Da! go figure. I think my biggest model is a BT-80 66 in long Orbital Transport that was also finished in the same manor. It took 2 or 3 evening in front of the TV, with the model and the Finesse-it to smooth out everthing, but it's worth the time
One word of warning...Do not attempt to use Finesse-it on ANY clear coat, it will attack and remove the Clear, It can be used over decals without damage.
Hope this helps, Here a pic of the material and application

 

[wscarvie]

Originally posted by Micromister
Will:
The trick is not in the Can! ...
Hope this helps, Here a pic of the material and application

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THANKS Micro! An excellent little tutorial there.

My biggest problem, apparently, is impatience. If I conquer the urge to get the model on the pad and flying AS SOON AS POSSIBLE, I'd be able to tackle these kinds of finishing jobs. Doesn't seem like any one step you describe is difficult with some practice.

I just need to stop settling for "good enough" and strive for "great" in my finishing, I think.

Thanks again,

Will Scarvie