Minie Magg 5.5 build thread

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Ok so forward and aft ring epoxied to body tube after getting the fin can fully epoxied and then put into the BT ..Outside Fin joints all epoxied and one out of two rail buttons installed and epoxied
What’s left is another rail button shock cord parachute nose cone which loc recommends modifying the nose cone so the shock cord goes through the aft end of the nose cone and out the other side. Basically instead of using the traditional molded plastic U shape hook on the aft end of the nose cone your going to drill a hole on the left and right side of the aft side of nose cone and pass the shock cord through.F444690C-26DB-4450-A221-20D6002B6B22.jpegD069633B-3E2E-4FAC-8186-12738A5A65E2.jpeg
 
The loop molded into the nose cone is far too weak for recovery attachment. Even in the old days with elastic shock cords it would break. I've also anchored an eye bolt in the center molded hole. See post #43 https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/variable-drag-project.157027/

that’s also a good idea with the eye bolt.
I agree those plastic loops molded to the nose cone can be very light weight and not very trusting
Although I must say the apogee zephyr came with a extremely beefy plastic mold loop on the nose cone for that HPR. But that’s not the norm for most plastic nose cones
 
I’m surprised LOC doesn’t have the removable nose weight system for this one......provides many weight options, and a solid nose cone mount. Ordered two more canisters for my Phoenix today, to help fly on more motor choices.
 
that’s also a good idea with the eye bolt.
I agree those plastic loops molded to the nose cone can be very light weight and not very trusting

+1 to Rocketjunkie's suggestion. Fantom nosecone.jpgThe trick is to cut an access port in the nc shoulder that's big enough to reach in to tighten the nut, but not too big... on this 4" Loc NC I drilled four holes to round the corners, then used a heated surgical scalpel to cut the plastic.
 
that’s also a good idea with the eye bolt.
I agree those plastic loops molded to the nose cone can be very light weight and not very trusting
Although I must say the apogee zephyr came with a extremely beefy plastic mold loop on the nose cone for that HPR. But that’s not the norm for most plastic nose cones
I usually just cut the loop off the base of the nosecone and sometimes cut a slot/window into shoulder as you have done or drill another hole in the base of the nosecone so I can loop the shockcord in ( push the cord in one hole and fish it out the other with a hooked piece of piano wire ) Run on sentence. Sorry.

As others have remarked, it sure seems the Magg could benefit from LOC's adjustable nose weight system.
 
The looping it through the nose cone method works very well and LOC seems to be recommending it whenever they revise instructions. It's what I've been doing most of the time. The other method of course is to cut off the whole end and just epoxy in a bulkhead, possibly with an avbay. And all of these approaches work. But drilling two holes, fishing it through and quicklinking it is very strong and works well for rockets in this basic weight class.
 
not to much to report at the moment. I did get the rail buttons measures and centered and epoxied. Next up drilling the nose cone for the shock cord attachment as stated above

986DAB09-B52C-43B3-A170-CC26BF61FB0B.jpeg
 
+1 to Rocketjunkie's suggestion. View attachment 426370The trick is to cut an access port in the nc shoulder that's big enough to reach in to tighten the nut, but not too big... on this 4" Loc NC I drilled four holes to round the corners, then used a heated surgical scalpel to cut the plastic.
I always my toggle bolt method. Dill one hole and your done. Very easy and fast. I have never had on pull out.
 
Drilled 1/2 inch holes in the nose cone and passed the shock cord through and attached the Quick link to the loop and back over the shock cord. Attached the shock cord to the eye bolt on the forward ring and also taped the shock cord a total of 2 feet from the eye bolt connection upward for alittle extra protection from ejection charge next up primer and paint D64A28D3-BFB5-4EA4-AF2F-3241F7CAE299.jpegE4BAE95F-3667-4BF1-9BBA-70CBC1D415DF.jpegD2AE2602-22BE-4442-90AE-BC774E9A37AE.jpeg
 
Got the orange paint all done and drying now next up is black nose cone and black fins and then decals some custom some original 0B7BEC93-EB8F-477D-84A5-28C64EA7691C.jpeg528A1A63-EAE6-4A42-8036-A266E70C8395.jpeg
 
2 light coats then 2 slightly heavier coats made a pretty good finish for the orange
 
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