Mega Rebel with Monokote

[Funkworks]

So I just ran out to get the Hangar9 iron they had at my local hobby shop. My job seems like peanuts compared to this one but I'll be watching closely now.

 

[Crawf56]

Strongly suggest you experiment with scrap balsa.

 

[Crawf56]

Here is the nosecone again. Needs sanding. Note the circle traced by the top of the body.

 

[Crawf56]

Added supports to help hold the added structure rigid.

 

[Crawf56]

A bit of sanding...

 

[Crawf56]

Adding some 1/4" x 1/4" balsa near the fins, for attaching monokote.

 

[Crawf56]

Time to pick monokote colors.

 

[Funkworks]

Butting in again but answer can be very short: on a rocket finished with spray paint, and now requiring both monokote and a clear cote, would you apply monokote over clear coat, or clear coat over monokote.

Edit: Oh never mind, I'll just do this "at-large" (new thread). Carry on.

 

[Crawf56]

Butting in again but answer can be very short: on a rocket finished with spray paint, and now requiring both monokote and a clear cote, would you apply monokote over clear coat, or clear coat over monokote.

Edit: Oh never mind, I'll just do this "at-large" (new thread). Carry on.

No worries; ask anything.

Whether you put monokote over clear cote or paint, you run into a similar issue: to attach monokote, you must heat it. Thus, you also heat the paint/clearcote that is underneath, making it sticky. The paint/clearcote then gets on your monokote, and on your iron. And stuff on your iron then gets back on the surface of the monokote.

My guess is that the reason the model calls for monokote is to get a glossy finish?

Truth is, monokote is rarely used over painted surfaces. Normally, monokote better off being attached to wood.

Hate to say this, but you might be better off masking and painting.

 

[aerostadt]

I'm interested to see how this works. Years ago, I put monokote on the Lady Hawk rocket glider. Results turned out pretty good, but I think that application was more a straightforward and standard procedure than this.

 

[Crawf56]

Here we go. Note that, just because I have used monokote, doesn't mean I am good at it.

Also, this is my first time to cove a rocket. Your mileage may vary.

Get some good scissors.

 

[Crawf56]

Start by cutting out an oversize piece of material. Peel off the clear backing. This is the 'sticking' side. The other side will not adhear.

The sticking side of the monokote is slightly duller than the 'outward' side.

 

[Crawf56]

So, here is the piece:

 

[Crawf56]

Showing the edges, and location of the supports.

 

[Crawf56]

More attaching at edges.

 

[Crawf56]

eVER FORWARD.

 

[Crawf56]

Hmmm....not pleased with all the wrinkles. Turn on some heat for stuff to attach.

 

[Crawf56]

Turn up the iron from 250 F to 325 F.

 

[Crawf56]

Better, but not good. Got out the heat gun ….

 

[Crawf56]

Tried a little different technique on the other side of the nose. Attach monokote in small sections.

 

[neil_w]

 

[Space Ranger]

It looks like the kit's vertical 'spars' stick out a little bit beyond the outer diameter edge of the horizontal rings (maybe 1/16" +/-) and this makes it hard to cover the openings with a 'smooth' panel surface?

 

[mbeels]

This looks like a situation where a "pull and stretch" method may work better than the tack and shrink. Tack one straight section down, and then use a heat gun to warm the monokote enough to be able to stretch it and pull it out. You'll need to anchor the rocket some how, and a big enough piece of monokote to be able to grab it and not burn your hands from the heat gun. Something like what this guy is doing:

 

[Funkworks]

I don't think it really matter whether or not this ends up working. Someone has to try for everyone to know. Not knowing anything about monokote yet, my take at this point is that positif air pressure inside wouldn't be out of the question. I have zeppelins and blimps in mind. One has a solid surface, the other a soft one with higher pressure inside.
https://www.wired.com/2016/10/lockheeds-hybrid-airship-part-blimp-part-hovercraft-no-hot-air/Explorers are those I respect the most.

 

[Crawf56]

This looks like a situation where a "pull and stretch" method may work better than the tack and shrink. Tack one straight section down, and then use a heat gun to warm the monokote enough to be able to stretch it and pull it out. You'll need to anchor the rocket some how, and a big enough piece of monokote to be able to grab it and not burn your hands from the heat gun. Something like what this guy is doing:

There are some concerns with this technique of tightly stretching the monokote:

1) Sometimes the framework cannot handle it, and breaks.. And you end end up having to repair/replace components.

2) Sometimes the framework warps. Can be worse than the first concern.

But the video shows good information. The plywood structure of the Mega Rebel makes it less suseptible to warping.

 

[Crawf56]

Finishing up the 'orange' side.

 

[Crawf56]

Comparing the "one big piece" of monokote to the "sections" monokote.

"One Big Piece":



"Sections":

 

[Crawf56]

Starting on the other quadrants. This is "metallic purple".

 

[Crawf56]

For some reason, the metallic purple is looking somewhat blue in the pics.

Showing overlap. Time consuming, but functional.

 

[Crawf56]

I am cutting oversize sections of monokote, and trimming. Sometimes, it is difficult to remove the monokote backing. So, I use something sharp.