Me-163 Komet from Arkansas [by Klima at Apogee]

Crawf56

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I originally wanted to run a plastic tube through the hole, but it does not line up well enough. However, a 1/8 inch diameter launch rod fits well.

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Crawf56

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Showing the openings for the servo wires in the top center of the wing.

Futaba has an odd system for a delta wing. The individual servos are plugged into Port 1 (aileron) and Port 6. You must also choose the "Flying Wing" setup.

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ksaves2

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Throwing some paint on top. This is some old Model Master Field Green enamel, brushed on. Not finished, but may be good enough for a flight.

Yeah, Good enough. Any type of finish and a monokote plastic would add a lot of weight. Light coat of paint is probably the best although I don't know if a magic marker would hard foam. Kurt
 

Daddyisabar

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Throwing some paint on top. This is some old Model Master Field Green enamel, brushed on. Not finished, but may be good enough for a flight
Accurate late war paint scheme. :) To be super phancy you could throw on a dollop of red and grey primer. A cool story would include some DAK mustard yellow, they found an unused can recovered from the bombed out Henschel tank factory.
 

Crawf56

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Accurate late war paint scheme. :) To be super phancy you could throw on a dollop of red and grey primer. A cool story would include some DAK mustard yellow, they found an unused can recovered from the bombed out Henschel tank factory.
This has been a nice, respectful thread so far. I would hate to start a debate on RLM [Reichs Luftfahrt Ministerium] colors. :haironfire:

So, "German Jet Aces of WW2" lists the Me-163 as painted with three main colors:
  • RLM# 81 - Dark Brown...or dark violet (purple)....or black-ish.
  • RLM# 82 - Dark Green
  • RLM# 76 - Light Blue....or light gray?
Also, considering that by 1945, the factory was lucky to get paint. And the quality and color varied...... :questions:

By the way, "Luftfahrt" is German for "Aviation".
 

Crawf56

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This Me-163 needed a LOT of nose weight. Like, 3 ounces. With a full motor, the All Up Weight [AUW] was 10 ounces (280 grams).

I was worried, but this fits well with the instructions giving a weight of 300 grams.

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Crawf56

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The rocket motor itself has no spacer, and there wasn't one in the kit.

Here is an 18mm video from Dynasoar:
(Note that this is the D2.3, not the D24.)

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burkefj

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You definitely need the delay grain and the little o-ring, the o-ring is the spacer that goes between the propellent and delay, you need both of these to fill in the space so when you screw it together it seals properly.

Big o-ring in front, (Inside the cardboard, delay, small o-ring, propellent), nozzle and small o-ring.

Frank
 

Crawf56

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And these components go inside the propellant 'tube'? In this order?

Small o-ring - fits well inside the cardboard propellant tube (on the right).

Delay Grain (small cylinder on the left) - It is a smaller diameter than the propellant tube, but does not quite fit inside the propellant tube. Does the outer cardboard on the Delay Grain need to be 'un-peeled' to fit?

Also, does the Delay Grain need to be flush with the propellant tube? Again, there are no spacers like the E6.

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burkefj

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Thank you for looking in, Frank.

So, you are saying the arrangement should be as follows:

View attachment 527709
Yes
And these components go inside the propellant 'tube'? In this order?

Small o-ring - fits well inside the cardboard propellant tube (on the right).

Delay Grain (small cylinder on the left) - It is a smaller diameter than the propellant tube, but does not quite fit inside the propellant tube. Does the outer cardboard on the Delay Grain need to be 'un-peeled' to fit?

Also, does the Delay Grain need to be flush with the propellant tube? Again, there are no spacers like the E6.

View attachment 527710
Typically there's a burr on the inside of the propellant liner tube , I just stick my thumbnail in the end of the tube and spin it around and get rid of that Burr and the delay element will go in snugly you should not peel anything off of the delay element.

The delay will be flush with the forward end is it butts up against the large o-ring along with the cardboard liner, The propellant will stick out of the nozzle end of the liner very slightly maybe a 30 second of an inch this is just fine because the inside of the nozzle is a cone shape and so it will nest inside of the cone and you'll still be able to close the casing against the nozzle and the o-ring and make the seal.
 

burkefj

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If you look at the zoom in of the drawing for the D-24-10T you will see it on the right side that the propellent sticks out past the liner just a little bit, to the right of the number 4 arrow. The only thing you might need to peel is the outside of the liner to fit into the casing.

The reference link is great and it also lists all the parts numbers that you can order on the aerotech parts list site if you ever need anything or get the wrong part.


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waltr

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Really, just carefully follow the instructions packed for the reload. They are good and show you the exact steps.

Only change would be to not put the BP in for ejection since this is a glider.
 

Crawf56

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Moving along, let's deal with the next issue: The Canopy.
It's beautiful, see-through (you can thus add a pilot figure), and .......... I friggin' lost mine. :angiefavorite:

I am so frustrated! It came with the kit, fit well, and I can't find it. So, I had to find another solution. I contacted Apogee, and they don't have spares (which is what I expected).

I considered sanding a canopy to shape with balsa (which I kind of wish I had done). But I found a similar Me-163 at MotionRC. I ordered the canopy/hatch from that.
https://www.motionrc.com/products/s...-702mm-pnp-sky1032-002?variant=42481734811833

Here is what I got (black), beside the existing Me-163 hatch.

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Crawf56

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But the MotionRC (Skynetic Krafte) Me-163 hatch is NOT a drop-in replacement. I had to do some trimming.

I made it work, but I am so disappointed. If I ever find the original canopy, I will put it on my Me-163.

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Crawf56

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Well, something of a twist. Decided to change radios. Going from my Futaba T14SG to a Spektrum DX6.

The DX6 has a much easier flap setup for the elevons.

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Crawf56

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This is a launch platform for RC jets. I think I can use it with the Me-163.

Even though I have modified it for a launch rod, I would like a more horizontal first flight launch.

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