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Maxi Brute Pershing-1A

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Stymye

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I recieved my Pershing cone from Alien Enterprises
and it's a beauty..a construction report will follow
Edward also makes the upper and lower fin set
for the Pershing
he can be emailed for an electronic catalog

mailto:thunderhead@ihs2000.com

the cone is impressive compared here to the estes Phoenix
I plan to use interchangable Motor mounts from my Little Joe 2
 

rkt2k1

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Stymye,

Very cool! What was cost of the Pershing 1A nose cone. This is one of the kits I wanted as a kid but could never afford. I've been able to get a couple of the others (ie. Maxi-Brute V2 and Honest John) but the Pershing was never re-released. I heard rumors that Estes no longer had the original molds. Collecting the necessary materials and cloning one may be the next best option. Thanks for posting the pic!
 

rbeckey

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I also have alway wanted to build the Pershing. The Launch Pad had one, but the problems there are well known. I would like to build a D-E motor version, say 2.6-3 inch main BT. That Alien Enterprises cone looks great, but it must be at least a 4 inch. With the AT situation being what it is, I am concerned about the continued availability of mid power AP motors and don't really want to build a dream project that I might not be able to get motors for. I built my V2 for 24mm Fs and haven't been able to lay hands on one yet. Now it may never fly.
 

n3tjm

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Cool Beans. I always wanted a Pershing Missiles also... back when I was an PA, there was a old hobbyshop that had one in stock... they mostly dealt with trains... so their rocket stuff did not sell very fast. But I kick myself because I never could afford it when I was a kid....
 

Fore Check

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Very cool -

I too got the catalog from Alien, got all excited about the Pershing stuff, and will be building one. I will drop the $50 for the cone and fins to make it easy - those vacuformed crapola fins from estes are a WHIPPING!


Anyway, I already have the decals from TangoPapa for my Pershing, but no tube, cone, or fins. (I'm a bit ahead of myself, eh?)

I was thinking at least a 5 x 24mm "E" engine mount, but, considering the price, will probably go with a 6 x 24mm "D" engine mount in that BT-101. I figure I'll just load one up and add enough nose weight in that cone to make it stable.

Tango's decals look cool, BTW! (I wouldn't have ordered them if I didn't already have a whole mess of them in anyway. They were part of a $120 order....... My wife already cut me off until March when she got the bank statement...........)
 

Stymye

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Fore Check,
Make sure to use an Estes(totally tubular) Bt101,, it fits perfect
Estes only stocks the stubby V2 tubes
 

Fore Check

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HMmmmmmmmmmm..............


I had every intention of usin the TT 101.... I have zero access (that I know of) to an Estes 101. Besides - who makes a 101 coupler?

I had a similar problem with a cone being just a shade or hair too small in diameter compared to the tube. a minor shoulder.

I used regular scotch clear tape to make it fit in the tube properly, then I sanded the tube to make the shoulder go away. It was relatively simple, although it took about 20 minutes and quite a bit of attention with 400 grit paper to complete. I'll certainly keep that in consideration. Thanks for the tip!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

Stymye

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building finally continues

*Important*
I need to clarify that the Totally tubular bt-101 will indeed fit nicely...I had the wrong tube in my hands when I was first starting on the build......<bonks forehead on table>

also,, I verified,the only length (Christene) Estes has availiable is the Maxi V2 size...too short for the Pershing.

sorry about the missinformation Forecheck

I have the fins built up from venier ply over a balsa core
the edges are wrapped with Basswood than shaped
a dab of filler to smooth everything out and sanded

they feel bullet proof but I will apply something for a hard finish when I figure out what that is..heh
 

Stymye

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I decided to go with the interchangeable motor mounts
one mount is a 5X 24mm cluster should get around 1000' with D12-5's and 1400" with E9-4's
If one ,or possibly 2 motors fail to light she will still leave the rod stable not sure about recovery tho

the second motor cartridge is a single 29mm
 

Stymye

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the body tube is cut ,I used a 10" compound miter saw with a fine carbide blade..you can't tell the difference from a factory cut
does real nice on fin slots too but requires a very cautious approach

the nosecone is sanded and primed ..no filling was necessary
these cones are very nice and sand like a dream
the cone weight is 16 oz,,it comes with a bulkhead and eyebold assembly that also didn't require any sanding
 

Stymye

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heres the round I plan to model
it's probably the most easy to replicate
should be ready before the next MC2 launch
 

Fore Check

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This is good news! That thing looks *huge*!!

I received my BT101 from Totally Tubular a few weeks ago. Still haven't ordered the fins and nose cone, though.


For the motor mounts, I have a ring set up in my next BMS order. It will be a 29mm central motor, with 4 x 24mm motors clustered around it.

I figure I'll get some balsa nose blocks for "plugs" for each motor tube, so that I can fly it as a 29mm, 2 x 24mm (E's), 4 x 24mm (D's or E's), or if I'm feeling *really* lucky, I'll stick 4 x E9-P's around a G80. :eek:
 

Stymye

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I have the internals done,I changed my mind yet again and went with a single permanent 29mm motor mount.. just to simplify the build and make stability set-up a little easier..the next one sould be a cluster

T nut motor retention .and set up up to handle a 29/240 case
If I become brave enough

the fins are attached and the base,tube,and fins have holes drilled thru for glue rivets to form between them all
I plan to further harden the fins and fin bases

this is a pretty big model!

heres a pic with the maxi V2 for comparison
 

Stymye

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heres a close-up of the diamond fins
 

Stymye

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I followed the idea from my Honest John central outer ring,
and made the charge retainers for the pershing from venier

it makes a really nice crisp part without the fuzzyness that I seem to get from paper parts

I still have a few more details to make

heres a pic of the charge retainers
 

Stymye

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I added a section of couler tube internally under the upper fins to keep that area of the BT more ridged ,I used 4) 1/8 ply centering rings throughout for overall strength

the stuffer tube runs up far enough to allow for a 5" chute compartment,,the motor/stuffer is a Loc hd motor tube

I added blocks on the lowest centering ring for the motor retainer t-nuts and annother block on the upper centering ring for the kevlar shock cord mount

I used yellow glue on most of the build ,but used cya and epoxy to harden key areas of the tubes

weight without motor and recovery so far 20.3 oz

I weighed the cone again and its 13 oz..not sure how I got 16 oz before ,but it's definately 13 oz..I don't think noseweight will be much, if any
 

Fore Check

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I continue to watch this thread with great interest.

Looks great so far!


Did you use the Alien Enterprise fin set as well? What did you attach them to the tube with?

Do you intend to RocSim or swing test your finished model?

I've got the centering rings for my Pershing laid out on my next BMS order (procrastinating, waiting to spend another $200 - you know how it is....) It looks like 4 x 24mm centered around a central 29mm will fit nicely. I'm opting for 1/4" plywood, though, just because that tube is so large.
 

Stymye

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I made the fins with venier ply and a balsa core and hardwood edgeing sanded to a sharp edge

I drilled holes thru the fin bases and thru the tube also in the fin root ,,,than a double glue joint with titebond II

I have a preliminary rocksim done that shows plenty of stability without noseweight,,I still have to tweak it when I get it painted and loaded up,,,swing test would be a good idea

I'm also going to try finishing epoxy over the fin assemblys to help with rough landings,,,I used the measurements from the plans for the fins ,,they are oversize for better stability
 

Stymye

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I finished adding all the "bits and bobs"

next filling sanding and hardening of all the wood components

heres annother compare pic with the Maxi Honest John
 

Stymye

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while sanding the radius into the conduit covers and fin bases
I found that using a bt80 wrapped with sandpaper ,worked better thasn using the bt101 tube ,,I guess that not keeping each sanding stroke perfectly straight inadvertantly made the radius bigger, go figure but it worked out just right

for the retaining bands around the top edge, and center of the BT
I used the venier again(I really like working with this material!)

nice sharp bands,,that make those little details really pop out
 

Stymye

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I finished the pershing and primed it ready for paint

It flew today on an F50-4 to about 700'... very nice flight
looked great going up !

I used an x-form chute but did not take into account the faster decent compared to a round chute so it came down a little fast and stuck a rear fin (doh!)
the fin broke off cleanly at the fin pad so, an easy fix.

It was a challenging build but I can't wait to fly it again.!
I'll post a pic after I paint it.
 

Mad Rocketeer

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I did have a Pershing 1-A as a kid . . . and I've still got it! :D I never added the last dodad or two to it, and I just painted the whole thing green. I flew it on the recommended motor, which as I recall was a D. It flew low and slow, and I loved that majestic ponderous take-off. I've never forgotten it. On its last flight, it broke off some fins, and I wasn't able to recover them all. I found a source of solid molded fins, but the maker says they're heavy enough to turn the stock Pershing into an E bird. I'd like to find some fins like the originals, i.e. vacuum molded. I'm hoping to put the remaining fins back on and just replace the missing ones from the new set. If all goes well, this bird can fly again! Any clues on the lightweight fins?
 
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