Masking ??

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Rocketmaniac

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What is the best or ideal tape to mask a rocket for multiple colors?

Does the kind tape used prevent "bleeding through" or is it a technique? By "bleeding through" I mean, you tape off an area where you don't want the paint to go and when you remove the tape you find the paint has leaked into that area.

Once you have an area where the 2nd color has leaked on the 1st color, is there anything you can do except re-paint the first again?


Looking at my Upgraded V-2, with yellow and black paint has led me to ask these questions. It's not bad, but just not perfect like some paint jobs I have seen.

https://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5172

Thanks
 

DJ Delorie

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Two things I've learned, either here or my accident:

1. Use plastic/vinyl masking tape, not paper (beige or blue) masking tape. It's less likely to bleed.

2. After masking, the first coat should be the BASE color, not the NEW color. Then, any bleeding just won't show. Also suggested: use a clear coat decal sealer for this purpose.
 

rocketsonly

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Originally posted by DJ Delorie
Two things I've learned, either here or my accident:

1. Use plastic/vinyl masking tape, not paper (beige or blue) masking tape. It's less likely to bleed.

2. After masking, the first coat should be the BASE color, not the NEW color. Then, any bleeding just won't show. Also suggested: use a clear coat decal sealer for this purpose.
Yes, I second that. Spray clear coat between masking and a new coat of color to seal the masking and the surface. Make sure the clear coat is compatible with the paints you are using.
 

astrowolf67

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The only mask I use any more, is one of two items. One, is self adhesive vinyl shelf lining. Second, is something I found at a local Hobby Lobby, and just tried for the first time. It's called Magic Clear. It's pretty much identical to the shelf lining, made of clear vinyl, and it's main purpose is for laminating documents. It can also be repositioned, even on paper. I like it since it is clear, you can tell where you have it pressed down good (just like with scotch tape). The adhesive holds it down well, but on tests, didn't even tear paper when carefully removed.

With both of these, you can cut off how ever much you need from the roll, draw and cut out your design, and make a full diameter masks.
 

Stymye

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David ,I tried that shelf lining recomendation from your earlier posts and It works very well! thanks...it doesn't have the rough edge that masking tape has either.

also as mentioned,spraying a light first coat or clear prior to the second coat, makes all the difference.
 

Karl

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I use the 'Blue Painters Tape' made by 3m , it's the best stuff I've ever layed my hands on for painting.
...the first coat should be the BASE color, not the NEW color...
^, I agree with that , if you do it like suggested, bleeding will never be a problem.
Karl
 

Rocketmaniac

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Originally posted by DJ Delorie
2. After masking, the first coat should be the BASE color, not the NEW color.
First coat should be the lighter or darker color? In my case, yellow or black?
 

Stymye

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Paint the rocket yellow , mask it off, spray a light coat or two of yellow, wait mabey 30 min than spray the black. if any paint seeps it will be the yellow and it will keep the black from seeping .
 

Rocketmaniac

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Originally posted by stymye
Paint the rocket yellow , mask it off, spray a light coat or two of yellow, wait mabey 30 min than spray the black. if any paint seeps it will be the yellow and it will keep the black from seeping .
Oh........ now I get it!!!!!! Thanks........
 

DumasBro2

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I use pin striping masking tape (more of a vinyl) that you can pick up at an automotive store that supplies paint products (like NAPA). Once I have the edge masked off I then use regular masking tape and paper, not newspaper as it will leave print behind on light colored paints. All the above suggestions a great as well.

steve
 

Omega_D

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I use the same as DumasBro2. It comes in different widths and never lets paint bleed through. Any auto parts store that carries autobody supplies should have it. I believe it's made by 3M and is a light green in color. It works great!

-tz
 

limd21

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The regular 3M "Blue Painter's" masking tape really isn't the best for masking sharp edges. (Sorry.) It's still a crepe-paper based tape, just like plain masking tape and, therefore, can allow bleedthrough.

The suggestions for shelf liner, parafilm, vinyl tape, etc all share the same property of not being crepe-paper based, and can make a much sharper, properly sealed edge that prevents bleed through. Even with these, it's still a good idea to "burnish" the edge down with your finger nail or popsicle stick.

The tape made espescially for this purpose is the product mentioned by others for doing auto-body striping work. Commonly called "fineline" striping tape.
 

DynaSoar

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Originally posted by DJ Delorie
Two things I've learned, either here or my accident:

1. Use plastic/vinyl masking tape, not paper (beige or blue) masking tape. It's less likely to bleed.

2. After masking, the first coat should be the BASE color, not the NEW color. Then, any bleeding just won't show. Also suggested: use a clear coat decal sealer for this purpose.
I'm in with this. I get decent results with painter's tape if I rub the edges well with the side of a spoon. But for a nice sharp line nothing beats vinyl tape. With stuff like Pactra striping tape you can mask of incredibly thin lines. Vinyl streches when you pull it off that that cuts the paint surface just right.

I've seen people say to use clear coat before the second color, but using the base coat again makes more sense.
 

r1dermon

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yes, fineline is what i use, go to NAPA, usually it comes in only 2 widths(where i go anyway) but i think you can get it wider, but it makes razor edges, no bleed through ever, just press it down with your finger and you're set. very easy to work with.
 

DumasBro2

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Yeah, Fineline. That's the stuff. I think tha NAPA here has 3 0r 4 widths.

steve
 
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