looking for plastic brains

[airforce]

Micromister,
Looking at your Sabre picture got me a little excited, I love those planes. So of course I ran out at lunch time and bought me (I don't have the box with me), I think a Super Sabre, by Monogram and it's about 16" long.
I want to make it fly but I just don't know where to start.
Do I build it per instruction except for maybe adding a paper tube
running right through the gut of it?
How do I balance it, do you typically need nose weight?
What kind of recovery, so many questions, so many kits, so little time.

I'm sorry for being so stupid but it's your fault. If you hadn't posted about 55 plastic related items I would have never thought of flying plastic.

Randy
Now adding planes to my Airforce.

 

[Micromeister]

Randy:
Not at all a problem, I need a little more info about the model you bought... If it is in fact a super sable it's an F100, I'll need to know what scale 1/72, 1/48th 1/32nd?
If its either the 1/72 or 1/48th I have a one page plan I can scan and send you.

 

[rstaff3]

plastic brains? Thought this was going to be another odd-roc thread

 

[airforce]

Micromister,
It's a F-100 Super Sabre in 1/48.
Thanks
Randy

 

[Micromeister]

Randy:
Ok, I'll try to scan that one page Doc. this weekend, If I can get it readable at a file size loadable here I post it so others can use it also, If I can't I could stick it in my Yahoo files, I'll let you know.

 

[airforce]

Sounds like a 'plan', HEHE.
Thanks again.

 

[airforce]

Micromister,
I don't want to be a bother but did you find the F100 plan for me?
Thanks
Randy
ps. you can email a file if that's easier

 

[Micromeister]

Sorry Randy!
I was looking for it last evening, I found a set of generic instructions but didn't find the plan I was looking for. I will scan the instructions this evening anyway. If I can't find the plan, I think you can see the seperation point in the F100 photo below, just ahead of the cockpit between the decals. be sure to align the elevators exactly parallel with the wings.

 

[airforce]

John,
Thanks, what a great picture of a neat jet. As soon as I saw it I thought, WOW, why don't we just trade, your jet for my box of parts
You gotta admit, mines newer!
I do see the separation in front of the canopy, looks great.
I will wait so patiently for a plan, cause without one I don't have a clue!!!
This looks like its deffinitely going to be a brain teaser for me.
Remember, I can't draw a stickman, I'm very artistic, NOT!
Thanks for any and all direction with this project.
Randy

 

[Micromeister]

Ok Randy:
let's look at a couple tools that will make this model a lot easier.
do you have or have access to:
an Xacto saw and mitre box, or some stable way of remove the nose of the model with a clean straight line.
Liqiud Plastic paint. not the tube stuff.
a #1 or #2 Xacto knife with a new or very sharp #11 blade.
a piece of BT-20
3" of 19mm body tube(will be cut to proper lenght later) or a BT-20 nose plug
it is much easier to use the 19mm slip over tube then the nose block, to slide over the BT-20 body tube inside the model.
EB-20 motor block or a 1/4" piece of spent motor casing
3 feet of 70lb or 100lb kevlar line
2 feet of 1/8" oval (not flat) elastic (fabric store)
21g of spit shot fishing weights or BB's ( this is a total for the cutoff nose piece, short section of 19mm tube, and the split shot)

Randy:
I want you to visit www.narhams.org , go to the library section, scroll down to tech-tips, go to Tech-Tip 009 Plastic model conversion. you should be able to download the entire handout we supply when we present Plastic Model Conversion as a building session. the material is designed specificially for beginners and refreshing old timers memories

 

[airforce]

Thanks John,
I'm on it.
I've printed all the tech tips including the ones you pointed out previously relating to painting. I'll print the parts list you've provided and start the study process.
I'll call on my math teacher wife to help with those funny measurements, 21g.
I'm not sure what a BT20 tube size is, I'm a "all the parts are in the bag" kit builder. I'm sure I can find out. I bet our friend JFlis has some of those in his parts department.
Thanks again.
Randy

 

[Micromeister]

Sorry again Randy:
Some of this stuff is just automatic. The BT numebers are Estes Body tube part designations. but there are other designations as well, mostly in the metric system... My wife hates the metic system we have tubes that start at 6mm(about 1/4") 7mm, 10.5mm etc. Estes Quest and other manufacturers use different part numbers
Most of the them we will be talking about in this forum will be the motor size tubes. Micro-Maxx fit in a TT-2+(.281"), mini-motors in a BT-5 13mm or(.544"), Standard motors fit in BT-20 18mm (.736") and C-11, D12 and some E motors fit in BT-50 24mm (.976"), and than ther are the 29mm composites (1.148").
19mm is not an Estes tube but maunfactured by others. Totally tublar calls them TT-20+ OD is .770 with an ID of .744, I believe Apogee still has them as 19mm .774" OD .748 ID either will work, Nose weight is easier to control in grams (g) useing split shot, BB's or my personal favorite #9 lead shot, most mass in the smallest possible space.
To convert for grams to ounces, there are 28.35g per ounce. If you look in the package of split shot the pack should tell you the approximate weight in grams of each weight,
If you have an electronic scale, most of the home scale have a switch that will convert you ounces to grams or tenths of grams
I believe it was in the Info section of Rockets on-line where i saw a very nice body tube chart with all the dimensions if you interested.
Hope this helps a little

 

[Micromeister]

Randy!
I spend the better part of the evening yesterday looking for the plan from my 1/48th F100 Super Sabre...No luck. I found the data packet, I found the cardboard cutout, but I don't have a clue what happened to the conversion plan.
I guess we'll have to reconstruct it as you go along. If you run into a problem. let me know an I'll help as best I can. May be better to carry this out directly at [email protected].
To get started: First remove the nose at the position shown in the photo just ahead of the cockpit. save these pieces for later.
Assemble your motor mount with or without retainer hook and shock cord.
I believe it will be necessary to remove some of the plastic from the exhaust with a Dremrl and a 1/2" drum sander, or the hard way with a piece of sandpaper rolled around a 3/8" dowel. you want the BT-20 .736" body tube to fix snugly in the opening with both body halves dry fit joined. Hold the fuselage halves together with rubber bands at this point. If you are going to use a motor hook I suggest cutting a small secton from the botton of each half to pass the hook. To center the tube inside the body, place pieces of scrap balsa in a couple of locations just ahead of the forward wing socket insuring at least one inch of inset (recessed) from the forward end of the tube to allow the nose piece to slide on. Take care to see the tube will seat
centered all ways within the halves of the fuselage dry fit together. Once you are happy with the fit epoxy or CA the spacer balsa and tube in place.
Next cut a piece of 19mm tube that will fit a far into the assembled nose piece as possilble and extend at least one inch inside the fuselage over the BT-20. You will need to weigh the plasic nose pieces and the 19mm tube that this point, remember we want the completed nose pieces to weigh a total of 21grams.
I add a loop of 100lb kevlar to the inside of the 19mm tube as the shockcord anchor, to be tied on later. At this point you should be able to complete the construction of the plastic model by the kit instructions. If you have questions about detialing the cockpit or how to modifiy it around the body tube send me an e-mail.
Hope this helps

 

[airforce]

Micro, you the man, (plastic man), I mean that in the most highest complimentary way. (is that a word, I guess it is now).
I will be printing these post and constructing by instruction manual.
This is not a big rush project so I won't be bothering you every 4 hours but once I get started I'm not promising you won't get a volume of questions.
Good idea I'll use your direct connection (email), once I get started.
Thanks again
Randy