LOC Warlock L2 build

Wildman Rocketry
SilicdyneTRF
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No time for the fins today, but I did complete some small tasks such as adding backing for the aft rail button and filling the holes in aft centering ring (because Aeropack). The little chunk of ply for the aft button will get more epoxy before I close things up.

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Just a wacky idea, but could a Warloc be used for an L3 attempt? It looks like an M1297 in a 75/5120 case is the smallest M motor available. I'd like to have a rocket that I can fly on smaller motors: not just a one-and-done. There are several 75mm reloads that look good, or it could even be used with 54mm cases (with adapter).
 
Sooner Boomer said:
Just a wacky idea, but could a Warloc be used for an L3 attempt? It looks like an M1297 in a 75/5120 case is the smallest M motor available. I'd like to have a rocket that I can fly on smaller motors: not just a one-and-done. There are several 75mm reloads that look good, or it could even be used with 54mm cases (with adapter).
Click to expand...
m1378 should "fit", but would need to stick into the nose and/or hang out the back.
 
Trying to decide how large to make the vent holes.

Internal volume is about 485ci so based on the 1/4" per 100ci suggestion that would be (5) 1/4 holes...or (3) larger holes. Curious what y'all have done for your vent holes. My NC is quite loose so I'll be adding some tape.
 
BuckRogers said:
Trying to decide how large to make the vent holes.

Internal volume is about 485ci so based on the 1/4" per 100ci suggestion that would be (5) 1/4 holes...or (3) larger holes. Curious what y'all have done for your vent holes. My NC is quite loose so I'll be adding some tape.
Click to expand...

I am not the brightest man (I've crashed my L2 twice), but maybe I missed something. Why are you punching holes in your rocket?
The Warlock is not a high performance rocket, so really shouldn't need a vent to prevent premature separation, though a single small one (1/8 inch or so) up near the base of the nosecone can't hurt.

I don't see where you mention an altimeter, but the holes you describe sound like venting for an altimeter.

Where did this thumb rule of 1/4" / 100ci come from? I don't recall having seen that anywhere.

I hope you have a great flight!
 
T-Rex said:
I am not the brightest man (I've crashed my L2 twice), but maybe I missed something. Why are you punching holes in your rocket?
The Warlock is not a high performance rocket, so really shouldn't need a vent to prevent premature separation, though a single small one (1/8 inch or so) up near the base of the nosecone can't hurt.

I don't see where you mention an altimeter, but the holes you describe sound like venting for an altimeter.

Where did this thumb rule of 1/4" / 100ci come from? I don't recall having seen that anywhere.

I hope you have a great flight!
Click to expand...
Looks like I got some bad and/or misunderstood advice from a fellow rocketeer. They got the 1/4" per 100ci figure from VernK's website -- which is referring to altimeters. My buddy was concerned with premature drag or pressure differential induced nosecone separation and suggested I use the 1/4" per 100ci rule to figure out how big to drill the holes.

After a bit more reading on the issue and discussion with another rocketeer (with far more experience) it seems a single 1/8" hole should be plenty to address premature NC separation on the Warlock. But I'm happy to hear more feedback while I'm totally not patching some 1/4" holes...
 
I have three 1/8” holes in mine. I don’t think nose-cone separation is a big issue with Warlocks, but just in case, I do have a practice of putting two 1”-wide pieces of masking tape on either side of the rocket to hold the nose cone on. It’s enough to hold the cone in place against a bit of weight or pressure, but the ejection charge easily breaks the tape. I use a total of about 3 grams of black powder, and that’s enough to tear the tape and pop the cone off.
 
ThirstyBarbarian said:
No, you don’t need sheer pins.

But I do like hardening the cardboard with CA, just to protect it some. I usually try to do a “soak” of the lip by pouring some thin CA into a shallow container and putting the lip of the tube in it and letting it absorb. Then I use a foam brush to paint thin CA on the inside of the tube. After it dries, it’s rough inside with the hardened cardboard hairs, so I sand that out. It makes a nice, smooth surface inside the chute compartment. It’s easier to clean out when is been treated that way. You can easily wipe away the BP residue from ejection charges and the old dog barf if you use that.
Click to expand...
How far down?
 

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