Loc Vyper 3 bash continued...

[NewEntity1]

I finally got around to uploading the pics from the work I did on the Vyper 3 last week. This continues the series, where previously I had shown my construction of a custom baffling system.

In this pic, you can see the 3 motor tubes epoxied together. The yellow cast is due to using Hobby Town epoxy at this point, which has a darkish color to it. Later construction used Z-poxy, which is a little stronger, and clear.

In the foreground are 3 motor blocks, two of which I custom made from the remains of a spent E-motor, the third a green Estes block I had spare. The Loc Vyper 3 kit did not come with any motor blocks, so I added them.

 

[NewEntity1]

In this next picture, the centering rings have been sanded down to fit (took quite a bit of sanding to get them to fit over the 3 tubes with fillets already in place), and mounted on the tubes.

 

[NewEntity1]

The fist fin epoxied in place...

 

[NewEntity1]

All 3 fins attached, and a spent F-21 casing used to push in the motor blocks to the right depth.

 

[NewEntity1]

The main body tube has been cut down to 9 inches in length. This is about where Rocsim said I had to cut it, in order for the weight of the baffling sub-assembly (seen in forground) to be properly balanced.

 

[NewEntity1]

Here the motor mount assembly has been epoxied into the cut tube:

The last pic I took, which showed the baffle sub-assembly mounted into the other end of the cut tube, seems not to have taken. I will have to re-take the picture before I proceed further in assembling this rocket.

 

[Rocketjunkie]

Originally posted by NewEntity1
In the foreground are 3 motor blocks, two of which I custom made from the remains of a spent E-motor, the third a green Estes block I had spare. The Loc Vyper 3 kit did not come with any motor blocks, so I added them.

The kit doesn't come with motor blocks because 24 mm motors come in various lengths. This rocket will fly very well (and very high) on 3 G55-15's.

With LOC kits, wrap 1/2" wide masking tape around the nozzle end of the motor to build up a ring the same OD as the motor tube, reloadable motors already have this ring as the rear closure is larger in diameter than the rest of the casing.

 

[NewEntity1]

As you can see from the pics, the motor blocks are already in place....can't remove them once they are already in.

I don't feel the need to, either. The motors I plan to fly this on come in basically two lengths: the F21 and E9 length, and the D12 length. For D12s I'll use 3 spacers. For E9s and F21s, I fly it without the spacers. I don't even intend to fly it very often with F21s, for cost reasons...3 f21s gets expensive.

I am quite happy with my decision to add motor blocks

 

[Hospital_Rocket]

Originally posted by Rocketjunkie
The kit doesn't come with motor blocks because 24 mm motors come in various lengths. This rocket will fly very well (and very high) on 3 G55-15's.

With LOC kits, wrap 1/2" wide masking tape around the nozzle end of the motor to build up a ring the same OD as the motor tube, reloadable motors already have this ring as the rear closure is larger in diameter than the rest of the casing.

I installed the motor blocks to fit the Ellis G37 SU. Then I use a series of spacers for it to press against. I can't figure out how to use a RMS on the Viper3 or Viper 4 as the spacing of the tubes does not allow for the diameter of the rear closure.

Any body got a business end picture showing a cluster of RMS in a LOC Viper.

BTW - Saw a KingViper in a store. 108" long and three 54mm MMT. Oy!

 

[Stymye]

I also used motor blocks and employ spacers for different length motors, I glued a 8-32 threaded rod into the central void , so a washer and nut retains all 3 motors.

 

[Stymye]

forgot the pic

 

[Hospital_Rocket]

For the Viper3 I used the threaded rod approach. I found the motor blast has a less than ideal effect on the threade rod, so I tried something different for the -4. I found a 10-32 standoff and epoxied it into the void so now I have an effect like the classic blind nut retention.

Just a couple o' reptiles

 

[NewEntity1]

I glued a 8-32 threaded rod into the central void , so a washer and nut retains all 3 motors.

Kinda what I have had in mind to add to mine before I'm done, as well

 

[ssthor]

I used a "hammer in insert nut" (Home Depot - pack of 4) for my Viper 4's retention. I had to grind the sides slightly in order for it to fit. The threading is 5/8" deep, thus allowing for plenty of standard length bolts and variation. Remember to tape the bottom end in order to prevent epoxy from seeping into the threaded area. Once epoxied into place, it is flush with the MMTs and provides a sleak appearance.

I have attempted to post a pic, but keep getting an error stating that the pic is to big.

 

[havoc821]

styme

what color blue and what brand paint was used on your viper 3? That is just the color blue I am wanting for my Eye in the Sky 8 rocket. Thanks!

 

[Stymye]

Havoc,
Krylon #1910 it's called- true blue gloss

 

[havoc821]

Cool, thanks! Also, do you know what brand paints if any that have a nice silver that doesn't look "cheap" or all sparkly? Thanks!

 

[Hospital_Rocket]

Take a look at the Rustoleum metallics. There is some aluminum and a series called hammered metal that uis real neat. Take a look at the teal Viper IV above, the metallic section is the hammered aluminum.

 

[havoc821]

That looks pretty goo, I may have to try it. I was going to use airbrush paints but I can't make up my mind yet on wether or not to use my airbrush or spray cans. Thanks!