LOC PRECISION - TUBES, NOSE CONES, ETC - BEST PRICES ?

[Ez2cDave]

LOC PRECISION - TUBES, NOSE CONES, ETC - BEST PRICES ?

Which websites have the best prices on LOC PRECISION tubes, nose cones, etc . ?

I'm talking about all of their individual components, not kits.

Thanks !

Dave F.

 

[djs]

Probably buying the stuff directly from LOC? They'll sell you the parts individually.

 

[Banzai88]

Probably buying the stuff directly from LOC? They'll sell you the parts individually.

This

 

[Ez2cDave]

Probably buying the stuff directly from LOC ? They'll sell you the parts individually.

Yes, LOC will sell parts at MSRP, Apogee sells above MSRP . . .

https://locprecision.com/product/motor-mount-tubing

https://www.apogeerockets.com/Building_Supplies/Body_Tubes/High_Power_Tubes/75mm_LOC_MMT

I'm looking for vendors who sell at discounted prices.

 

[Banzai88]

Does it have to be LOC? Binder sells components.

 

[Ez2cDave]

Where else can I get a thick ( .080" ) cardboard tube ( standard is .050" ) to use as a motor mount ( Level 3 Cert ) ?

The tube is the LOC 75mm MMT tube, not the standard 3.00" tube.

No one suggest a "mailing tube", please . . .

I could use Phenolic, but still need to know the best discount vendors . . . I'm "leery" of Blue Tube 2.0 .

 

[David Schwantz]

I buy parts from Jason all the time. No one better to deal with!

 

[Ez2cDave]

I buy parts from Jason all the time. No one better to deal with!

"Jason" ?

 

[David Schwantz]

Jason = LOC

 

[Ez2cDave]

Thanks . . . Apparently, other than Apogee, there are no other vendors that carry LOC components and I refuse to pay Tim's prices, in general, unless there is no other option.

 

[David Schwantz]

I get all kinds of stuff from Jason, LOC, prices are good and service is even better.

 

[Rocketjunkie]

I order LOC parts directly from LOC. Public Missiles phenolic motor tubes are more heat resistant. They are thicker than standard LOC tubes (.062" vs .050") but thinner than the heavy wall (.100"). I order PML parts directly also. LOC centering rings will not fit PML tubes without sanding the ID. Both PML and LOC will modify parts if needed.

 

[MikeyDSlagle]

Either LOC or PML phenolic will run what 15 to 20 bucks for a full length? You may can shop around and find it for 10 to 15 percent less. So you will save 3 dollars on a project that could cost up in the 1k+ range.

Or are you also wanting the airframes and nose cones? If so how big? Performance Hobbies has LOC components, and PML components, and tons of other stuff you can piece together a big project.

Either LOC or PML will cut you some custom rings to fit any tube. PML can do make them fiberglass if that is the direction you want to go. I have had good dealings with both.

The biggest lesson I learned from my L1 build was to settle on a design and build it. I had the mentality that I could buy certain pieces here, or a particular kit there and modify it, or maybe I can get more for my buck by using this kit, but this kit is closer to what I want...it was maddening. I caught myself doing the same thing recently while window shopping for a big L3 bird. Find/design what you like, buy it, and build it. Cutting a buck here or there can save money in the long run but how much is your time worth?

And it is an L3 after all...3 bucks?

 

[gtg738w]

There are many dealers that are proud to carry LOC. Have you tried all of the listings at https://locprecision.com/dealers/ ?

I sent you a PM, our store has recently added LOC as a supplier and we would be happy to get whatever you need.

I also wouldn’t hesitate to order directly from them. They are truly an asset to the hobby. Wish we could say that about all mfgs.

 

[Ez2cDave]

I order LOC parts directly from LOC. Public Missiles phenolic motor tubes are more heat resistant. They are thicker than standard LOC tubes (.062" vs .050") but thinner than the heavy wall (.100"). I order PML parts directly also. LOC centering rings will not fit PML tubes without sanding the ID. Both PML and LOC will modify parts if needed.

The rocket is going to be 7.5 "Sonotube" . . . 134" overall length, with a 75mm motor mount.

Fins, Centering Rings, and Bulkplates will be 1/2" Baltic Birch Plywood.

I have been considering "Always Ready Rocketry" to cut the fins, rings, and bulkplates, since they advertise they can work with 1/2" plywood.

Dave F.

 

[MClark]

Where are you located?

 

[Nytrunner]

I'm "leery" of Blue Tube 2.0

For what it's worth, Bluetube 2 is a great material. Note manuf direction to seal the tubes against moisture

 

[rharshberger]

For what it's worth, Bluetube 2 is a great material. Note manuf direction to seal the tubes against moisture

+1, and its tough stuff.

 

[Ez2cDave]

Where are you located?

North Carolina . . . About 25 miles NNE of Raleigh.

 

[Ez2cDave]

For what it's worth, Bluetube 2 is a great material. Note manuf direction to seal the tubes against moisture

Blue Tube 2.0 . . .

What about when bonding plywood Centering Rings to it, using JB Weld ?

Will it be able to penetrate into the tube or just be a surface bond ?

Should the surface of the tube be "roughed up", in the areas where bonding is desired ?

Does it de-laminates in layers or is it fairly homogeneous ?

 

[rharshberger]

Blue Tube 2.0 . . .

What about when bonding plywood Centering Rings to it, using JB Weld ?

Will it be able to penetrate into the tube or just be a surface bond ?

Should the surface of the tube be "roughed up", in the areas where bonding is desired ?

Does it de-laminates in layers or is it fairly homogeneous ?

CATO from last weekend, notice the Blue Tube peeled away with the epoxy, two fins were ripped off, and one opposite where the airframe split stayed solidly attached. Fins were 1/8" baltic birch ply laminated with 8oz FG each side, then bonded to the Blue Tube 2.0 with JB Weld. The epoxy penetrated the blue tube and fins were not coming off. The picture of the bottom of the fin even has part of the wooden ply core pulled out and it was still stuck to airframe.

 

[boatgeek]

Blue Tube 2.0 . . .

What about when bonding plywood Centering Rings to it, using JB Weld ?

Will it be able to penetrate into the tube or just be a surface bond ?

Should the surface of the tube be "roughed up", in the areas where bonding is desired ?

Does it de-laminates in layers or is it fairly homogeneous ?

Side note: While not discounting Rich's excellent CATO "survival" pictures, I don't think that JB Weld is the best choice for gluing fins to the motor tube, especially if you are trying to save a few bucks on construction. It does have good heat resistance (and hence ideal for motor retainers), but the outside of your motor mount shouldn't be getting that hot. There are a number of cheaper-by-the-ounce options out there. I'm a fan of laminating resins with fillers, but that requires buying somewhat bigger bottles. Of course, if you're glassing over the sonotube, you'll need a bunch of laminating epoxy anyway.

 

[Ez2cDave]

CATO from last weekend, notice the Blue Tube peeled away with the epoxy, two fins were ripped off, and one opposite where the airframe split stayed solidly attached. Fins were 1/8" baltic birch ply laminated with 8oz FG each side, then bonded to the Blue Tube 2.0 with JB Weld. The epoxy penetrated the blue tube and fins were not coming off. The picture of the bottom of the fin even has part of the wooden ply core pulled out and it was still stuck to airframe.

Rich,

Thanks for the pics . . . Did you "rough up" the area first or just bond it to the unaltered surface ?

I have an idea for, possibly, using an "old-school" method, in combination with JB WELD . . .

It's called the "Interlap Attach" method ( named by Jerry Irvine ).

Dave F.

 

[rharshberger]

Side note: While not discounting Rich's excellent CATO "survival" pictures, I don't think that JB Weld is the best choice for gluing fins to the motor tube, especially if you are trying to save a few bucks on construction. It does have good heat resistance (and hence ideal for motor retainers), but the outside of your motor mount shouldn't be getting that hot. There are a number of cheaper-by-the-ounce options out there. I'm a fan of laminating resins with fillers, but that requires buying somewhat bigger bottles. Of course, if you're glassing over the sonotube, you'll need a bunch of laminating epoxy anyway.

In this case it was a MD rocket and long burn motors so it was a good choice, and normally I would have used another epoxy if it hadn't been for this particular choice of application.

 

[Ez2cDave]

Side note: While not discounting Rich's excellent CATO "survival" pictures, I don't think that JB Weld is the best choice for gluing fins to the motor tube, especially if you are trying to save a few bucks on construction. It does have good heat resistance (and hence ideal for motor retainers), but the outside of your motor mount shouldn't be getting that hot. There are a number of cheaper-by-the-ounce options out there. I'm a fan of laminating resins with fillers, but that requires buying somewhat bigger bottles. Of course, if you're glassing over the sonotube, you'll need a bunch of laminating epoxy anyway.

I didn't provide enough background information before . . .

I've been in Rocketry for over 50 years ( 1967 ) and HPR for 31 years ( legally ), so I didn't feel the need for a lot of extraneous details in my post.

JB Weld will only be used for bonding and filleting all components that will be directly attached to the Motor Mount Tube ( Fin Can ) . . . Fins & Centering Rings.

All other bonding will use either RocketPoxy ( internal & external fillets ) or a slow-setting epoxy for maximum strength.

The "jury is still out" on glassing the airframe, as the flight will be sub-transonic with a very "gentle" motor ( AT M650 Moonburner ).

Dave F.

 

[Buckeye]

Thanks . . . Apparently, other than Apogee, there are no other vendors that carry LOC components and I refuse to pay Tim's prices, in general, unless there is no other option.

Your 75mm motor tube costs $15.75 at LOC and $16.00 at Apogee. If you ordered from Apogee, you would have had it by now.

 

[Nytrunner]

From previous threads, he may be going for 'least expensive L3'

 

[cavecentral]

Buddy called his l3 $88.13 for the cost. I think some parts like the chute and electronics were borrowed from other rockets.

 

[Ez2cDave]

Your 75mm motor tube costs $15.75 at LOC and $16.00 at Apogee. If you ordered from Apogee, you would have had it by now.

Actually, I'm now looking at using PML phenolic for the MMT, as it's inherent brittleness will not be a factor, considering the way it will be supported in the Fin Can. PML also provides other components & services that I can combine as one order, minimizing shipping costs.

 

[Ez2cDave]

From previous threads, he may be going for 'least expensive L3'

I don't like wasting money and, yes, the budget is tight. This flight is going to be as simple and inexpensive, as possible. My goal here is to get my L3 Cert "ticket" punched, pure & simple !

Basic "flight plan" ( with a little "humor" added )

(1) It goes up "pointy-end first", fire comes out the bottom . . . "Low & Slow" on an M650, two
Missileworks RRC3's.

(2) Drogue @ Apogee . . . No "drama".

(3) Main @ 1000 ft AGL . . . Clean "laundry" deployment . . . No zipper.

(4) Landing - "Welcome to Level 3" !

Dave F.