Loc Precision BIG NUKE 3E Kit

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Steven88

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Hello. I am thinking ahead to my next build this winter and am considering the Loc Precision Big Nuke 3E. Beings the body tubes are made out of thick wall paper and not fiberglass, how big or fast of motors would I be able launch with this rocket without fiberglassing over the tubes? As long as I stay below Mach will it take what I throw at it? Also, is it hard to fiberglass over paper tubes if you’ve never done it before? Build time wise I wonder if I’d be just as well off purchasing a pre-painted fiberglass kit instead and then I wouldn’t have to worry about all the extra work of painting and integrating brass shim stock into the paper tubes for the sheer pins. Extra time is something I do find hard to come by at this stage of life but am eager to build a bigger rocket. Has any one else walked this road and have advice for me? Thanks so much.
 
...am considering the Loc Precision Big Nuke 3E. Beings the body tubes are made out of thick wall paper and not fiberglass, how big or fast of motors would I be able launch with this rocket without fiberglassing over the tubes?
I built mine with a 54mm MMT, stock, no glass, and have flown it on motors as large as the L1000. It's a lot lighter than the equivalent fiberglass rocket.
 
sounds like you need to take a step back and evaluate your requirements / what you want to accomplish.

IMO LOC has some of the best kits out there. they are solid and can be pushed HARD right out of the box. the tubes take glass very well and if you have ever done fiberglass work, its not hard. is it harder than shooting a coat of clear on a pre-colored fiberglass tube, yes, but, for me, when it comes to work and rockets, i am ok with it. keeps my skills sharp if ya know what i mean

as for a 5.5" cardboard rocket Vs a fiberglass kit, the glass rocket is going to weigh a lot more and require much more motivation (read $$$) to get the same performance. not to mention that completing the fiberglass kit is going to cost a more as it is not as complete as the LOC kit.
 
We've seen the 3E take small M's without reinforcements. Just be sure to remove the glassine layer on the MMT and use a quality thin resin epoxy that will soak in. If you choose to glass the tubes, it would add roughly a pound over all. And of course, remove the glassine from the airframe as well.
 
I would love to install a 54 mm engine tube in the Loc kit instead of a 75mm to keep the cost down, and also because I’ve only flown 38’s so far and would only be upping one motor size. But is there an easy way to do this without having to lengthen the fin tabs so they butt the narrower diameter 54mm motor mount tube for strength?
 
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I would love to install a 54 mm engine tube in the Loc kit instead of a 75mm to keep the cost down, and also because I’ve only flown 38’s so far and would only be upping one motor size. But is there an easy way to do this without having to lengthen the fin tabs so they butt the narrower diameter 54mm motor mount tube for strength?
Check out the Loc website. The Big Nuke (without the '3E') standard PK82 kit is listed as having a 54mm MMT.
Good luck with the build - will follow with interest.
 
What would the disadvantages be for building it with a 75mm motor tube and just running a 54-75 adapter in it if I want to fly 54’s for now? Surely it wouldn’t add that much weight?
 
I built mine with a 54mm MMT, stock, no glass, and have flown it on motors as large as the L1000. It's a lot lighter than the equivalent fiberglass rocket.
Is someone able to tell me the height of this Loc Big Nuke 3E rocket? I am getting reports on different web-sights of 75” or 80”. Not a huge difference, but kind of want to know the specs before I purchase it.
 
We've seen the 3E take small M's without reinforcements. Just be sure to remove the glassine layer on the MMT and use a quality thin resin epoxy that will soak in. If you choose to glass the tubes, it would add roughly a pound over all. And of course, remove the glassine from the airframe as well.
Thanks for the help. Are you saying that I need to remove the glassine layer on the outer tube only if I plan to glass it or should I remove it around the fins slots even if I don’t glass it to help the epoxy stick?
 
Thanks for the help. Are you saying that I need to remove the glassine layer on the outer tube only if I plan to glass it or should I remove it around the fins slots even if I don’t glass it to help the epoxy stick?
Always on the motor mount tube but only on the body tube if you want to glass it.
 
This is my Big Nuke 4. I say 4 as it has a Central 54mm MM and 3 29mm MM around it. This pic is a K750WL air starting 3 H97J's Now I did glass this kit but even without the glass it can take practically anything that fits into it.

vp7kSGo.jpg
 
Ah - yes - my apologies I hadn't seen that. I see Loc have upgraded them by 3mm or so.
The fins on the 4 are 3/8". The fins on my 3E are 1/4" and that's thick enough for the motors I've used. I asked LOC to make me a 3E with a 54mm MMT, and they did, but I agree you should go with a 75mm MMT and adapt down.
 
Similar to the the Magnum, the base kits are 54mm with 1/4" fins. All 3E kits are upgraded to a 75mmt, 3/8" fins, dual deploy and a little more length to help keep balance for larger motors. It's fairly simple to toss any combination you;'d like into a box. Just give a call.
 
For motor retention on the Loc 3E, do your recommend the flanged Aeropack retainer so that in addition to glue I can also screw it down to the rear CR or is the Aeropack Retainer L glued to the tube with JB weld and no flange sufficienct?
 
I don't know what LOC suggests but on all my LOC 75mm based kits I use the flanged retainer. I think I'm up to 4 75mm kits now (7.5" Patriot, 5.5" Phoenix, 5.5" Sandhawk and 7.5" Saturn V) and a few scratch builds.
 
I personally preferer the flanged screw down retainer, however I don't use the provided threaded inserts. I use SS wood screws, there just as secure and allot easier to install, I usually double up on the aft CR so the screws have a bit more to bite into than .25" Here is the 54mm Retainer on my Scratch 7.5" Diablo. Also the best thing about it is they look so much cooler lol.

6S48Yb7.jpg
 
I would love to install a 54 mm engine tube in the Loc kit instead of a 75mm to keep the cost down, and also because I’ve only flown 38’s so far and would only be upping one motor size. But is there an easy way to do this without having to lengthen the fin tabs so they butt the narrower diameter 54mm motor mount tube for strength?

Aero Pack motor adapters. Adapts the 75 down to 54. 2 grain 75 motors are less expensive than 6 grain 54 motors.
 
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