Loc Precision BIG NUKE 3E Kit

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Theory

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Can’t believe the Nuke 4 isn’t fiberglass. Can you actually fly 98’s without glassing? Maybe the kit recommends glassing.
dont see any reason why not. 98mm Ks and Ls are, well Ks and Ls. not a doubt in my mind that a LOC 5.5" airframe could take a baby M as well. its stout stuff
 

Tim51

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dont see any reason why not. 98mm Ks and Ls are, well Ks and Ls. not a doubt in my mind that a LOC 5.5" airframe could take a baby M as well. its stout stuff
Eric Cayemberg's 'Loc N Load' build thread from a couple of years back is well worth reading (in fact all his threads are) in this respect: he upgraded a vintage Loc K Load, all unglassed: https://www.rocketryforum.com/index.php?threads/143463/
 

MikeyDSlagle

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I designed the 6" STINGER for Rocketry Warehouse and made it with a 75mm MM, however I made mine with a 98mm MM specifically for the CTI 1G 98 Case and the K1620 Vmax load.
Nice! I have been wanting one of those Stingers for a good while now. Just too cheap to buy one.
I have a weird affection for one grain motors. My most recent motor purchase was 2 Loki G94, a Pro38 G115, and a AT I229, all 1grain goodness. I modded my 4" Tembo to fly on 1grain 54s. Would like to see more options for 1grain 75s. I like my motors like I like my rockets, short and fat.
 

GaryT

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Nice! I have been wanting one of those Stingers for a good while now. Just too cheap to buy one.
I have a weird affection for one grain motors. My most recent motor purchase was 2 Loki G94, a Pro38 G115, and a AT I229, all 1grain goodness. I modded my 4" Tembo to fly on 1grain 54s. Would like to see more options for 1grain 75s. I like my motors like I like my rockets, short and fat.
Mike, I'm with you on the 1G Loads, there's just something about them that I like? Actually I'll be flying the CTI 1G I445VM in my 5" GIZMO on Sat. Speaking about 1G's Check this baby out.

 

MikeyDSlagle

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Very nice. It's staggering how much that piece of hardware costs. Not much to it, no reason to cost that much. Wonder how much a snap ring compatible piece would run.

To the OP. Sorry for the derailment, back to the regular scheduled thread...
 

Philip Tiberius D.

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If you never intend to fly 75mm, then build it 54mm. That way you can later find a killer deal on 75mm hardware and wish said hardware would fit in your glorious Big Nuke.
I said I would never go above 29mm, then 38 was big enough. I now have a 76/3600 that I got a killer deal on. Though I don't have a rocket for it yet.
Go 75mm, adapt down and then when the planet's align and the weather gives you the thumbs up, light a 75mm candle in the thing and smile. :cool:
Go Big, I’m going for M A X altitude at Pawhuska in a week or so.
 

Tobor

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I designed the 6" STINGER for Rocketry Warehouse and made it with a 75mm MM, however I made mine with a 98mm MM specifically for the CTI 1G 98 Case and the K1620 Vmax load.


Man, I love this rocket. I've wanted one since I first saw it. Maybe next summer...
 

comodelbuilder

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F9F5ABE5-4FE5-420D-9ADE-8A2F34FC9FDD.jpeg E70345B6-87D3-484C-A1D7-98743C97B2FD.jpeg A0B282BA-0C85-4671-828B-1738AE8B114A.jpeg

If you’re gonna use a flange retainer, may I suggest using a aluminum 5.5” to 75mm thrust plate from Apogee (made by SG Precision) WITH an Aeropack Flanged retainer. You’ll be able to move this from rocket to rocket if you mount it like I show here on my 5.5” IRIS (also a LOC Kit that’s in pre-production). I also have installed T-Nut inserts for both THIS thrust plate AND z-clip retention if I want to go that route. Just a thought!
 

Steven88

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Beautiful build! I like the ideas. Thanks
 

Steven88

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Thinking ahead a couple or even a few years into the future, what would I be required to do to eventually use the Big Nuke 3E for my level three cert on a baby M motor? I would be required to have a mentor to oversee the build process correct, as well as also be required to take another test? I am not ready for that step yet but just trying to get my ducks in a row. Perhaps I would be better off building a more sophisticated rocket later when I’m ready for level three, any recommendations? I don’t want to rush anything, just was curious what it would take to use the Big Nuke for level three or if I should go a different route. Thanks for your help
 

GaryT

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Personnel preference I'd go with a Fiberglass Kit. You would need a TAP for Tripoli to over see the entire build, construction methods and be able to show how you determined said kits stability. There is no test for L3.
 

Steven88

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Is the TAP required to actually come to my place of build and oversee the work or just monitor build process over say email or or phone?
 

GaryT

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No pictures should suffice, although its better to fine one that's within your area to be at the launch. You'll find all the info you need HEAR as well as the list of TAP's to choose from.
 

Steven88

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View attachment 394276 View attachment 394277 View attachment 394278

If you’re gonna use a flange retainer, may I suggest using a aluminum 5.5” to 75mm thrust plate from Apogee (made by SG Precision) WITH an Aeropack Flanged retainer. You’ll be able to move this from rocket to rocket if you mount it like I show here on my 5.5” IRIS (also a LOC Kit that’s in pre-production). I also have installed T-Nut inserts for both THIS thrust plate AND z-clip retention if I want to go that route. Just a thought!
 

Steven88

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I like what you’ve done there, it looks great! May I ask what Z-clip retention is?
 

GaryT

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I'm pretty sure he means just your standard piece of flat metal bent into what kind of looks like a Z.

It bends up over the motors thrust ring and screws into the aft CR.
 

Steven88

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Would there be enough advantage of installing all thread through both CRs versus t-nuts in the bottom centering ring only for the bottom thrust plate to mount to? I never plan to glass this rocket or fly Mach so will not be putting in the largest motors possible.
 

berlinetta

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Ya I’ve been looking at that one too, kinda threw it out because it doesn’t come with an eBay for dual deploy
I have both the Big Nuke and Big Nuke 3E. I added the eBay to the Big Nuke. If you can get your hands on a NERRF 7 DVD, you will see my Big Nuke 3E on the M1500 on Day 2, and I flew the Big Nuke on a K550 on day three. I 'glassed the 3E, but not the regular Big Nuke. I tip-to-tip 'glassed the regular Big Nuke.
 

Steven88

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You mean that you tip to tip glassed the Big Nuke 3E but not the regular Big Nuke? Approximately how much extra time did it take to glass the 3E?
 

Steven88

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I finally ordered the Big Nuke 3E today! Somebody on here said that epoxy clay is not a good thing to use for the fin fillets. My question is, what should I use for my fin fillets? I am planning to use RocketPoxy 5000 from Apogee for the rest of the build including gluing the fins to the motor mount tube. We it be good to also use it for that fillets or is there a better glue? I am not glassing this kit. Thanks for advice
 

jd2cylman

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Use the RocketPoxy. Lay out how much you think you'll need, mix it and let it sit to get rid of the bubbles. Lay it in the fillet when it starts to get thick.
Then pull it with your tool.
 

Theory

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Use the RocketPoxy. Lay out how much you think you'll need, mix it and let it sit to get rid of the bubbles. Lay it in the fillet when it starts to get thick.
Then pull it with your tool.
^^^this^^^
 

berlinetta

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You mean that you tip to tip glassed the Big Nuke 3E but not the regular Big Nuke? Approximately how much extra time did it take to glass the 3E?
I tip to tip glassed both. The top of each tube has a wrap of 2" wide kevlar on both the 3E and the regular Big Nuke. Only the 3E has fiberglass on both tubes going over the kevlar.
 

GaryT

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Just Flew my Big Nuke on Sat on a K520WH hoping someone got a pic. Good luck on your build.
 

GaryT

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Understandably so. I had a LOC EZI-65 that I built like 12 years ago, had a ton of flights on it till I pushed it just a little to much and ripped all the fins off lol. However I always loved that LOC kit and have wanted another ever since.

As for my Big Nuke I glassed the BT but left the fins as is 1/4" Baltic Birch I believe, Ive flown it on allot of bigger K's without incident. As a suggestion once built I recommend giving the inside of the BT a coat of sanding sealer, use your average HW Store sanding sealer from the paint department. It helps protect against moister getting in and warping the tube as well as protecting the ID from your BP charges. I used one of those cheap throw away 2" brushes and cut the handle off so I could get it in the BT. Another practice I use when building a cardboard kit was to use CA all the way around the edge of the BT, the BT soaks it in like a wick but it'll make it much stronger and help when your SC is rubbing against it on its descent, let it dry good and sand smooth is all.
 

berlinetta

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Understandably so. I had a LOC EZI-65 that I built like 12 years ago, had a ton of flights on it till I pushed it just a little to much and ripped all the fins off lol. However I always loved that LOC kit and have wanted another ever since.

I like the sanding sealer suggestion!

As for my Big Nuke I glassed the BT but left the fins as is 1/4" Baltic Birch I believe, Ive flown it on allot of bigger K's without incident. As a suggestion once built I recommend giving the inside of the BT a coat of sanding sealer, use your average HW Store sanding sealer from the paint department. It helps protect against moister getting in and warping the tube as well as protecting the ID from your BP charges. I used one of those cheap throw away 2" brushes and cut the handle off so I could get it in the BT. Another practice I use when building a cardboard kit was to use CA all the way around the edge of the BT, the BT soaks it in like a wick but it'll make it much stronger and help when your SC is rubbing against it on its descent, let it dry good and sand smooth is all.
 

Steven88

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Understandably so. I had a LOC EZI-65 that I built like 12 years ago, had a ton of flights on it till I pushed it just a little to much and ripped all the fins off lol. However I always loved that LOC kit and have wanted another ever since.

As for my Big Nuke I glassed the BT but left the fins as is 1/4" Baltic Birch I believe, Ive flown it on allot of bigger K's without incident. As a suggestion once built I recommend giving the inside of the BT a coat of sanding sealer, use your average HW Store sanding sealer from the paint department. It helps protect against moister getting in and warping the tube as well as protecting the ID from your BP charges. I used one of those cheap throw away 2" brushes and cut the handle off so I could get it in the BT. Another practice I use when building a cardboard kit was to use CA all the way around the edge of the BT, the BT soaks it in like a wick but it'll make it much stronger and help when your SC is rubbing against it on its descent, let it dry good and sand smooth is all.
 
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