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LOC IRIS 1.63" Park-Flier - paint tutorial at end

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Tyler P

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Another very nice build, Tyler That is a lot of rail guide. A short section at the bottom and short section forward should would reduce drag and alignment issues.... and looks. You can also cut the ends of the guides at an angle. It makes them look stealthy and does not degrade their function. Glad to see you picked up on the Estes retainer flute trim.
Thanks! Yeah, they're a bit long but they don't cut super well. They're really heavy paper tubes. I normally would've liked to use 1010 buttons but I decided to keep it simple to use with my lighter launch gear.

And, yes, that was a great tip on the retainer! A bit of work to clean it up, but it does look nice! I'll be cleaning up the one on my BBX build also.
 

Jozef

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Thanks! Yeah, they're a bit long but they don't cut super well. They're really heavy paper tubes. I normally would've liked to use 1010 buttons but I decided to keep it simple to use with my lighter launch gear.

And, yes, that was a great tip on the retainer! A bit of work to clean it up, but it does look nice! I'll be cleaning up the one on my BBX build also.
Another option for rail buttons on small, but powerful rockets are mini rail buttons. I had nasty rail whip on an Aerotech Arreaux. Cut off the tube guides and drilled for mini rail buttons. Of course, it requires a 20mm rail which I got on Amazon. Guarantees straight launches. LOC tubes are strong enough not to require anything more than a bit of CA to toughen the tube. I have them on a LOC Legacy as well using mini rail buttons. Your build and finish work is first class.

IMG_5752.JPG

IMG_4342.JPG
 

Tyler P

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Another option for rail buttons on small, but powerful rockets are mini rail buttons. I had nasty rail whip on an Aerotech Arreaux. Cut off the tube guides and drilled for mini rail buttons. Of course, it requires a 20mm rail which I got on Amazon. Guarantees straight launches. LOC tubes are strong enough not to require anything more than a bit of CA to toughen the tube. I have them on a LOC Legacy as well using mini rail buttons. Your build and finish work is first class.

View attachment 403983

View attachment 403986
I had thought about getting a mini rail.

Thanks for the kind words! I'm always working at it and trying to improve!
 

Theory

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cool deal, and thank you for the tips!

i see you use standard blue "painters tape." is that your go to? have you found some that work better than others?
 

Tyler P

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cool deal, and thank you for the tips!

i see you use standard blue "painters tape." is that your go to? have you found some that work better than others?
This is a "premium" painters tape. A step up from your typical green tape. A little more expensive, but it really works well. It makes clean lines but doesn't pull aggressively at the paint. This has been the best I've found so far. I've used Tamiya tape, but I've found this to be better, and cheaper.
 

Theory

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mind sharing what brand it is?

tape / taping is my nemesis... it either bleeds under, pulls the paint off or something else.
 

Tyler P

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mind sharing what brand it is?

tape / taping is my nemesis... it either bleeds under, pulls the paint off or something else.
This is Premier brand, from Canadian Tire. It is likely available under a different name at Home Depot or Lowes for those who aren't from the Great White North, lol.
 

Tyler P

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Here is what was supposed to be the maiden launch of the park-flier IRIS. A little chuff and it spat the igniter, haha! Sadly, I was out of igniters, so the maiden launch will have to be another day!

 

markg

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A few little extra tidbits: when spraying water-based acrylics I use a product that Vallejo makes called Airbrush Flow Improver. This both acts as a thinner and improves drying time, along with doing what its name implies. If you're using a gravity feed brush, a couple drops of this stuff in the cup, mixed in with a toothpick makes spraying paint a pleasure.
If anyone has specific questions, I'll do my best to answer. I'm not a pro by any means, but this works for me.
This is a timely bump. I was just out yesterday picking up some more spray cans and I swear the price goes up every time I buy them. Here in the Great White North I'm paying $10 / can.

I'm guessing an airbrush and acrylic paint would be cheaper for LPR rockets than spray cans. I get lots of overspray with the cans and the smell is obnoxious as well.

I've already got a 60 gallon compressor in my rocket workshop. What airbrush would you recommend for a beginner? Any Youtube videos or tutorials that you would recommend for learning how to use an airbrush?

cheers - mark
 

Tyler P

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I use the Iwata Eclipse gravity feed airbrush for the majority of my painting now, but I did used to use the Paasche Talon before I switched. The Talon is a little less expensive but I really prefer the Eclipse for how much more smoothly it sprays and how smooth the trigger action is.

Airbrushing on the low and mid-power stuff is just nicer, especially because of the acrylics. I spray year round. No fumes to stink up the place, although I do recommend wearing a particle mask so you don't inhale the paint itself.

The paint definitely goes a lot further and you can get so many more colours.
 

Greg Furtman

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This is a timely bump. I was just out yesterday picking up some more spray cans and I swear the price goes up every time I buy them. Here in the Great White North I'm paying $10 / can.

I'm guessing an airbrush and acrylic paint would be cheaper for LPR rockets than spray cans. I get lots of overspray with the cans and the smell is obnoxious as well.

I've already got a 60 gallon compressor in my rocket workshop. What airbrush would you recommend for a beginner? Any Youtube videos or tutorials that you would recommend for learning how to use an airbrush?

cheers - mark
@markg Tyler inspired me last year with some of his great paint jobs so I bought a airbrush kit and some paints. It is amazing how little paint one actually needs and like Tyler says, no stink and it dries pretty fast.
Here's the airbrush I bought.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002J4IUCK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've been using Creatix paints along with their flow improver and their waterd-based urethane additive.

If you don't get a decent spray I found out the paint is too thick. I've also been using Future floor wax (not wax, it is a clear acrylic coating) for my final coats. Here's my first attempt on a LPR and it turned out pretty good.


Arapahoe3.jpg
 

markg

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@markg Tyler inspired me last year with some of his great paint jobs so I bought a airbrush kit and some paints. It is amazing how little paint one actually needs and like Tyler says, no stink and it dries pretty fast.
Here's the airbrush I bought.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002J4IUCK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Nice, thanks for the info. What do you do for seam filling? Right now I'm using thinned wood filler + primer, I'm guessing I'll still need to use the wood filler - do you use a primer or just go straight to the Creatix color paint?
 

Tyler P

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Personally, on smaller stuff, I use plastic putty that you would use in plastic modelling for filling imperfections, but you can use any number of things.

On larger rockets, glazing putty used in autobody work apparently works very well.
 

Greg Furtman

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Nice, thanks for the info. What do you do for seam filling? Right now I'm using thinned wood filler + primer, I'm guessing I'll still need to use the wood filler - do you use a primer or just go straight to the Creatix color paint?
I still use CWF for a filler. Creatix makes a acrylic primer. I have also used and had good luck with Zinsser B-I-N Shellac based primer.
 

Tyler P

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How do you go about prepping and painting the nose cone?
I will generally cut any flashing off with a hobby knife and then give it a good sanding sanding. Typically 220 grit down to 400 and I'll fill any imperfections with plastic putty.

For priming, I've tried a few things. I find that acrylic primer doesn't really work well on LOC nose cones, even after sanding, so I will usually use Tamiya Fine Surface primer. It's a necessary evil I'm finding that has to be done with their cones. It's the type of plastic. A good automotive spray primer will also work.
 

Greg Furtman

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I will generally cut any flashing off with a hobby knife and then give it a good sanding sanding. Typically 220 grit down to 400 and I'll fill any imperfections with plastic putty.

For priming, I've tried a few things. I find that acrylic primer doesn't really work well on LOC nose cones, even after sanding, so I will usually use Tamiya Fine Surface primer. It's a necessary evil I'm finding that has to be done with their cones. It's the type of plastic. A good automotive spray primer will also work.
@Tyler P Have you ever used a plastic adhesion promoter and then tried an acrylic over it? I've done it with enamel and the results were good. Wondering if it would help with an acrylic.
 

Tyler P

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@Tyler P Have you ever used a plastic adhesion promoter and then tried an acrylic over it? I've done it with enamel and the results were good. Wondering if it would help with an acrylic.
I have not. What adhesion promoter have you used? I'll have to give it a try!
 

Tractionengines

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Tyler, did you get a chance to fly the IRIS yet? We finished up a 1.6" and a 2.25". I have sim'd a lot. But wanted to get first hand feedback on minimum motors. This seems to be "over stable" with those big fins. So if no/very low wind it can tolerate slow liftoffs. If too much wind and not enough speed it WILL weathercock. I did build with 1" rail buttons.

Your paint jobs are amazing. We just rattle can them to be easy for 5 & 8 year olds to find...lol
20201105_154224.jpg
 

Tyler P

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Tyler, did you get a chance to fly the IRIS yet? We finished up a 1.6" and a 2.25". I have sim'd a lot. But wanted to get first hand feedback on minimum motors. This seems to be "over stable" with those big fins. So if no/very low wind it can tolerate slow liftoffs. If too much wind and not enough speed it WILL weathercock. I did build with 1" rail buttons.

Your paint jobs are amazing. We just rattle can them to be easy for 5 & 8 year olds to find...lol
View attachment 437459
Thanks for the kind words! No, I haven't flown it, but I had planned on an E15-4W until that little chuff happened, lol. I flew the park-flyer Black Brant X on the E15 and it flew great, so probably just a bit more altitude with the PF IRIS.

Nothing wrong with rattle can jobs! My main reason for airbrushing is the ability to use fume-free paint in my basement. I'd probably prime with rattle cans if it wasn't for fumes and not having a fume hood.
 

Tractionengines

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Tyler, hope you don't mind me hijacking your thread...
Flew them both today. 1 flight each. It was a little breezy ~8mph +/- at times.
I flew the 1.6" on a E30-7. Nice flight, nice ejection timing, came back and landed about 50yards away.
The 2.25" flew what should have been F42-4 (I kept switching if I wanted the -7 or -4 delay. Went with the -4 in case it weathercocked and didn't reach altitude.) The issue was it was about a -1, it blew the chute right after burn out. Good news was it survived the high speed deployment, bad news was in the middle of a 200 acre field it landed square on 1 fin right on the only access road. Broke the fin. Oh well; its fixable.
Will get some photos, and post videos to YouTube later this weekend.
I think I will upsize both chutes. I would rather walk a little more, and protect those big exposed fins with slower descent speed.
Mike
 

Tyler P

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Tyler, hope you don't mind me hijacking your thread...
Flew them both today. 1 flight each. It was a little breezy ~8mph +/- at times.
I flew the 1.6" on a E30-7. Nice flight, nice ejection timing, came back and landed about 50yards away.
The 2.25" flew what should have been F42-4 (I kept switching if I wanted the -7 or -4 delay. Went with the -4 in case it weathercocked and didn't reach altitude.) The issue was it was about a -1, it blew the chute right after burn out. Good news was it survived the high speed deployment, bad news was in the middle of a 200 acre field it landed square on 1 fin right on the only access road. Broke the fin. Oh well; its fixable.
Will get some photos, and post videos to YouTube later this weekend.
I think I will upsize both chutes. I would rather walk a little more, and protect those big exposed fins with slower descent speed.
Mike
Nice! Glad you got a couple of good flights! Too bad about the fin, but that's all part of the fun, haha!
 
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