Loc caliber instructions

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Hello all,

New to the forum. Looking for good instructions for my caliber. The ones that came with it are not that great. Thanks for your help
LOC/Precision is infamous for having poor or no instructions, despite the designs actually being pretty awesome.

Have you got a specific question or are you just looking for general information about how the rocket goes together?
 
TBH (to be honest) if you are building a High Power or MidPower rocket, you should already have enough knowledge from building LowPower/Model Rocket that even rudimentary instructions should be plenty. Some HPR kits come with even less directions than LOC kits (not that I find LOCs instructions all that bad) or even no instructions.
 
LOC/Precision is infamous for having poor or no instructions, despite the designs actually being pretty awesome.

Have you got a specific question or are you just looking for general information about how the rocket goes together?
Really looking for motor mount build. Top ring has 2 notches in it. Does the shock cord go between there? If so do you epoxy it to the tube. Thanks
 
Really looking for motor mount build. Top ring has 2 notches in it. Does the shock cord go between there? If so do you epoxy it to the tube. Thanks
The Caliber-ISP ? That puppy has a baffle with a screw eye for the shock cord. Don’t glue the shock cord to the motor mount. The slotted centering ring is probably a standard part used in other models that don’t have the baffle. FWIW LOC customer service is very good if you want to double check with them. :)


https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...-60_Caliber-ISP_Instructions.pdf?v=1623760275
 
It's been a very long time since I've flown rockets (30) plus years I live in New Hampshire so I go to Vermont and Mass. Not in an organization or anything. How about yourself?
 
Ha, there is something about the 30+ year gap. I returned to my childhood hobby in 2006 after a similar layoff, joined the local NAR club, and been a regular ever since. Are you looking to take the high power plunge with the Caliber?
 
While some of the info on the RocketReviews site can be a bit dated there’s a lot of good stuff that can be helpful. Here’s a review of the Caliber

https://www.rocketreviews.com/locprecision-caliber-isp--by-jeff-kelly.html
One of the go-to sites for HPR info is John Coker’s Rocketry Site - IDK if he specifically addresses LOC kits but there’s lots of general building tips

http://www.jcrocket.com/
And you could spend hours and hours reading and watching everything Tim Van Milligan has accumulated on the Apogee Components site

https://www.apogeerockets.com/
As others have already written most HPR kits come with very general instructions - the assumption being that if you’re building their kit you’ve come up through the ranks of model rocketry and already have the basic knowledge of hobby rocket construction. If you’d like to try a kit from a source with some of the best instructions regardless of the size of the rocket take a look Scott Binder’s Fusion Rocketry kits

https://www.fusionrocket.biz/
 
Ha, there is something about the 30+ year gap. I returned to my childhood hobby in 2006 after a similar layoff, joined the local NAR club, and been a regular ever since. Are you looking to take the high power plunge with the Caliber?
I'm hoping to. Level 1 cert maybe this summer. Lots of Rockets to test. Some high-power some not.
 
Have tried to log into Binder Designs / fusionrocketry.biz the past few days, but now can't even access their website. Has something happened? Have they shut down? Sad, if so. . .
 
Have tried to log into Binder Designs / fusionrocketry.biz the past few days, but now can't even access their website. Has something happened? Have they shut down? Sad, if so. . .
Works fine. You are spelling it wrong.
 
Scott @ Fusion designs great looking kits, however he cuts corners with the 3D printed nose cones and tube couplers which weaken the design substantially, even after coating the parts in epoxy in the instructions (tried it on his Scud kit, nose cone still broke in half easily when it fell on the floor). If those were normal parts like every other manufacturer, the kits would be top notch. My last kit was a little BT60 Thor and I had to source a coupler and nose that would fit his odd-sized tubing to get away from the printed ones.
 
Scott @ Fusion designs great looking kits, however he cuts corners with the 3D printed nose cones and tube couplers which weaken the design substantially, even after coating the parts in epoxy in the instructions (tried it on his Scud kit, nose cone still broke in half easily when it fell on the floor). If those were normal parts like every other manufacturer, the kits would be top notch. My last kit was a little BT60 Thor and I had to source a coupler and nose that would fit his odd-sized tubing to get away from the printed ones.
Thank you for the input. Had already planned, should I get a kit, on a [replacement] FWFG Wildman nose cone; was unaware the coupler was 3-D printed as well. (An alternative step would be, if you don't 'need' the NC space, to scuff the internal aspect of the cone with coarse sandpaper, then fill it with self-adhesive self-expanding urethane foam. Still not as strong as a Wildman, but a big improvement nevertheless.)
 
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If you go way back, there is also BSD Rocketry. I have both a BSD Thor that I repaired and a SBR version of the Thor that I aquired at a club swap meet. BSD was a frequent vendor at California launches.
 
If you go way back, there is also BSD Rocketry. I have both a BSD Thor that I repaired and a SBR version of the Thor that I aquired at a club swap meet. BSD was a frequent vendor at California launches.
I miss my BSD Thor. I don't understand why he feels the need to do that big ass vinyl wrap for the upper section on the new ones when all it is is just two name decals. Bunch of wasted black ink for the background which looks quite noticeable when you paint the nose cone black
 
I miss my BSD Thor. I don't understand why he feels the need to do that big ass vinyl wrap for the upper section on the new ones when all it is is just two name decals. Bunch of wasted black ink for the background which looks quite noticeable when you paint the nose cone black
I don't understand (how ignorant am I?) - is the vinyl decal even glossier than the black paint? Cannot the decal be trimmed a bit short, then feather the two 'blacks' so they meld? Also, are the two Thors that different (I do want one, the 4"/54mm MMT version)? My cluelessness has no bounds. . .
 
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