LiPo battery recommendations

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tmorgenthaler

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I've ordered a Eggtimer Quantum kit, and Cris recommends a 2S LiPo battery of at least 300 mah. I'm looking on Amazon for one, but of course I don't neccessarily trust the reviews. Some people are like "Oh, this one is awesome" and then you have others that say, "DO NOT BUY, arrived DOA."

Are there any brands that you use are your go to for these, or are they pretty much all the same, made in China, and you're rolling the dice.

I was looking at this one, as it comes in a two pack, but there are a few of those DOA reviews.

Thanks for any advice.
 

mtnmanak

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I have had good luck with the Turnigy brand over at HobbyKing.


When you go to their site, you can go to the Batteries page and use the filters on the left to dial in what you are looking for.

I also uncheck "EU" and "Global" for warehouses in the filters, since I am in the US. I have ordered items from them that were in the "Global" warehouse and it took weeks to get the product. If it is in stock in the US warehouse, you usually get it within a few days.

For Quantums, I usually use a 450mAh battery if it is going to be a single flight for the day. If I plan on multiple flights, a 850mAh usually lasts all day. Obviously, you should check your voltage before each flight with a multimeter.

Also, I put my Eggtimers on a switch, even if they have the WiFi connectivity. If you don't use a switch, the computer is "on" as soon as you connect the battery. The WiFi modules on Quantums and Protons use quite a bit of juice. So, if you are prepping your rocket and it is an hour from the time you close up the Ebay to the time you get it out on the pad (that happens a lot, especially if pads are backed up), the WiFi module on your Quantum is happily sucking up power for that hour while it is doing nothing. I prefer to turn on the computers at the pad, wait for it to come online (could take up to a minute) and then proceed as normal with arming it. That way you know the battery hasn't been drained while you were waiting around. I also prefer to use a separate deployment battery, but that is not necessary.
 

mtnmanak

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I used to buy E-Flite batteries off Amazon and had good luck with them, but they don't seem to have them anymore. When I have needed a battery quickly from Amazon (and didn't want to wait for Hobby King), the Ovionic brand has worked well. I have 4 of their batteries and none have failed on me.
 

StreuB1

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I used to buy E-Flite batteries off Amazon and had good luck with them, but they don't seem to have them anymore. When I have needed a battery quickly from Amazon (and didn't want to wait for Hobby King), the Ovionic brand has worked well. I have 4 of their batteries and none have failed on me.

I just bought a (2) pack of Venom 2S 300mAh batteries with JST connectors a week or so ago to begin testing out. They are smaller than a 9v and way lighter. I am not concerned about the mass, but the power output per unit volume will be very helpful with my WM J4, MW Mach 2, and my Madcow Nike-Apache sustainer.

I have yet to try them out but I imagine they will do the business. Thing I need to consider is if I trust them with my Missileworks electronics or do I put in a 1 ohm ballast resistor to assure the current stays limited...... If so, then I am adding more electrical connections, solder joints to the match leads, etc. Not keen on that TBH.....

This is what I bought...

 

tmorgenthaler

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I have had good luck with the Turnigy brand over at HobbyKing.


When you go to their site, you can go to the Batteries page and use the filters on the left to dial in what you are looking for.

I also uncheck "EU" and "Global" for warehouses in the filters, since I am in the US. I have ordered items from them that were in the "Global" warehouse and it took weeks to get the product. If it is in stock in the US warehouse, you usually get it within a few days.

For Quantums, I usually use a 450mAh battery if it is going to be a single flight for the day. If I plan on multiple flights, a 850mAh usually lasts all day. Obviously, you should check your voltage before each flight with a multimeter.

Also, I put my Eggtimers on a switch, even if they have the WiFi connectivity. If you don't use a switch, the computer is "on" as soon as you connect the battery. The WiFi modules on Quantums and Protons use quite a bit of juice. So, if you are prepping your rocket and it is an hour from the time you close up the Ebay to the time you get it out on the pad (that happens a lot, especially if pads are backed up), the WiFi module on your Quantum is happily sucking up power for that hour while it is doing nothing. I prefer to turn on the computers at the pad, wait for it to come online (could take up to a minute) and then proceed as normal with arming it. That way you know the battery hasn't been drained while you were waiting around. I also prefer to use a separate deployment battery, but that is not necessary.
Cool, thanks, I'll take a look on Hobby King. I was already planning on putting a switch for the avionics. I understand that the Quantum ( or at least I think I do ) has a built in wifi switch, but it would make sense not to rely on that and have the battery draining. On the flip side of that, I guess you have to worry about turning on two switches at that point.... the physical switch, and then the WiFi switch.
 

waltr

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I have been using the Turnigy Nano-tech 2S LiPo from hobby King for DD, Quarks and Quantums.
The 350mA-hr has worked great so any of these in the 280 to 450mA-Hr will work.

One thing to check is the Discharge C rating. This gives the maximum current output, multiple C rating times the capacity. Example: 300mA-Hr times C35 = 10.5Amp which will fire any Ematch and many motor ignites.
If C rating is very low or not spec'ed then probably has a current limiter circuit which we do not want.
Most LiPo's sold to power RC planes, copters, etc do not have current limiting circuit and are what we want to fire ematches.

I really like the Quantum and do use a screw switch to connect/disconnect power without opening the Ebay.
I connect ematches (no BP charge) turn on Quantum and login with my phone to check continuity. If connections/ematches are good then power off and install BP charges.
Take rocket out to pad and put onto rail. Turn on Quantum and re-check continuity. Install motor igniter.
Now enter Arm code and Arm, wait for the Quantum to do the 'cricket chirping' indicating it is ready for launch. CLOSE the web browser on the phone and retreat to safe distance for launch.

After landing and finding rocket, turn off switch.
Later, turn on and login to see flight stats. Download data to phone.
Once at home I email the Data file to myself for further analysis.
 

catman001

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I have been using the "Glacier" brand from "Buddy RC" for a number of years and have had very good luck with them. I use them in drones, boats, and rocket electronics with zero failures. ( I have no connection to them, just like their batteries. ) They have a 2s, 25c, 450 mah battery, that I use in many of my rocket electronics. At $6.00, I don't think the quality or price can be beat.

buddyrc.com
 

mh9162013

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I've had good experiences with Turnigy nano-tech cells from HobbyKing.
 

Tractionengines

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I use this one from hobby king.
Screenshot_20220512-233853_Chrome.jpg

I fly at small launches, so waiting at the pads is only a few minutes. These have enough time for what I do. (I think I do have 6 of them, so if voltage is close to rated, pull it, and swap in another...)
 

Kane

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I use Venom 2S 7.4V 430 mAh LiPos for my Quantums except for those in smaller airframes where I use their 300 mAh offering. I've been pretty happy with the Venom LiPos.
 

akrachanko

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Turnigy is a very reputable LiPo brand in the RC community, and what I was recommeneded by a friend who builds RC crawlers. @waltr made great points about the C rating of a battery, and it's definitely something to look into and understand. In my expeince, most 2S LiPo's should have a reasonable C rating, but if you look at 1S cells, be more cautious, as a lot of them have the protection circuits in place.
 

SecondRow

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I use Turnigy as well. You can find them on Amazon, but they will likely be pricier than hobby king. I have Prime, though, so Hobby King always ends up costing more.
 

Charles_McG

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I like the Turnigy 45-90C - but they are a little harder to find.

I've tried the Venom several times, but I only seem to get one flight out of them before one cell goes bad.
 

akrachanko

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I highly recommend familiarizing yourself with LiPos, how all the different capacities and ratings relate, and the proper ways to charge/discharge/store them before you even think about using them in a rocket. I used to fly drones, and I killed so many LiPos simply because I just assumed a battery was just a battery. LiPos are not “just a battery.” They are sensitive and have feelings basically, and need taken care of regularly. (Sorry, this is not a battery recommendation, just a comment I felt relevant. LiPos aren’t cheap… I know from experience.)
 

David Schwantz

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On the switch thing, I have 37 Quantums. Ok, maybe 35. But I always use a separate switch other than the WiFi one. Just turn on the switch after you stand your rocket up, wait about 30 seconds and then you can arm the WiFi switch. And it is NOT, that I do not trust the WiFi switch, just a firm believer in a physical disconnect.
 

mtnmanak

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On the switch thing, I have 37 Quantums. Ok, maybe 35. But I always use a separate switch other than the WiFi one. Just turn on the switch after you stand your rocket up, wait about 30 seconds and then you can arm the WiFi switch. And it is NOT, that I do not trust the WiFi switch, just a firm believer in a physical disconnect.

Another reason I like a physical switch between the battery and the computer - Eggtimers do not shut off when a LiPo gets down to 3.0V or less. This has been discussed and this is a feature, not a bug (basically, the idea is that you would rather ruin a battery than have a rocket crash). In the only rocket I did not use a physical switch (the rocket has a Quantum), twice I forgot I had a battery in there after a launch and opened the Ebay up later at home to a dead and puffy LiPo. After ruining two batteries, I put a physical switch on that rocket.

Having the switch won't automatically prevent you from leaving it on, but I always turn the computer off when I recover the rocket, both out of habit and so I don't have to listen to altimeters beeping in my ear while I walk back. With no physical switch, I told myself both times to remember to pull the ebay apart and disconnect the battery when I got back to my table, but both times something came up right when I got back and I put the rocket down and forgot about it.

If you read this and think "yeah, but you're just an old idiot that can't remember anything", you would be correct. Which is why I need a switch.
 
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Charles_McG

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Another reason I like a physical switch between the battery and the computer - Eggtimers do not shut off when a LiPo gets down to 3.0V or less. This has been discussed and this is a feature, not a bug (basically, the idea is that you would rather ruin a battery than have a rocket crash). In the only rocket I did not use a physical switch (the rocket has a Quantum), twice I forgot I had a battery in there after a launch and opened the Ebay up later at home to a dead and puffy LiPo. After ruining two batteries, I put a physical switch on that rocket.

Having the switch won't automatically prevent you from leaving it on, but I always turn the computer off when I recover the rocket, both out of habit and so I don't have to listen to altimeters beeping in my ear while I walk back. With no physical switch (I didn't have my phone with me either time), I told myself both times to remember to pull the ebay apart and disconnect the battery when I got back to my table, but both times something came up right when I got back and I put the rocket down and forgot about it.

If you read this and think "yeah, but you're just an old idiot that can't remember anything", you would be correct. Which is why I need a switch.
I have the same problem - but with recovering rockets from trees after a few days.
 

waltr

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Yep, I have also forgot to turn it off only to have a dead LiPo days later. Once a LiPo cell goes too far below 3V it will puff and not come back.
 

eugenefl

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Wisdom comes to us in 1 of 3 ways: 1 - Read, 2 - Ask Someone, 3 - Experience.

If I had to guess, 92.386% of first time LiPo users gain wisdom via #3. (Not gonna lie - I learned via #3.) Now, in all fairness, battery tech "jumped the shark" when LiPo battery tech came along and for some reason actually made things less convenient. The evolution of batteries went from "hey, uses this til it dies then throw away (i.e. single use)", then version two which was "when it goes weak, put it back on a charger, rinse and repeat, grieve the day I don't power back on", to where we are today which is "say sweet nothings and I might work else I'll burn your house down and kill everyone inside...or maybe you'll get 1 use out of me and learn to gain some wisdom by reading instructions or asking someone for advice before buying or using."
 

RocketPro

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If you are going to use LiPo’s, invest in a good (SkyRC) battery charger. It can check cells, condition them, and set them for storage properly at the touch of a few menus. It can also charge many types of secondary batteries of differing chemistries.
 

OverTheTop

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Anything from Hobby King, including Nano Tech, works well for me. I do treat them as expendable though, as I like to keep them charged and that shortens their life. If they puff up or won't hold charge they get changed out. A not infrequent occurrence.

I do like lithium primary cells and will possibly switch to them at some stage, when I am fed up with LiPos.
 

David Schwantz

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Even though I probably use LiPo's Larger than most on here, do NOT go cheap on a charger. Buy the best you can for the size batteries that you will use. Otherwise, someday you will buy it again. Buy something that will balance, discharge, store, cycle. You can buy a charge bag, flame proof, to charge your batteries in. You can get chargers with multi ports for charging, that way can charge more than one at a time. Use good quality connectors and wiring. Do NOT ever leave home with them charging.
Mine is an I Charger 4010 Duo. Will do 10 s cells, multiple batteries at the same time, An ungodly amount of amps.
 

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Sandy H.

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I was just considering batteries today after an Eggtimer project. Seems like there are lots of recommendations for 2S LiPo's. I have a decent charger for my RC trucks that does 1S-6S, balancing etc., but I honestly would prefer to just use a 9V for rocket stuff, as I really don't like the possible instability of LiPo's. One of my phone reminders is to run a storage charge on my truck batteries every 3 months. Part of me is thinking of a fireproof safe to store them in. After all is said and done, I'd like a different solution for my rockets. I'm not a performance junkie, so a little heavier and dead simple is something I'd prefer. But, I've heard 9V batteries today aren't what they used to be, so maybe moving to a modern technology is in my future. Bummer.

Sandy.

[edit]

PS: In hindsight, I don't know enough about fireproof safes to even know if that is a logical idea. . .They are rated to protect for a certain time and temperature condition from the outside to the inside, but I'm not sure how the ratings could change when going the other way. Seems like it could be a good way to make things that start burning to hold heat in and get hotter than otherwise planned. If they are also waterproof, might make for a bit of a pressure cooker and that might be even worse when it failed. . . any insights appreciated.

[/edit]
 
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tmorgenthaler

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I was just considering batteries today after an Eggtimer project. Seems like there are lots of recommendations for 2S LiPo's. I have a decent charger for my RC trucks that does 1S-6S, balancing etc., but I honestly would prefer to just use a 9V for rocket stuff, as I really don't like the possible instability of LiPo's. One of my phone reminders is to run a storage charge on my truck batteries every 3 months. Part of me is thinking of a fireproof safe to store them in. After all is said and done, I'd like a different solution for my rockets. I'm not a performance junkie, so a little heavier and dead simple is something I'd prefer. But, I've heard 9V batteries today aren't what they used to be, so maybe moving to a modern technology is in my future. Bummer.

Sandy.
If you read the Eggtimer directions, Cris specifically says not to use 9V batteries.

’Note: We strongly recommend that you do NOT use a 9V alkaline battery with your Quantum. Most 9V alkaline batteries are only good for 100 mAH, so you may get less than 60 minutes of use out of one. We realize that they ARE easy to get and they ARE convenient because you don’t have to mess with charging them, but having an expensive rocket lawn-dart into the ground because of a weak battery is not something we like to see.’
 

OverTheTop

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There is also this discussion:
 

Sandy H.

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If you read the Eggtimer directions, Cris specifically says not to use 9V batteries.

’Note: We strongly recommend that you do NOT use a 9V alkaline battery with your Quantum. Most 9V alkaline batteries are only good for 100 mAH, so you may get less than 60 minutes of use out of one. We realize that they ARE easy to get and they ARE convenient because you don’t have to mess with charging them, but having an expensive rocket lawn-dart into the ground because of a weak battery is not something we like to see.’

Understood and that is part of the reason I started looking into the options. I always ran 9V batteries with my other 3 DD altimeters and never had a problem, but that is historical information at this point, as I haven't flown them for deployment for years. Never had a problem when I did, but that doesn't mean that currently available products match ones available 10 years ago (batteries, not electronics. We know the electronics are always getting new features etc.).

Sandy.
 

David Schwantz

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Hi Sandy, I store all my LiPos in metal ammo cans. NOT plastic. I also have a flame proof charge bag. But with that being said, LiPos are pretty safe. Charge them as they should be, don't damage them. When they first came out tried to make one burn. Stabbed with Exacto, tried several times. Did finally get one to ignite. It was not a huge ball of flame, it did not explode. It had a burst at first until pressure bleed off, then burned just as if something on fire. But, I do personally know a club member that had a fire, in his house, due to one. Model plane club, not rocket club.
Just any brand LiPo are good for a rocket. There is not a huge amp draw. When you get to EDF jets, or RC car racing you need a high C rating Battery. I have some 6s 5300mah that are rated at 100c. these run in EDF's that fly on 12s. Turnigy from Hobby King are what I use most for rockets.
 
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