Here is my 'old reliable' 1976 vintage ESTES Maxi Brute 4" V2, launching on an F21-6W.
It is in the shop right now, as repeated AP motor ejection charges have cooked the stiffer tube. I am rebuilding the mm with a BT50H heavy wall tube that is soaked in CA.
This rocket was built as light as possible. Fins are stock, and the only mods are: double engine hooks, 36" ESTES nylon chute from a Designer's Special, 36" of 3/8" elastic shock chord, and a CA soak of the body tube .
Here's a 1/35 PMC V2. This started out in realistic mottled camouflage which didn't help recovery when it seaparted on its first flight. Both parts were recovered, although weeks apart. I rebuilt and repainted in a bright White Sands scheme. Great on D12-5s!
Here is a picture of my unfinished V2. It's a BT55 Scale model. I got plans from the old Estes Kit on Jim Z's site and asked another group for body tube sizes before building. The original Estes tube was 4" or 101mm I cut mine to 78mm and used the small fins in the plan to get closer to scale. Possibly a mistake. A computer sim suggests that it is only stable by 1 caliber when loaded with a 18mm C6-5 or 1.4 calibers with a B6-4. I've not been able to find any B6-4's so I'll attempt 1 launch with a C6.
BTW I epoxied 2 oz. of lead into the nose. I am at the max weight for a B6/C6, 113g. I got the nose and boattail from BMS. The nose was already predrilled but I had to make a little more room by carving out a little more so I could use a 15 inch mylar chute in it.
Shown with the white base color. I intend to finish with the black checkerboard pattern from October '42 and detail the edges etc.
Another pic of the above BT55 V2. This is just showing the filling work on the naked boattail. I found this featherweight filler that is fantastic. sticks to everything and when coated with sanding dope it turns hock hard. You see the white ring easing the end of the Boat tail to the motor tube... I used J-Flis tube. I love his parts too and he is a real choice when considering parts these days. I post again when detailing is finished and let everyone know if it flies.
Here's mine all Estes. The small one is a bt-55 I built in '67 or '68(Jr. High) I even brushed it olive drab!!!! The others are a bt-80 and a Maxi-Brute that are 18 or so years old. I never got around to painting them! I guess I still have time to... loojack
Here is mine. Estes 4inch (modified) and the Loc 4inch V-2. This also includes pictures of some of my other rockets. (I originally used this picture to email somebody with and I'm too lazy to go back and resize the actual picture).
tape off your rocket and really push down the tape. If you still think it might seep under, take some of the base coat and paint the rocket with the masking on there, this will build up the edges so on the topcoat there will be no seeping. If the base color got under your masking, it doesnt matter because it wont be noticable, because it is the same color as the color is got onto.
Ditto what Ryan said about spraying the base coat over the masking tape.
If you get through the whole thing perfectly and chip a bit as you're pulling away the last piece of tape ()been there, done that), you can paint decal film and use this to cover up any imperfections. You can also use this for stripes.
Ditto on Ryans comments with one addition. If you have a multi color pattern, a coat of matte clear will seal the tape without the possibilty of lifting the freshly applied colors, that matte finish also leans a little easy to inspecting these areas before applying the 2nd or third color.
Why matte clear instead of gloss you might ask? Matte clears flash off the thinners and solvents very quickly, less potential lift damage to the underlaying paints and primers.
o, and another thing, peel the tape off slowly and maybe very carefully score the edge of the masking so it doesnt peel paint with it. Convienently, if some paint comes up, the checks on V2s are black so just fill in the voids with a sharpie