Let's see your Jawstand - Rail adapters

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Here's mine. I combined a number of features from the many posts above. I have three rails - one six footer and two four footers. The one four footer has rail connectors installed on three sides for quick attachment in the field. That way I can do a six foot rail, an eight foot rail or a ten foot rail, depending on the exit velocity I need. Last step, I am going to do an add-on that will sit on top of the existing wood structure when in the horizontal position (without the rail) which will have four keyless drill chucks installed for using any size launch rod. That way I can switch from LPR/MPR (launch lugs) to MPR/HPR (rail buttons) in about 2 minutes. Then I just need to build the multi-launch controller...

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Here is mine. Nothing really different, here. I copied everything found in this thread!

I cut off the bottom of the 2x6 so that it would not interfere with the legs in any way when the center shaft is at its lowest position, ie touching the ground. After thinking about it, I then added an extension to the 2x6 to give some more options for mounting the blast plate.

I also made the option to attach a 1/2" rod to use as an adapter on the club's pads instead of the Jawstand.

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Wow - hit the jackpot with this thread. This morning was wondering how I'd eventually build up a rail launch pad, and now I've got a clearance JawStand from Menard's in my shop, and a 1010 rail and attachments to pick up tomorrow at Grainger. Great ideas - really love to see them all plus the evolution over time - thanks everyone for posting. Will put up some pics when I get mine done.
 
Members:

Here are photos of my completed Rockwell Launch Stand.

I used 3” #10 caster screws to attach the 2 X 6 board to the rail

I bought the 8’ 1010 rail at a local Grainger for $35.

The Stand cost me $55 from Ebay.

The deflector plate is 12 X 12” attached to a 45 degree angled bracket. I’m using a 1010 stand off.

Thanks to the members that gave me ideas and suggestions.


Nilo
 

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Wow - hit the jackpot with this thread. This morning was wondering how I'd eventually build up a rail launch pad, and now I've got a clearance JawStand from Menard's in my shop, and a 1010 rail and attachments to pick up tomorrow at Grainger. Great ideas - really love to see them all plus the evolution over time - thanks everyone for posting. Will put up some pics when I get mine done.


I'll like to see photos of your completed launch pad.
 
Pics of my finished JawStand launcher below. Copied everyone's great ideas and made a couple modifications... this version uses a 2x4 standoff for the rail which is then compressed with two carriage bolts onto a plywood piece that's permanently bolted down to the surface of the jawstand. (ala @SMR @Mike Haberer).

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I used a sheet of 22 gauge steel to make the deflector, and mounted it onto an 80/20 L bracket which can be put into the 'front' slot of the rail in order to slide up and down to match the position of the rocket standoff bracket, or be mounted in the 'rear' slot where it is permanently at the bottom of the rail but is recessed somewhat relative to the CenterLine of the rocket.
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I liked @Mike Haberer's idea of removing the rail then having a piece that fits over the rail mount to hold launch rods... I made mine a little differently and the mount just has two sides... one side is used to mount the rail using the two carriage bolts, and if you flip it over (it's not permanently fixed to the base) I added holes for common launch rod diameters 1/8 through 1/2. (Once flipped over this clamps down with the same carriage bolts). I also added a horizontal level bubble on one side for the launch rods, and a vertical level bubble on the other side for the rail - to help get oriented on uneven ground.

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Now that I've got it done, it's just about to get seriously cold in Michigan for the next three months :(
But that's ok - will give me a chance to build some stuff that really needs to be rail-launched - looking forward to spring!
 
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My Jawstand based launcher is almost done. I removed the plastic top surfaces, and put some 1/4 20 rivnuts into the steel structure. I secured the rail to a piece of .25" Aluminum plate. I just need to replace the one rivnut that I screwed up during installation, and figure out a good blast deflector.

I'm thinking about just using a 80/20 bracket and some more aluminum plate for the blast deflector, but if anyone has a better idea that doesn't involve bending sheet metal, I'm all ears.20210213_162927.jpg20210213_163010_HDR.jpg20210213_163019.jpg
 
Catching up on some Forum activity.
I assume you all have no problems with your Jaw Stand ...HOWEVER you built it. Mine works great
Easy to load...... and Pivot back up for launch.

Thanks for the "like" Rory Gin
 

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I just chucked an $887 chunk of 2x4 lumber into it. And through bolted the guts of an old 1980 Estes launchpad to it.

I'm still figuring out the whole rail bit. As soon as I figure out what a mini rail is, I'll bolt it to the other side.
 

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Here's mine. I combined a number of features from the many posts above. I have three rails - one six footer and two four footers. The one four footer has rail connectors installed on three sides for quick attachment in the field. That way I can do a six foot rail, an eight foot rail or a ten foot rail, depending on the exit velocity I need. Last step, I am going to do an add-on that will sit on top of the existing wood structure when in the horizontal position (without the rail) which will have four keyless drill chucks installed for using any size launch rod. That way I can switch from LPR/MPR (launch lugs) to MPR/HPR (rail buttons) in about 2 minutes. Then I just need to build the multi-launch controller...

View attachment 380996 View attachment 380997 View attachment 380998 View attachment 380999
UPDATE: I had made an add-on for mine to replace the rail with a four rod configuration. It was a quick changeover, but it became a nuisance as I couldn't do both rod and rail at the same time.

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So I decided to do a quick mod. Now I can do three rods and a rail concurrently, which which is just right for my 4 unit relay launcher.

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I love my rockwell jawstand.
 

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UPDATE: I had made an add-on for mine to replace the rail with a four rod configuration. It was a quick changeover, but it became a nuisance as I couldn't do both rod and rail at the same time.

View attachment 470076

So I decided to do a quick mod. Now I can do three rods and a rail concurrently, which which is just right for my 4 unit relay launcher.

View attachment 470077
UPDATE: I had made an add-on for mine to replace the rail with a four rod configuration. It was a quick changeover, but it became a nuisance as I couldn't do both rod and rail at the same time.

View attachment 470076

So I decided to do a quick mod. Now I can do three rods and a rail concurrently, which which is just right for my 4 unit relay launcher.

View attachment 470077
that is a thing of beauty
 
Anyone happen to know what a safe torque would be when tightening rail hardware? I'm using Grainger's T-nut plates and 1/4" hex-head screws to join two pieces of 1010 rail. My tendency is to tighten the daylights out of these, but I'd hate to strip the threads or twist off a screw head.

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Anyone happen to know what a safe torque would be when tightening rail hardware? I'm using Grainger's T-nut plates and 1/4" hex-head screws to join two pieces of 1010 rail. My tendency is to tighten the daylights out of these, but I'd hate to strip the threads or twist off a screw head.

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You are overthinking it, tighten to snug and thats plenty.
 
Work in progress. It keepschanging based on this thread!
 

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What do you guys think of having the jaw stand kept horizontal as a launchpad? Slightly higher profile but would be more balanced
 
What do you guys think of having the jaw stand kept horizontal as a launchpad? Slightly higher profile but would be more balanced
If you stake the legs, it won't matter. My club has 12 jawstands, all go vertical for launch. We launch everything through K's on them. Only L's and up go on the bigger launch platforms. You can always do this...

Jawstand Leg Extension Idea #1.jpg

or this...

Jawstand Leg Extension Idea #2.jpg

to enhance stability...
 
I can't find any RK9033's around me, just the RK9034. Price aside, is there a reason I would want the RK9033 over the RK9034?
 
I use mine for actual home construction work not just as a rocket stand so I went with the heavier RK9034. The additional weight adds a bit of strudiness to the launcher before requiring it to be pegged. One thing I don't like people doing is extending the mount for the rail so far to the side of the centre post. This means an eccentric force and makes it much more susceptible to tipping. Keep the rail mounted as close to the centre post as you can.
 
What do you guys think of having the jaw stand kept horizontal as a launchpad? Slightly higher profile but would be more balanced
I use my stand in 2 modes - vertical and horizontal. The wood base serves to attach the 1010 rail and has holes for 1/8", 3/16", and 1/4" rods. I can mount up to three LP rockets or 2 MP rockets on it while horizontal.
Note: The first picture was a goof as the Zephyr was too close to the blast plate. It pooped off on the first flight. The blast plate was reattached more securely and I increased the space to the plate.
 

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If you stake the legs, it won't matter. My club has 12 jawstands, all go vertical for launch. We launch everything through K's on them. Only L's and up go on the bigger launch platforms. You can always do this...

View attachment 490931

or this...

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to enhance stability...
I very much like your idea of extending the legs and tying down the top of the launch rod. That provides a lot more stability for heavier rockets. Is that an 8' rail?
 
Price is the main reason.
Not only price. The micro-adjust and cam lock aren't features you need for a launch pad.
I very much like your idea of extending the legs and tying down the top of the launch rod. That provides a lot more stability for heavier rockets. Is that an 8' rail?
Not sure. That is a copy of a picture from elsewhere in TRF that I stored off for future reference. It's probably an 8' rail, but the beauty of using rails is that you can combine sections to make longer launch rails. I have one 6" rail and two 4' rails. Easy to transport in a car instead of an eight-footer. With standard rail connectors (available on Amazon) I can have a rail of 6', 8', 10' or 14'. Adding or removing a rail is 1 one-minute effort with an Allen wrench.
 
Not only price. The micro-adjust and cam lock aren't features you need for a launch pad.

Not sure. That is a copy of a picture from elsewhere in TRF that I stored off for future reference. It's probably an 8' rail, but the beauty of using rails is that you can combine sections to make longer launch rails. I have one 6" rail and two 4' rails. Easy to transport in a car instead of an eight-footer. With standard rail connectors (available on Amazon) I can have a rail of 6', 8', 10' or 14'. Adding or removing a rail is 1 one-minute effort with an Allen wrench.

I don’t see any downfall to having the micro-adjust and cam lock though. Don’t really seem like they’re likely to add failure points either.

For rail extensions… isn’t there issues caused at the joints from uneven seams? How do you get around this?
 
I finally decided to go all in on a launch rail for my MPR build, and ditch the 1/4 inch launch rod. Grainger had a decent price on an eight foot 1010 rail, and I found a Rockwell Jawstand on sale.

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After browsing the designs in this thread, I decided to use a two-foot 2x4 as the interface between rail and Jawstand, attached with 1/4 inch bolts through inch-and-a-half angle aluminum. I removed the two rubberized strips on the Jawstand's flanges so I could bolt directly to the metal, as well as the clamping mechanism so I could center the 2x4.

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The rail attaches to the 2x4 with two gussets; one at the top of the 2x4, the other at the bottom.

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The standoff is an inside corner bracket.

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The blast deflector is 12x18 inch 22 gauge stainless steel sheet, and fastens to the 2x4 at the rear with corner braces. The front of the deflector is braced with a 1/8 inch thick aluminum strip, attached at the base of the rail with a 1/4 inch bolt.

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I cut the rail in half so I could fit it in my car (I drive a Honda Fit, which has a cavernous cargo hold when the back seats are folded down, but is still quite short from the rear hatch to the dashboard). The two pieces are joined with three 8" long aluminum plates.

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All in all, this build meets my criteria: rock solid, square with the world, and not half bad to look at.
 
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