lets see your av bays with Feathwerweight magnetic switches being used.

The Rocketry Forum

Help Support The Rocketry Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Aug 17, 2020
Messages
587
Reaction score
713
Location
Wellington, Co
Looking for ideas on use/mounting/positioning of the featherweight magnetic switches. will use mine to activate both the Featherweight tracker plus my altimeters. Looking to see how most mount them, position them and utilize them in their builds. Specifically seperate from the power perch.

Appreciate any input
 
I used two Featherweight switches at opposite corners of the sled to meet the L3 redundancy requirement AND make their separate actuation easier.

What size airframe did you use this in?
Whats the mounting method of the switch?
Im trying to follow the wiring. Are you switching power or ground to the altimeter?

Thank you
 
Both the primary (PF Stratologger CF) and secondary (MW RRC2L) altimeters are wired up identically. The electrical bus connections (4-40 standoffs) in the center of the sled are for cable strain relief, allowing the use of thin gauge wire from the altimeters to the bus and tougher lamp cord from the bus to the aft bulkhead (only) for the two sets of DROGUE circuit e-match terminals.

What size airframe did you use this in? 75mm (3") Blue Tube.

Whats the mounting method of the switch? 2x, 4-40 standoffs (inboard side of mag switch) with 2x, 4-40 socket head cap screws securing the Featherweight switch to the standoffs. The switch's mounting screws double as terminals for + in (from LiPo) and +out (to altimeter + in). The single mag switch screw hole closest to the edge of the sled uses no standoff, just a cap screw and nut to hold the two negative cables to the mag switch - circuit.

I'm trying to follow the wiring. Are you switching power or ground to the altimeter? My wiring scheme uses red* for + and black for -. (I only use the apogee DROGUE circuits on the altimeters; MAIN function is handled by a Jolly Logic Chute Release.) By design, the Featherweight mag switch switches + only. The battery's negative cable goes to the switch's - terminal, while a separate - cable runs from this same switch terminal to the altimeter's - in. (In other words, the negative circuit is always hot on both the switch and the altimeters.)

*In my photo, on the mag switch that services the Perfect Flite altimeter, its + OUT cable looks black, but that's just black heat shrink tubing. The wire is actually red. It, and the negative cable from the mag switch too, run underneath the altimeter to the altimeter's + and - power in terminals, respectively.

Best of luck using these well-engineered Featherweight magnetic switches. But you won't really need luck. They are rugged, reliable, and worth every penny for the simplicity and extremely low space claim they lend to building an avionics bay.
 
They’re all under nylon washers, the same as what comes with Raven. The mag switch will turn on any component. Have another one I need to pull apart to get some pics when I get some time.
 
Dual Marsa 54's w/ Featherweight switches. 5 inch airframe (Terminator 5), with the switches far from each other.
Yes, the batteries and RealFlight GPS are on the opposite side.
You may also notice the Marsa MrfBridge boards used to fire MrfPyros in the nosecone. (I often also send a Raven along for the ride for redundant data capture. It can be interesting to compare data from two or more sources.)

IMG_2777sm.jpg
 
Last edited:
Dual Marsa 54's w/ Featherweight switches

View attachment 505310

Thats pretty clean. I assume your power and ground are passing through the stud/bolts for the magnetic switches from the underside. If so i really like that idea. Less wires. And connections. Clean look.

What size airframe? I see you have the switches clear out to the sides on each end. Gives them space from each other. But closer to the air frame body.


Thank you a ton
 
Yes you swipe the switch with magnet. I have a power perch which is about an inch from airframe. First pic. Second pic shown powering TeleMetrum. Third pic sandwiched between 2 sheets of glass powering a MARSA33.
A98DD54B-2AB3-4A73-9B72-1610FBD8903C.jpeg5CCEE939-C4FC-409F-AC6F-0815190D0574.jpegC50CEF75-3472-4265-B2FA-DEC7ABC8C9C6.jpeg
 
Here’s a setup I found in my lab yesterday, from the NCR Proton group project from about 10 (?!!!) years ago. It used a separate battery for each output channel, since they were all airstarts that could short. You can see the magnetic switch along the edge where it would be close to the airframe. Since these were HPR airstarts, there were also screw switches in series for safety, not shown.
 

Attachments

  • ED6982F9-C20D-4F9D-84E4-DC85A7266BEB.jpeg
    ED6982F9-C20D-4F9D-84E4-DC85A7266BEB.jpeg
    79.5 KB · Views: 32
Braden, when I bought my Featherweight Raven3's, I was concerned about whether the small black rod-shaped magnets supplied with them would be strong enough. So I shopped for a stronger alternative on Amazon, and came up with this:
DIYMAG 40x20mm Super Strong Neodymium Disc Magnet, Permanent Magnet Disc, The World's Strongest and Most Powerful Rare Earth Magnets - One Piece: AmazonSmile: Industrial & Scientific. It's a shiny metal disk 20mm high and 40mm in diameter. It is a BEAST. It operates the Raven3 magnetic switches from inches away. It's such a strong magnet, it comes with warnings about getting hurt getting between the magnet and a ferrous surface. I haven't used it in the field yet. I use magnets normally used to attach paperwork to metal dry erase boards. They're midway in strength between the rods and the Beast, and they seem to work fine. A slow axial swipe along the body tube where I know the switch is works every time.
Bob Schultz
BEAST OF A MAGNET 20220219.jpg
a beastly magnet, me hearties, arrgh . . . .
 
One caution about bench testing the Featherweight switch--when actuating the switch, it's wise to place your magnet inside a plastic bag or cover it with heat-shrink tubing to make it non-conductive. If while waving the magnet (especially a "beastly" strong one like Herr Schultz wields above) close to the switch the magnet "grabs" the energized mounting/terminal screws it can short out and instantly destroy the switch. This is not a problem when the avionics bay is buttoned up, just when it's exposed and energized--whether on or off--on the workbench.

Photo--A more compact version of my L3 bird's avionics bay.

1645283005519.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Back
Top