OK then:
We have a Booster motor in the MMX-II-NE. ture the .857second delay before burn thru is a bit of a heart stopper but GUY's they really do work quite well!
As soon at Bill released these little jewels I ordered a gross, got them in opened and RED Magic marked the entire casings as they look just like standard MMX-II motors.
I have 4- staged micros, a T2+ downscale Hercules, T2+ extended Warp-II that I night fly with 1" cylume glo-sticks. a light weight 10.5mm two stage testing model and a recently built T3-T4 downscale Midget 2-stage. OH man are these things quick. I've already lost the lower stage to the Warp-II and took over an hour to find the lower stage of the Hercules. Teflon Streamer/wadding has helped saved the sustainers on just about all flights.
I highly recommend Very Bright colors for any and all booster stages. They tend to settle down in the grass making recovery difficult if flying alone or if you take your eyes off the touch down spot.

We have a Booster motor in the MMX-II-NE. ture the .857second delay before burn thru is a bit of a heart stopper but GUY's they really do work quite well!
As soon at Bill released these little jewels I ordered a gross, got them in opened and RED Magic marked the entire casings as they look just like standard MMX-II motors.
I have 4- staged micros, a T2+ downscale Hercules, T2+ extended Warp-II that I night fly with 1" cylume glo-sticks. a light weight 10.5mm two stage testing model and a recently built T3-T4 downscale Midget 2-stage. OH man are these things quick. I've already lost the lower stage to the Warp-II and took over an hour to find the lower stage of the Hercules. Teflon Streamer/wadding has helped saved the sustainers on just about all flights.
I highly recommend Very Bright colors for any and all booster stages. They tend to settle down in the grass making recovery difficult if flying alone or if you take your eyes off the touch down spot.

