LED's and Night Flying

[nukemmcssret]

My Section 563 NEFAR is having a night flight in November. That gives me a few months to build a rocket with LED's. Has any one done this and what was your power source. I am thinking two nine volts and 6 -8 LED's. WIll this be bright enough. I can cluster three or four Estes D's if I have to. Any advice would be nice. Thanks nukemmcssret

 

[McKailas Dad]

I think 2 9 volt batteries is waaay too much, both power and weight wise. You certainly dont need 18 volts to run LED lights.

I have used A23 batteries. They are 12 volt camera batteries, about half the length of an AA battery, and about the same diameter as a AAA. I get them at Walmart.

I just weighed one - 8 grams. I also just happened to weigh a 9 volt - 46 grams! x2 = 92 grams:y:

Button cells are another good option, but I haven't used much of those.

Do a search on 'night flights' or 'night launches', there are lots of options...

Here's one

And another.

 

[Rex R]

ayup you only need a 4-4.5v power supply for leds, for 8 led's your battery needs to be able to produce 0.25 amps. for my setup I decided to use a 110mah lipo cell to run 7 led's, in stand by mode (1 led lite) that will run for about 4hrs, with all of them lite that drops to about 45 minutes.
rex

 

[n5wd]

My Section 563 NEFAR is having a night flight in November. That gives me a few months to build a rocket with LED's.

You might consider using a controller such as one from TMI Digital

https://www.tmidigital.com

that supports various lighting effects. They're light, and affordable. There are some other lighting controllers around, as well, but I can't put my finger on the bookmark link right now. Google is your friend.

FWIW, we powered a small fan and a strip of 12 high intensity LEDs inside our ladybug payload containers so that the buggies wouldn't sufficate and the video camera would have enough light. We powered it all with a single 9v battery that lasted over 2 hours, so that might be overkill for what you're wanting to do.

 

[nukemmcssret]

You might consider using a controller such as one from TMI Digital

https://www.tmidigital.com

that supports various lighting effects. They're light, and affordable. There are some other lighting controllers around, as well, but I can't put my finger on the bookmark link right now. Google is your friend.

FWIW, we powered a small fan and a strip of 12 high intensity LEDs inside our ladybug payload containers so that the buggies wouldn't sufficate and the video camera would have enough light. We powered it all with a single 9v battery that lasted over 2 hours, so that might be overkill for what you're wanting to do.

That sounds interesting. I will definately look into it. Thanks all

 

[Bone Daddy]

An A23 fits perfectly well in an N battery holder like RadioShack 270-405A.

It's what I using for the aft LEDs on Dremel 1. All told it's about 10.4 grams.

Bones

 

[Micromeister]

My Section 563 NEFAR is having a night flight in November. That gives me a few months to build a rocket with LED's. Has any one done this and what was your power source. I am thinking two nine volts and 6 -8 LED's. WIll this be bright enough. I can cluster three or four Estes D's if I have to. Any advice would be nice. Thanks nukemmcssret

Nukemmcssret:
I've been flying 1/2A to 5-D12 clustered Night Illuminted Vehicles since the mid 90's. In the beginning most of us were using either 9v or a pair of AAAs to power our LED and Strobe projects. But as with all things in model rocketry mass is always the enemy so over time most of us have gravitated away from all the Barrel batteries for 2 reasons mass and the problem of springs in the battery holders to using Button Coin Cells. Generally 3volt Lithiums. Keeping Good contact with your power supply is something overlooked my many as they begin building and flying NITE vehicles but it's something you must consider regardless of battery type selected, At launch MANY of the spring held battery holders FAIL as the weight of the battery itself breaks contact inside the holder. IF using barrel type batteries be very careful in which direction you orient your holders during mounting. Lots of folks use 9volt batterys which are heavy, bulky and in most cases Totally unnecessary I might add. Even with todays very High Brightness LED's their power requirements are rarely higher then 3 to 4.5volts @ 20ma.
A pair of #2032 3v Lithium 20mm coin cells with a positive holding HD two coin holder weigh about 1/3 that of a single 9volt. With the proper resistors at you leds or strings of leds (Usually limited to about 8 per string) you can power your project for more then 8 hours easily. With Carful selection of your High mcd LEDs it's possible to select red, orange and yellow LEDs that can be powered by a single 3v lithium cell for the same time span.
I strongly suggest visiting www.superbrightleds.com check out their 3 and 5mm high 2000mcd and higher leds (flux series as well) and their LED resistor calculator that can be downloaded for your use later I get my Lithium #2032 coin cells and HD single and 2-cell holders from www.alliedelec.com on line, as our local Radio Shacks have become Cell phone sellers more then electroic outlets anymore
Your LED projects can be wired by the thinnest of wires you can find as we are not pushing much current. I've even used copper adhesive backed tape to wire LED mod rock projects in models that fly on MMX motors

Also be prepared for cold weather if your Night launch is in November! this can effect more then just your fingers LOL! it can also lower the brightness of you led output a touch of coarse in Florida that may not be as pressing an issued LOL!!! Up here in DC/Maryland we usually schedule our club Night Launches for March, April, or September or October.
Hope this helps some.

 

[Micromeister]

Though you might want to see the business side wiring of the 2-stage UFO and Phantom Nike-Apache booster.

 

[foose4string]

I took a part a toy that ran on 4.5 volts and used 3-AA batteries. There were about 25-30 LEDs in the thing, of which, I used 6. I replaced the AA's with 3 watch batteries to achieve to same voltage. The lights ran continuous for about 30-40 minutes waiting it's turn on the rack to be launched at NARAM last year. It hasn't flown at night since then(but has flown several times during the day without lights on), and I haven't changed the batteries. The lights still work fine. I don't think they'll last nearly as long as the AA's would have, but they still have plenty enough juice for what I am using them for. The weight reduction is worth the trade off to me.

BTW-I modified a Quest Magnum Sport Loader. I don't think they ship with clear nose cones anymore. It's a shame they don't, because it was a perfect candidate for a conversion.

 

[plano-doug]

My Section 563 NEFAR is having a night flight in November. That gives me a few months to build a rocket with LED's. Has any one done this and what was your power source. I am thinking two nine volts and 6 -8 LED's. WIll this be bright enough. I can cluster three or four Estes D's if I have to. Any advice would be nice. Thanks nukemmcssret

I've been updating my website. Here's a page I wrote up on one of our night flyers. HTH.

https://www.doug79.com/payloader1/

Doug

.

 

[Rex R]

an 80w iron works very nicely for soldering wires onto batteries w/o doing much harm to them. the trick is to 'scuff' the batteries (while the iron heats), tin the batteries and let them cool back down, meanwhile tin the wires(go a bit heavy on the solder here). once the batteries are cool to the touch(not hot, not warm, but down to room temp), place in position and apply heat to the wire, once the solder looks wet remove the iron(while holding the wire in position), let it cool again(do the next battery). turn the batteries over and repeat. for AAs this should take 10-15 min (including cool downs).
(why yes I have done this a few times ).
rex

 

[Micromeister]

an 80w iron works very nicely for soldering wires onto batteries w/o doing much harm to them. the trick is to 'scuff' the batteries (while the iron heats), tin the batteries and let them cool back down, meanwhile tin the wires(go a bit heavy on the solder here). once the batteries are cool to the touch(not hot, not warm, but down to room temp), place in position and apply heat to the wire, once the solder looks wet remove the iron(while holding the wire in position), let it cool again(do the next battery). turn the batteries over and repeat. for AAs this should take 10-15 min (including cool downs).
(why yes I have done this a few times ).
rex

Rex R:
Curious as to why your promoting soldering wires directly to batteries? While it's true Spring connections are a potential problem, they can all be eliminated by careful choice of components, along with thoughful placement and orientation of our battery holders in the night flying vehicle.
Is there some overwhelming advantage to making these somewhat hazardous connections permanent? I've read reports of Alkaline, Lithium and Lipoly batteries exploding in the presence of high heat.

 

[Rex R]

the web article showed him using 2 AA batts to power his nite flyer payload wires were soldered directly to the AA batteries(Not litheum). I would not try soldering to anything smaller than AA batteries though.

 

[mikec]

I'm in the process of building a system using 1-meter LED strips https://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/stor/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8944
60 LEDs per strip,
probably four strips on the rocket, powered by a 3S lipo battery and maybe using this https://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9000 as a controller. Expect it to fly at Plaster Blaster 9 in November.

 

[plano-doug]

I'm in the process of building a system using 1-meter LED strips https://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/stor/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8944
60 LEDs per strip,
probably four strips on the rocket, powered by a 3S lipo battery and maybe using this https://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9000 as a controller. Expect it to fly at Plaster Blaster 9 in November.

The light strips look cool. (BTW, the link wouldn't work, but I found them on the site anyway.) They look easy to work with. If I do it again, I'll definitely give these a look.

As for the battery, if you have a LiPo and charger handy, go for it. But many other battery options could be used as well.

Doug

.

 

[mikec]

The light strips look cool. (BTW, the link wouldn't work...
As for the battery, if you have a LiPo and charger handy, go for it. But many other battery options could be used as well.

Try this for the link:
https://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8944

As for batteries, certainly. Each one of these strips pulls 400 mA@12V so four of them will run for about a half hour with a 1000 mAh 3S lipo. I've got a bunch of lipos around from R/C so it was the simplest option for me.

 

[nukemmcssret]

Nukemmcssret:
I've been flying 1/2A to 5-D12 clustered Night Illuminted Vehicles since the mid 90's. In the beginning most of us were using either 9v or a pair of AAAs to power our LED and Strobe projects. But as with all things in model rocketry mass is always the enemy so over time most of us have gravitated away from all the Barrel batteries for 2 reasons mass and the problem of springs in the battery holders to using Button Coin Cells. Generally 3volt Lithiums. Keeping Good contact with your power supply is something overlooked my many as they begin building and flying NITE vehicles but it's something you must consider regardless of battery type selected, At launch MANY of the spring held battery holders FAIL as the weight of the battery itself breaks contact inside the holder. IF using barrel type batteries be very careful in which direction you orient your holders during mounting. Lots of folks use 9volt batterys which are heavy, bulky and in most cases Totally unnecessary I might add. Even with todays very High Brightness LED's their power requirements are rarely higher then 3 to 4.5volts @ 20ma.
A pair of #2032 3v Lithium 20mm coin cells with a positive holding HD two coin holder weigh about 1/3 that of a single 9volt. With the proper resistors at you leds or strings of leds (Usually limited to about 8 per string) you can power your project for more then 8 hours easily. With Carful selection of your High mcd LEDs it's possible to select red, orange and yellow LEDs that can be powered by a single 3v lithium cell for the same time span.
I strongly suggest visiting www.superbrightleds.com check out their 3 and 5mm high 2000mcd and higher leds (flux series as well) and their LED resistor calculator that can be downloaded for your use later I get my Lithium #2032 coin cells and HD single and 2-cell holders from www.alliedelec.com on line, as our local Radio Shacks have become Cell phone sellers more then electroic outlets anymore
Your LED projects can be wired by the thinnest of wires you can find as we are not pushing much current. I've even used copper adhesive backed tape to wire LED mod rock projects in models that fly on MMX motors

Also be prepared for cold weather if your Night launch is in November! this can effect more then just your fingers LOL! it can also lower the brightness of you led output a touch of coarse in Florida that may not be as pressing an issued LOL!!! Up here in DC/Maryland we usually schedule our club Night Launches for March, April, or September or October.
Hope this helps some.

Thanks for all the useful information. I have looked at the Superbright LED place I am checking out the other saite now. Thanks again.

 

[Rocketjunkie]

Thanks for all the useful information. I have looked at the Superbright LED place I am checking out the other saite now. Thanks again.

Another place for really bright LEDs is here: https://stores.ebay.com/TopBright-Led-Store__W0QQ_fsubZQ2d999QQ_scZ1QQ_sopZ1 Up to 40,000 mcd in 5mm white, up to 140,000 mcd in 10mm white, 60,000 mcd in 10mm colors.