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DavRedf

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If you could have any feature you wanted on a launch controller what would you want?

David
 

mkmilion

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Voice activation, and it counts down for me.
 

Steward

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I tend to trip over any wire that's within 10 miles of my feet...Usually, only after I 've connected the micro clips to the igniter...My biggest fantasy...LOL...would be a reasonable priced wireless system....No wires...no trip...no yelling and cursing...LOL
 

rbeckey

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1. light weight battery
2. enough juice to light cluster composites
3. battery meter
4. wireless
5. stainless clips
6. audio and visual continuity check

Of course, if I were to throw enough money at the problem, it could be solved. In the interest of realistic budgeting, I suppose that I could forgo wireless.
 

flying_silverad

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Originally posted by rbeckey
1. light weight battery
2. enough juice to light cluster composites
3. battery meter
4. wireless
5. stainless clips
6. audio and visual continuity check

Of course, if I were to throw enough money at the problem, it could be solved. In the interest of realistic budgeting, I suppose that I could forgo wireless.
Ditto!!
and...

Rechargable!! Without removing the batteries:D
 

cls

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yeah, everything rbeckey said, and add "absolutely completely impervious to heat, cold, sun, dirt, spilled drinks, burned and unburned stuff, etc."

that's a tough call for electronics. so also add, it's gotta be field strippable and fixable with thumb screws and a can of radio shack tv tuner cleaner.

and the jacks & plugs have gotta be solid, take lotsa abuse and keep on ticking.

oh yeah, and it's gotta sell for $50.
 

Weekends

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1. It's gotta have one of those launch buttons that is covered by a red panel. So you have to flip open the cover to push the button. The button has to be big and red that says "LAUNCH" or "FIRE" in white lettering.

2. Toggle switches with lights just above the switches so you know when the switch is thrown. Heck, the switches don't even have to connect to anything. Just as long as you have an entire row of toggle swithces with lights. hehe

3. Or even better yet, two seperately keyed key switches. So that two ppl have to turn the keys at the EXACT same time to arm the system.

4. And to top it all off, a yellow or red rotating becon mounted underneath the launch pad. It should activate just prior to launch.

Not that any of these are practical, just nifty. :p

Weekends
 

Micromeister

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Bruce:
I've been using a Solar/Capacitor discharge Launcher since 1991:D
Here's a 2Pic of the beast, If you'd like to build one I'm fairly sure the story is still in the library section of the Narhams.org web site under Tech-Tip-007 self contained solar launcher.
Looking at the front photo the rectangle attached to the lexan lid is 2 6v 50ma solar panels wired to produce 12v 50ma. which charge a 56,000mfd 16v capacitor in just under 45 seconds in full sunlight. Plenty of juice to fire estes, quest and coperhead igniters. I've even managed a 3 motor cluster, but prefer to use an external battery drop to an on-board 40amp per contact H/D DPDT relay for cluster ignition. All controlled by a custom fabricated
hand controller and 30' of 16gage control cable which store in the front 42" tri-pod 2" x2" square alum. tube leg. Battery drop cables and 36" launch rods store in the other two legs.

Rbecky:
This launcher has everything on your list except being light weight and wireless, the unit with on-board 12V battery back-up, Solar panel, controller & cable, drop cables and 1/8th, 3/16" and 1/4" x 36" stainless steel launch rods tips the scales at a tad over 45 lbs. I'm afraid wireless would be ToOO dangerous due to stray signals.
She has H/D Relay and stainless steel micro-clip whips for up to 8 motor cluster. Stainless steel built-in 16ga blast deflector and director also have Rod holders for 1/8"-3/8" rods. launch angle
adjustments are made by pressure fitting in the blast box with azimuth adjustment by 360 degree rotation of the entire launcher head around a central swivel.

Cls:
Most of the electronic/electrical hook-up and connectiors are on a "works in a draw" type semi slide out tray, but I really messed up making the rear panel power supply selector door hinge up instead of down which would have made servicing internal components easier:( Function slector switches, relay continuity light and Capacitor dischrarge lamp are mounted on a recessed front panel with bottom hinged cover door. By isolating all the electronic/electrical components in a semi sealed compartment below the deflector all the corrosive chemical smoke and by products are kept out making reliability wonderful. Clear up with fantistic and paper towel and a squirt of WD-40 on the clips and rods is all thats needed for maintainance. 13 years or hard use and I've only had to replace 1 bulb, one set of cluster clip wire wires and change the micro-clips about once a year until I got the Stainless Steel micro-clips.
You find/have Launch systems you like... This one I is for me..my ultimate!
 

graylensman

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Originally posted by Weekends
1. It's gotta have one of those launch buttons that is covered by a red panel. So you have to flip open the cover to push the button. The button has to be big and red that says "LAUNCH" or "FIRE" in white lettering.

YES!! I saw something similar in Radio Shack once, but the price tag was ten bucks for the one switch. A little out of my budget at the time, and I haven't since gone back for it.

2. Toggle switches with lights just above the switches so you know when the switch is thrown. Heck, the switches don't even have to connect to anything. Just as long as you have an entire row of toggle swithces with lights. hehe

When I was a very young lad, my dad made such a thing for me: a row of toggle switches with lights. I'd lay on my back in my closet, imagining I was a Mercury astronaut. Hours of fun. The sad thing is, I'd love to do that even now. :)
 
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