lakeroadster
When in doubt... build hell-for-stout!
It's all good.Oh great, now my brain hurts.
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Don't let the minutia get stuck in the hops and bong resin. lol
It's all good.Oh great, now my brain hurts.
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MY EYES!!!!Golly kids, if a Quarter inch is the biggest rod you have seen in the upper right and left, then it is time to road trip to the center to witness some Half inch rod, model rocketry - oddroc porn. Like you were told you will go blind, but it is worth it.
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Yes Mr. RSO, rail buttons won't work on this one.
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Your level one cert rocket is too complex to fly off the god given rail? Oopsie! Darlin' we're gonna have to shut you down!
I was the one taking the picture with out protection. That dude is a Top Man looking over the thick rodded abomination.MY EYES!!!!
I'm happy to see you wearing a hard hat and probable safety glasses. Those monstrosities deserve all of the precautions.
Though I walk through the valley of the shadow of oddroc, I fear no rod whip, for thy standoffs and stainless comfort me.I was the one taking the picture with out protection. That dude is a Top Man looking over the thick rodded abomination.
Pitty the fool who tries to certify with a Cosmodrome Vostok. That beauty needs every bit of the stainless half inch rod. On mine no one noticed the 3/8" rod whip until we slowed down the video. I tried to blame the rod but I know it's my own dern fault. Got in the car and off to Grainger for a high quality, 1/2" stainless rod. Stand offs to multiple 1/2" lugs RULE! Fly the rockets you love and dread not.
The ironic and sad thing is that given where the Lone Wolf Lakeroadster decides to do his level one, I could be the RSO.Though I walk through the valley of the shadow of oddroc, I fear no rod whip, for thy standoffs and stainless comfort me.
[OK, that's enough threadjacking. Back to lakeroadster]
The normal standard is the 80/20 1010 section or any of equivalent knockoffs. You can get them from McMaster or your choice of online retailers. Definitely compare and contrast on shipping--that'll really bite you if you have to pay full rate. A 6-foot to 8-foot section is fine for MPR to L1 HPR.So let's talk launch rails.
- I'm assuming T-slotted framing rails?
- What size?
- Where's the best place to get them?
Do you have to be at a club (NAR) to certify? Or will a case of beer and two level one certified witnesses suffice? Tripoli is more strict.Since you're planning to use this for a cert flight, doesn't that mean you'll be going against type and flying with a club? The club will have rail launchers, so you shouldn't need to buy your own.
Do you have to be at a club (NAR) to certify? Or will a case of beer and two level one certified witnesses suffice? Tripoli is more strict.
NAR allows you to certify with a single L2 or L3 witness for an L1 cert. It doesn't have to be at a club launch--my L2 wasn't. It's just usually easier to get a launch site and waiver (if not Class 1) at an organized launch.I think it takes a Level 2 certified witness, but don't hold me to that. I've never heard of anyone doing it outside of a club launch, but maybe that's just me.
Since you're planning to use this for a cert flight, doesn't that mean you'll be going against type and flying with a club? The club will have rail launchers, so you shouldn't need to buy your own.
An H97-6 wouldn't require a waiver, correct? And the rocket only Apogee's at 1333 feet.NAR allows you to certify with a single L2 or L3 witness for an L1 cert. It doesn't have to be at a club launch--my L2 wasn't. It's just usually easier to get a launch site and waiver (if not Class 1) at an organized launch.
I want to create a cad file of the rail, so I can determine clearances and the feasibility of using one on this design. I think the conical fairings may result in the need for pretty long rail guides.
137g propellant, so it is a FAR101 High Power rocket.An H97-6 wouldn't require a waiver, correct? And the rocket only Apogee's at 1333 feet.
Maybe a custom fly-off rail guide? https://www.additiveaerospace.com/products/fly-away-rail-guidesI want to create a cad file of the rail, so I can determine clearances and the feasibility of using one on this design. I think the conical fairings may result in the need for pretty long rail guides.
Sticking with the launch rod probably makes sense. But I really don't like the idea of a launch lug on the rocket that is bigger than 3/8" from an aesthetics perspective.
For me, making a CAD model gives me the visual to analyze the most logical path forward.
I'd kind of like to start using a rail anyway for these heavier rockets... plus the rail follows my Hell-For-Stout philosophy.
No, it’s a little more complicated than that. You only need a waiver for >125 g propellant or >1500 g pad mass. There are a few baby H motors less than 125g. Most of the 3 grain CTI 29mm motors are but I don’t know about the AT options.Is it true that the only place I can fly motors with more power than a G80-7 is at a HP event, due to waivers?
No, it’s a little more complicated than that. You only need a waiver for >125 g propellant or >1500 g pad mass. There are a few baby H motors less than 125g. Most of the 3 grain CTI 29mm motors are but I don’t know about the AT options.
But note that does mean you'll need a waiver in place for that H97. From what I've read here, the waiver process does not require a club, but clubs that get them routinely have an easy time; they've climbed the learning curve, so you don't have to.No, it’s a little more complicated than that. You only need a waiver for >125 g propellant or >1500 g pad mass. There are a few baby H motors less than 125g. Most of the 3 grain CTI 29mm motors are but I don’t know about the AT options.
Started making the basswood ply... not very exciting, but it is a means to the end.
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Nope, no vacuum pump. I'm a low tech guy... and frugal.With all the cool woodworking and interesting designs you do, I'm curious if you have a vacuum pump? I have made laminates similar to your method and also by putting the platens in a vacuum bag and pulling vacuum. The force with the bag was way more than the clamps and there was less warping of the ply. Both ways work fine, but for some reason, I like doing the bag method better. If you don't have a vacuum pump, though, it likely wouldn't be worth the cost for just this type of project. Once you had one, though, I bet you'd figure out some other cool methods and techniques to make more neat oddrocs. While I've never done it, I bet you could bend ply into shapes etc. with the help of vacuum and shaped platens.
Sandy.
The hive mind is a little like a kicked-over anthill on the topic of rail buttons. There is a distinct lack of consensus. Like makers of garam masala and adobo spice mixes (not to mention epoxy partisans on TRF), I feel like many people are absolutely convinced of the rightness of their position and the wrongness of everyone else's position, and none of them are really wrong.I created a cad model of the t-slot. Since this is a rear eject, I'm going to plan on using the 5/16" launch rod, launch it with the G motor, and evaluate if that will be sufficient for the HP motor. I can always add rail buttons at a later date.
What's the hive opinion in regard to placement of rail buttons?
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