L3 Build LOC Ultimate Buzz 5.5

Biodragen

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I peeled a layer off the tubes and then slid 6lb fiberglass tube over airframe and payload. Coated with West systems epoxy and applied with a brush. Let it set up a little and then slipped shrink tubing on and heated it up. Never did this before but found it was easy to do with positive results.
 

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Biodragen

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Can someone tell me about what makes the whistle???

From what I understand its the dual fins but should it be blunt leading edge or rounded or even tapered to one side?
 

The_Quacken

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Can someone tell me about what makes the whistle???

From what I understand its the dual fins but should it be blunt leading edge or rounded or even tapered to one side?
There’s something specific about the distance between the fins that makes the whistle particularly loud on rockets like this and amw’s white wolf I don’t know the specifics However. That said I do know that the two edges next to eachother (trailing of fore fin leading of aft) need to be squared
 

The_Quacken

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I peeled a layer off the tubes and then slid 6lb fiberglass tube over airframe and payload. Coated with West systems epoxy and applied with a brush. Let it set up a little and then slipped shrink tubing on and heated it up. Never did this before but found it was easy to do with positive results.
I’m curious because I also want to use this rocket for my L3 if possible but did you find the fiberglass reinforcement to be a necessary structural thing or is it more so insurance? Especially if I only ever plan to fly in the low end of l3 on occasion or high end of l2.
 

DAllen

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Why is the MMT tube the same length as the fin can tube? Or am I missing something here?

Also...subscribed. :popcorn:
 

Biodragen

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I’m curious because I also want to use this rocket for my L3 if possible but did you find the fiberglass reinforcement to be a necessary structural thing or is it more so insurance? Especially if I only ever plan to fly in the low end of l3 on occasion or high end of l2.
Rocsim shows 10k feet plus with the smallest of 3 "M" motors and at around mach.
So it was for structural as well as trying something new.
I also plan on glassing fins to motor tube and airframe.
 

The_Quacken

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Rocsim shows 10k feet plus with the smallest of 3 "M" motors and at around mach.
So it was for structural as well as trying something new.
I also plan on glassing fins to motor tube and airframe.
Makes sense I’m currently away from my sims but I know loc tubes can go Mach and I’ve put about 50 g on one and it flew great so I probably shouldn’t be too worried. I’ll definitely be keeping up with your build since I might wanna try glassing it if I do a level three on this as well
 

Tim51

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Can someone tell me about what makes the whistle???

Maybe someone else who has actually built an Ultimate or Mystic Buzz (I haven't) can confirm this, but my understanding is that if you want the split fins to create a whistle/buzz you should leave the trailing edge of the fore fin and the leading edge of the aft fin unrounded. The air passing through the facing square edges makes the noise (I believe).
 

Biodragen

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More to come.
I did take off 10" of the payload and since I had an extra coupler I glassed the inside since I didn't have the stiffy tube.
I then added the 10" to the airframe as it was already tight on any of the 3 baby M motors.
 

Biodragen

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Well...yeah...Just wondering if there was a specific reason for it. Seems like that would make it difficult to insert a e-bay if the MMT tube is flush with the top of the fin can
Well I cut off 10" from payload and added to airframe.
Looked over Rocsim and it was not much room for cord and chute and who knows if I wanted to go another grain....doubt it but the ability is there.
 

Biodragen

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In this part I glued together the 10" section being added to the airframe moving the EBAY up. I also glassed the inside of the coupler since I didn't have a stiffy tube.
I also made to wood blocks and banded the aft section together to pull the tube into shape and closer to the fins.
I proceeded to do the internal fillets.
 

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Biodragen

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Attached 1515 and 1010 rail buttons. You will ask, so I have it to where you just remove one or the other. With the top ones also doubling as a vent hole. There are nuts epoxied in place on the inside.
I also borrowed a 75mm flange to drill out holes and installed backing T-nuts. I had a scrap tube piece to act like the actual motor to keep it aligned.
I filled in with foam and used a Dremel to clean up the overflow of foam.
Installed aft ring and epoxied in place.
 

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Biodragen

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Here is the two sims I have. The original and the one I modified with extending Ebay and adding the 5th centering ring, the top forward one. Also the coupler tube was added to revised sim.
 

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Biodragen

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Here are the same sims with motor loaded. You can see not much room after the Ebay
 

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Thanks for creating this thread. I have had this kit for a while, but haven't started it yet. Great to see your build.

One question: When you glassed the rear body tube did you have any issues with epoxy getting into the fin slots? I have been debating whether its worth trying to fill the slots before glassing or just take a chance.
 

Biodragen

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Thanks for creating this thread. I have had this kit for a while, but haven't started it yet. Great to see your build.

One question: When you glassed the rear body tube did you have any issues with epoxy getting into the fin slots? I have been debating whether its worth trying to fill the slots before glassing or just take a chance.
I put tape on the inside. After it all dried I used a dremel to cut out the slots from foward start and to the aft including that small part inbetween so I can slide the whole fin can.
 

Tim51

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Thanks for creating this thread. I have had this kit for a while, but haven't started it yet. Great to see your build.

One question: When you glassed the rear body tube did you have any issues with epoxy getting into the fin slots? I have been debating whether its worth trying to fill the slots before glassing or just take a chance.

You can allow the 'glass to wrap over them initially, then remove the area of 'glass covering them with a sharp craft or scalpel blade when it reaches the so called 'green' or 'leather' stage (ie touch dry, but not fully cured). Re-cutting fin slots is pretty straight foward at that point, as the slots in the cardboard substrate act as a guide.
 

Biodragen

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You can allow the 'glass to wrap over them initially, then remove the area of 'glass covering them with a sharp craft or scalpel blade when it reaches the so called 'green' or 'leather' stage (ie touch dry, but not fully cured). Re-cutting fin slots is pretty straight foward at that point, as the slots in the cardboard substrate act as a guide.
Yes but since this was shrink wrapped I had to skim it 2 times after wrapping to get that smooth finish filling in some imperfections.
I did what Sollar Composites stated in the video but that took away too much epoxy and I was better off with a little extra..
Best to make sure you are okay before removing. I did that on one side and had leakage even with the tape on the inside.
Plus it makes it easier to sand and it not deforming as you sand it.
 

Biodragen

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Drilled 1/2" hole just below top forward fin CR
Foamed forward sections inside fin areas.
Applied 1-1/2 4oz fiberglass to fillet area for extra strength
Applied fully over fins 4oz Fiberglass for extra strength
 

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Biodragen

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Did some additional epoxy work with fillets, Installed (4) 2-56 Sheer pins for nose, spot puttied fillets and gave this a good sanding.
 

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Biodragen

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I had some black filler primer to use up---why not??? Sanded it down and gave it another coat of filler primer, gave it a sanding once over, then did a lot of spot putty touch ups.
2 rounds of filler primer was because of pin holes.
 

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