L2 Project: WM Drago 4 "EX-1127"

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Theory

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Makin progress. Shot two coats of black on the nose cone and switch band, then wet sanded with 1000 grit. Will shot the final coat Thursday then follow that with some Max 2K two part clear.

Filling the fin fillets is coming along. Hope to have her in primer by the end of the weekend
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I also ordered a Loki 38-480 case and some motors (I405 & I377). I’ve never loaded or flown a Loki motor so figured I would get my feet wet with the smaller ones.
 

Handeman

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I flew a Loki I motor for my L1 cert. Never flew another until my L3 cert. As long as you have the right size snap ring pliers, you'll be golden.
 

Theory

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Filled everything last night so the putty could dry completely. Then this afternoon and evening I spent some quality time with 320 and 400 grit. Got it quite close

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Figured I would shoot a good coat of primer to see where I was and ended up quite impressed.
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There are a few places to fill but the rest will be addressed by simply sanding the primer. Going to let it cure for a good three days till I start sanding it though.
 

crossfire

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Very nice. What brand clear are you going to use?
 

Theory

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Very nice. What brand clear are you going to use?
going to try Spray Max 2k Clear

had a really bad experience with the rustoleum gloss clear on my Caliber ISP, bout swore off clear all together, but then this came a long and figured i would give it a try
 

crossfire

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going to try Spray Max 2k Clear

had a really bad experience with the rustoleum gloss clear on my Caliber ISP, bout swore off clear all together, but then this came a long and figured i would give it a try
Same here with the rusto clear.
 

Theory

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This is my last go at clear

Hard to do as the noes cone and switch band look really good as is.

Feel like I’m really roll the dice
 

crossfire

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This is my last go at clear

Hard to do as the noes cone and switch band look really good as is.

Feel like I’m really roll the dice
Let us know how it turns out. A number of people like the clear your going to use.
 

AfterBurners

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YUP!

Also has a long pot life allowing for lots of working time. Its of moderate consistency, thicker than say BSI 30min but nothing like RocketPoxy. Used it for the first time on my WAC Corporal project and then almost exclusively on my Caliber ISP build. Not great for fillets as its a little too thin. I am not a huge fan of adding products to epoxies, but in this case a little silica would have gone a loooooong way.
I used RP once and that was enough. I didn't really care for it. How long have you been using T-88. Do you have the option to add to it to make it thicker or is it best to use as is? Where do you buy it at? - Edit - Okay read a few other posts. Its structural not great for fillets. Would say its equivalent to West Systems?
 

AfterBurners

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Went through all the parts and began washing the fiberglass pieces with dawn and warm water. Also cut the motor mount down to 19 inches as discussed earlier. Notched the forward ring for the Kevlar harness and test fit. This will be epoxied tomorrow after I prep the motor mount tube

All fiberglass pieces will be roughed with 220, then wiped down with alcohol prior to bonding.
View attachment 413384
I did bond the aft birch ring to the supplied fiberglass ring. Tomorrow I will drill the holes for the flange mount Aeropack retainer.
View attachment 413385
I can't even find denatured alcohol anywhere...hope you have enough to finish? They pulled all it off the shelves here.
 

AfterBurners

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First set of internal fillets is curing. Mixed up some T88, filled a syringe and injected as far in as I could. Then, like others, I employed a 100% custom, and finely calibrated stick to move the epoxy where I needed it. T88 has a long cure time so that’s it for today

View attachment 414215View attachment 414216
Nice work on the fillets. I just recently experienced making internal fillets and it was a hassle, but yours look much better. Are you going to foam the fin can?
 

jd2cylman

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I haven't quite mastered fillets with RP. Maybe I should give it several more tries to get it right?
The key is to hit the sweet spot of RP. Too soon at pulling the fillet, and it still runs, just really slow. Too late, and it doesn't pull well and clumps.
A little denatured alcohol on the tool helps as you pull if it's a little sticky.
 

AfterBurners

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The key is to hit the sweet spot of RP. Too soon at pulling the fillet, and it still runs, just really slow. Too late, and it doesn't pull well and clumps.
A little denatured alcohol on the tool helps as you pull if it's a little sticky.
I would also imagine that ambient air temperatures come into play as well?
 

AfterBurners

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I have a small batch so I guess what I can do is just tape off some 1" sections of a body tube and lay it down. I doubt if I need a fin for what I want to find out is at what point will it set up and / or run? Then I'll practice with a fin.
 

Theory

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I find that T88 is between West and Aeropoxy ES6209. It flows, but it’s not “runny”

The stuff is very strong. Strong enough for any rocket application I’ve come across. I get it at my local wood working store. Like to support local businesses when I can.

I don’t fill it with any additives, but you definitely could
 

Theory

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The key is to hit the sweet spot of RP. Too soon at pulling the fillet, and it still runs, just really slow. Too late, and it doesn't pull well and clumps.
A little denatured alcohol on the tool helps as you pull if it's a little sticky.
^^^This^^^

Applied too soon on the aft centering ring fillet. Had to work on it a lot to get it to look good
 

Nytrunner

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Late to the party, but I noticed you painted the ebay sled and internals. Having a hard time figuring out why, so I had to ask
(Great build, you'll have a fine L2)
 

Theory

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Late to the party, but I noticed you painted the ebay sled and internals. Having a hard time figuring out why, so I had to ask
(Great build, you'll have a fine L2)
IMHO it gives the bay a more “finished” and “complete” feel
 

Theory

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After some 400 grit then a complete wet sand with 800 grit were ready for the last coat of primer. Think it will be the last coat...

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Mugs914

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Hey Sean, I'm sorry, but I just got caught up with it the other day at work. I don't know how I missed it for so long. :rolleyes:

I really like the idea of teleporting your level 2 flight, and the build looks fantastic! Keep up the good work!

Mike
 

Theory

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LOLz, no worries Mike.

for full transparency, i am leaning more to an easy cert flight, something like a J500 (especially as i already have the AT 38-720 case). this guy is really starting to stretch the budget so i think i might need to wait on more motor cases :-/

the 38-1200 Loki case is on the short list though...
 

Theory

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got the wet sanding taken care of. came out quite well.. 800 grit followed by 1000 grit. no pictures as there really isnt much to see.

i also took some time to shoot the Spray Max 2k Clear on the nosecone and switch band.

was more than a little nervous going in as the the gloss black laid out well and already looked great. also, i havent had the best experiences with clear in the past and this being a new product, there is sure to be a learning curve.

well put a new set of VOC filers in my respirator, shook the crap out of the can, activated it, shook it again and shot a good coat. waited 15 min then shot another, followed by another. used 2/3s of the can and while i havent looked at it in the sun, it looks DARN GOOD under my LED shop light! happy with the product and im happy i went for it to complete the nose cone.

i have one more can which will not be enough to clear the rest of the rocket, but it will be enough for the fins. will likely do that.
 

mbeels

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“Aluminium”

laid out well. Let the cans soak in warm water for a few hours. Think that helped a lot
Wow, that came out really well. No doubt your extensive surface prep was a huge factor as well.
 

Theory

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Thanks guys!!!

there are a few small blemishes that I will wet sand out. No reason to rush this, she isn’t gonna fly any time soon.

figure 4 days to let the paint harden, will make for a Memorial Day project.
 
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