Krylon Spray Paint Problem

Discussion in 'Low Power Rocketry (LPR)' started by Michael MacDonald, May 4, 2019.

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  1. May 21, 2019 #61

    kevindcornwell

    kevindcornwell

    kevindcornwell

    Magma Mountain Rocketry

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    I had the same problem with the Krylon clear topcoat - on my fins even - and they'd been sitting for two weeks. I'll never waste my time/money on it again.
     
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  2. May 21, 2019 #62

    kevindcornwell

    kevindcornwell

    kevindcornwell

    Magma Mountain Rocketry

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    I use guns and I just shoot outside (under the house - the house is built on stilts 12 feet high. I'm in Hawaii) so I don't get to complain about bugs, but it makes it easy. Also, I use a Wagner finish sprayer which has it's own air source built-in. I also have a proper HVLP and a small airbrush. I use SCUBA tanks for my air source. ( I have free air fills for life due to another story, if I didn't I'd have a compressor.)
     
  3. May 21, 2019 #63

    kevindcornwell

    kevindcornwell

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    On my world class rocket, actually both of them, I spent about $60 each on paint. That was about 10% of the cost. My Rockets only look good before their maiden voyage. After that I don't care, however, it's fun to start shiny. It's also fun to not have to justify why I just spent $200 on paint at Ace Hardware. And then do it again a couple weeks later. I'm still looking for the perfect shiny paint system that cures fast, sands easy, requires minimal effort, and requires no justification when I show off my toys to The Chancellor and Weekly Allowance Parser.
     
  4. May 22, 2019 #64

    gldknght

    gldknght

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    I think I read somewhere that Rustoleum and Testors are made by the same company.
     
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  5. May 22, 2019 #65

    neil_w

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    Yup, same company. Doesn't guarantee compatibility or color matching, though. Best to ask the company when in doubt.
     
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  6. May 22, 2019 #66

    Scott_650

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    Unless Rustoleum takes the time and expense to formulate the same paint with a different smell the Testors branded model paint uses a different solvent/carrier solution than the other Rustoleum branded paints. So far the half dozen or so plastic cones (and a couple of fin cans) that I’ve painted with Testors haven’t wrinkled - I’ve had runs since shifting between model paint and general purpose paint (esp the 2X variety) take different techniques. Light but wet coats of Testors seem to work best for me while Rustoleum 2X takes a couple of fairly heavy coats so it can flow smoothly. Not making ANY claims of being an expert of ANY kind, just sharing what’s worked for me.
     
  7. May 22, 2019 #67

    neil_w

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    I've heard it mentioned once or twice by someone around here that the modeling paints like Testors and Tamiya have finer pigments than the Rusto stuff, and lay down smoother (totally separate issue from crinkling, of course). The Tamiyas are lacquer, though.

    I've been tempted to try them but after accumulating a stock of half-used Rusto colors I feel obligated to use those, at least until I really run into problems.

    The shorter cure times of lacquers are *really* tempting, though.
     
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  8. May 22, 2019 #68

    gldknght

    gldknght

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    Any really hot lacquer based paint really should be sprayed in very light coats over a lacquer compatible primer when painting plastic.

    When I use the 2XRustoleum rattle cans, I usually spray a couple "dust on" coats, Let them dry, then 2 or 3 progressively heavier coats. When I have the finish I want, I like to let the model "bake dry" in the sun, if weather permits. If I can't bake them in the sun, I set them up in front of a fan to blow dry, but only after the paint has dried to the "dust free" stage. If I don't bake or fan the subject, I've noticed that the 2X Rusto will stay sticky for days.
     
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  9. May 22, 2019 #69

    mbeels

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    Putting the tree in rocketry

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    I'm just glad that Krylon changed their lids from the semi circle finger grips (left), to the triangular finger grips (right). I broke too many nozzle tips trying to get the old lids off. Very frustrating. Maybe I was doing it wrong, but the new design works much better!

    P5211288_r.jpg
     
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  10. May 22, 2019 #70

    yorn

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    I stabbed myself with one of those lids when I crushed it between my thumb and index finger trying to remove it, lol.
     
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  11. Jun 1, 2019 #71

    Gunstar

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    Can you brush it on or does it have to be done with a airbrush? I've had Krylon gloss clear mess things up too.
     
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  12. Jun 1, 2019 #72

    neil_w

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  13. Jun 2, 2019 #73

    Philip Tiberius D.

    Philip Tiberius D.

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    Tripoli 18782... Searching for L1

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    Ugh... you caught me at the right time. Having coffee while thinking of painting the nose cone of my "newest creation" a Apogee Zephyr painted in the Porsche 917 (Steve McQueen) / Ford GT40 Gulf colors. I couldn't find an exact match so I went to an auto paint supply house and they were very happy to take $90+ dollars from this slightly eccentric middle age man (I hope my wife doesn't read this post). Started painting yesterday and all I can say is I should have tried Tamiya/Testors/Anybody else... I'm definitely not $90 happy with the application of the paint and that's using a initial spay of something that makes paint stick to everything. Paint came out in spurts (even when shaken for 5 minutes) - the blue applied much better than the red/orange but overall the angels didn't sing when I was painting. Haven't tried Dupli-color but a quick look on Amazon (and possible a trip to Michaels) I noticed "Artist" spray paint sets, I'd be interested to know anyone's experience with these. I have used Tamiya Silver on 2 smaller rockets and the finish came out wonderful btw...
     
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  14. Jun 21, 2019 #74

    kevindcornwell

    kevindcornwell

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    Duplicolor (not rattle can) is the closest I've come to paint nirvana. It's heavy and still more expensive than I can justify. So, I continue looking, but laquer/paint seems to be a cut well above the rest in the context of application & drying.
     
  15. Jul 4, 2019 #75

    Michael MacDonald

    Michael MacDonald

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    Thank you to everyone who have kept this thread alive. I've learned a lot from all of you.
     
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  16. Jul 12, 2019 #76

    beantownJPL

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    Hi all ... I'm fairly new to rocketry, but have done tons of model airplanes. Rarely use paint on planes (almost always used films and decals), so don't have an awful lot of painting experience.

    I was really happy with how this build and paint job came together. Gave it all a nice wet sand with 800 grit, applied the decal and striping. It had cured 24 hours, and then I shot the clear. Wrinkle city. The nose cone is great! The lower part of the model ... not so much.

    It still looks good from a few feet away, but this ain't gonna be a display model! I'll try sanding down the wrinkles ... might be able to mitigate it some. At least the decal didn't get destroyed.

    Thinking of switching over to acrylics instead of enamel/lacquer. Anybody have any thoughts on using acrylics instead? They sure smell a heck of a lot better...

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  17. Jul 12, 2019 #77

    neil_w

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    What kind of paint was it? 24 hours is definitely not enough for enamels to cure before recoating.
     
  18. Jul 12, 2019 #78

    beantownJPL

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    It was the Rustoleum "Painter's Touch" 2x stuff. I didn't figure it needed a very long cure time since I used the same type of paint for the color coat. I've painted other models the same way without issue. Weird.

    Any thoughts on using Acrylics instead of enamels?
     
  19. Jul 12, 2019 #79

    neil_w

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    Same kind of paint doesn’t matter... enamels (especially the Rusto 2x) need a lot of cure time after the initial 1 hour painting window. I always leave *at least* 3 days, often much longer.

    I’ve only just started using acrylics for doing touch-up work. I think they’re probably most used by airbrushers but I’ll defer to those more experienced in that area.
     
  20. Jul 12, 2019 #80

    beantownJPL

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    I've tried my hand at a bit of airbrush work too. This was using thinned down Testors enamels, and the cheap Testors single-stage airbrush. Stunk up my workshop pretty good, and I KNOW those fumes can't be good for me. Another reason I'm thinking of going to Acrylics.

    I used the came can of clear on that one ... only negative result was a bit of curling on the decal on one edge near the top, the rest stuck well and stayed down. I was a little nonplussed, but I learned to live with it.

     
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2019
  21. Jul 12, 2019 #81

    neil_w

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    On the other hand, the Tamiya acrylics stink like nothing I've ever used. I tried a bottle of their black thinking "water-based" meant "odor-free". Not so. :eek:

    Right now I'm experimenting with Vallejo for brushwork, very little odor. Not as durable as the enamels or lacquers from what I gather, but OK for my purposes.
     
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  22. Jul 12, 2019 #82

    hobie1dog

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  23. Jul 12, 2019 #83

    beantownJPL

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    Amazing job. WAY more patience required than I have for a little Estes LPR kit!
     

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