Krylon fusion

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AlexM

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I just went to answer the phone when I saw a commercial for this new Krylon paint. It is called Krylon Fusion and is supposed to bond to plastic without any priming or sanding. I have had so many problems painting nosecones that this is the best thing for me since the discovery of the G80 and 4 dollar crayon banks,
 

Missileman

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I used Krylon Fusion on the nosecone of my Velociraptor.
I was in a hurry and figured because it is advertised to bond to plastic on the molecular level I didn't bother with any prep work.
The paint peels off with even the slightest scrape against anything. I will have to strip the nosecone and start over.
 

AlexM

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So much for that moment of pleasure.
 

AlexM

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you just saved me like five bucks.
 

Missileman

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I can say that Fusion does leave a nice finish if you prepare the surface first. (defeating the claims Krylon makes)
The only real advantage I see is more choice of colors.
One drawback however is the limited time to recoat.
I really prefer regular Krylon as most can recoat anytime (makes a huge difference when multi-coating and using extra color layers.)
 

MetMan

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I wonder if Fusion is similar to Pactra Racing Finish--designed specifically for plastic RC car/truck bodies?

FWIW, I've used the Pactra paint on rockets before. I managed to pick up several cans from Valueland during one of their going out of business sales. It does go on soft and thick, but it's a smooth finish. It seems pretty tough once I clear coat it too. Great fluorescent colors too!

MetMan
 

rbeckey

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I have better luck with Fusion lightly sanding the surface first. It did not stick well to the unsanded PVC legs of my rail pad, but adheres very well to the sanded plastic of the types used in Crayons and Estes type NCs.
 

DynaSoar

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Originally posted by missileman
I used Krylon Fusion on the nosecone of my Velociraptor.
I was in a hurry and figured because it is advertised to bond to plastic on the molecular level I didn't bother with any prep work.
The paint peels off with even the slightest scrape against anything. I will have to strip the nosecone and start over.
I tried Rustoleum's equivalent, Plastic Primer. The good news is, once I started to peel it off, it ALL peeled off.

Appliance epoxy gloms onto both urethane and styrene like it was, well, epoxied to it. No prep, no primer, great finish, like it was vacuum bagged and baked. It's thick and heavy, so it's not the best for performance, but for looks and durability it's the best I've found.

In fact it's so thick that when I scraped some off by misaligning it down a launch rod, I had to use filler to make the repaint come out smooth. It left a gouge. Well, I *did* force it.
 

lalligood

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Originally posted by missileman
I used Krylon Fusion on the nosecone of my Velociraptor.
I was in a hurry and figured because it is advertised to bond to plastic on the molecular level I didn't bother with any prep work.
The paint peels off with even the slightest scrape against anything. I will have to strip the nosecone and start over.
Krylon Fusion (or any Krylon paint for that matter) is designed to stick to plastic nose cones. I do not know of any paint that will stick to release agent though :p At the very least, you MUST wash the nosecone with warm water & soap to get rid of the release agent... And sanding with 200-320 would (have) help(ed) as well. I think you will have much better results then.

HTH,
 

limd21

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Yes - cleaning the nosecone with soap/water or other such method is part of good practice to getting paint to stick. I've not used Fusion myself, but from the description, it appears to be intended to be used directly on plastic with no primer coat.

As a non-Fusion painter, I always prime and believe that helps. Another technique that is used in some industries when painting plastics, including polyethylene, is to "flame treat" the surface. This takes some nerve and a very light touch, but quickly passing the nose cone through a flame (e.g. propane torch) will allow the paint to stick much better. Careful to not melt/distort the nosecone (I've done this once and it's not fun to have to replace a nosecone just because I wasn't being careful!)
 

PunkRocketScience

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Okay, so I tried out the Fusion and it worked okay on QT. But now it's a year or so later and I'm tired of the paint that's on there and chipping. This stuff if REALLY hard to remove. It clogs up my sandpaper worse than anything I've ever sanded before. Anyone have a good removal technique that won't melt the QT?
 

Samuron

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Originally posted by RocketmanTM
This stuff if REALLY hard to remove. It clogs up my sandpaper worse than anything I've ever sanded before. Anyone have a good removal technique that won't melt the QT?
If it's QT and G10 fins, I would wet-sand it; start about 220 grit.

I used it on an ABS sailboat hull, and it was pretty easy to sand down that way.
 

Stymye

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for something that works wonders try
"Bulldog Adhesion Promoter"

works wonders on those plastic cones!
 

Darian Rachal

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I am giving some thought to painting the body tube, fins, & NC with Fusion. I thought maybe it would fill up the spirals better. I assume wiping the NC & fins with alcohol or acetone would work as well as warm, soapy water for getting rid of mold release?

I just thought I'd present my plans to see if I may be making a mistake. Thanks for any advice.
 

wwattles

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My experience with Fusion is that it's not designed as a high-build product. For filling the spirals, you'll still need either a filler or a high-build primer.

Even the thicker final coatings (like appliance epoxy paint) will show spirals if not filled first.

WW
 

Micromeister

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Originally posted by lalligood
Krylon Fusion (or any Krylon paint for that matter) is designed to stick to plastic nose cones. I do not know of any paint that will stick to release agent though :p At the very least, you MUST wash the nosecone with warm water & soap to get rid of the release agent... And sanding with 200-320 would (have) help(ed) as well. I think you will have much better results then.

HTH,
Guy's
Please don't wash your plastic model or styrene plastic parts with soap and water. Soap leaves as much residue as you think your removing:( Fisheye is the most prevalent defect resulting form washing plastic parts in this manor. Instead use plan old rubbing alcohol to remove all trace of release agent, our nasty oily finger prints and other unwanted surface contaminants before we paint. Styrene nose cones with no surface seams or detail might get away with washing but don't try it with any plastic part the has recesses, you'll never get the soap out.
Hope this helps
 

Mad Rocketeer

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Originally posted by Micromeister
Guy's
Please don't wash your plastic model or styrene plastic parts with soap and water. Soap leaves as much residue as you think you're removing:( Fisheye is the most prevalent defect resulting form washing plastic parts in this manor. Instead use plan old rubbing alcohol to remove all trace of release agent, our nasty oily finger prints and other unwanted surface contaminants before we paint. Styrene nose cones with no surface seams or detail might get away with washing but don't try it with any plastic part the has recesses, you'll never get the soap out.
Hope this helps
Remember the old Zest commercials where they took a pair of glasses, dipped one lens in a soap solution, and dipped the other lens in a solution of Zest and water? The soap side was filmy, but the Zest side was clear. Zest was (is?) a detergent-based product. For cleaning nosecones, a strong and clean rinsing detergent like Dawn diswashing liquid might do the trick. I'd still do the alcohol thing afterward though, so it might not gain you anything unless the nose was noticibly oily or something. We can get 91% isopropal (rubbing) alcohol at the supermarket (HEB) here. It's not so wet, so it dries faster and works quicker than the 50% or even 70% stuff.
 

rbeckey

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WalMart carries 91% alcohol. I use it as a solvent for uncured epoxy.
 

mrbusdriver

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I build model planes as well as rockets...was curious to try the Fusion paint. Krylon normally "crazes" the plastic while drying, making a high gloss finish impossible. I painted the fuselage of an airliner with fusion white and it is beautiful and glossy. I recently painted the body of a couple of rockets with the fusion White, will be watching for durability issues.
As for nose cones, a good cleaning/alcohol wipedown goes a long way toward durability with any paint in this "high impact" area...

Good luck,
Dave
 

BrnAgainRoc

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Originally posted by MetMan
I wonder if Fusion is similar to Pactra Racing Finish--designed specifically for plastic RC car/truck bodies?

FWIW, I've used the Pactra paint on rockets before. I managed to pick up several cans from Valueland during one of their going out of business sales. It does go on soft and thick, but it's a smooth finish. It seems pretty tough once I clear coat it too. Great fluorescent colors too!

MetMan
yes the fusion is for plastic models and rc boats.The paint itelf has wonderful colors and looks great BUT it peels easily. So if you do use this paint make sure to prep anything you paint and make sure you do multiple coats and clear coats. its the only way this paint will do what its supposed to do. If you spraypaint id advise you to buy some of that industrial paint at a local paint store. Its REALLY fast drying and its great for high speeds and temps runs about $6 for a big can that can paint up to 60 feet.
 

BrnAgainRoc

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Originally posted by RocketmanTM
Okay, so I tried out the Fusion and it worked okay on QT. But now it's a year or so later and I'm tired of the paint that's on there and chipping. This stuff if REALLY hard to remove. It clogs up my sandpaper worse than anything I've ever sanded before. Anyone have a good removal technique that won't melt the QT?
tryusing some paint remover or paint thinner. If its to strong dilute it woth a lil water and itll bring the paint right off.
 

Adam Selene

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Originally posted by Badboy1982
make sure you do multiple coats and clear coats.
the manufacturer specificly states NOT to apply any clear coat over fusion.
 

BrnAgainRoc

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Originally posted by Adam Selene
the manufacturer specificly states NOT to apply any clear coat over fusion.
And fireworks says dont hold in hand while lighting fuses.... Ive used the paint many different ways and ive seen many different finishes from it with and without clearcoat i was just sharing my knowledge. :rolleyes:
 

mrbusdriver

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One significant note...Fusion has a recoat limitation of withing 24 hours or after 7 days...unlike the "recoat anytime" of the original formula.

Dave
 
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