Kreh Knot Now My Go to Knot for Tying Shroud Lines

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That’s a good knot to know, kinda like a clinch knot but with a fixed loop. I’ve started using the Alpine Butterfly to attach parachutes to a shock cord that does not have a loop already created for it. Similar function in that it creates a fixed loop.

For me the downside to those kinds of knots is that if I don’t use one for even just a week or two, I forget how to tie them. I should look for a knot tying app.


Tony
 
The bowline is obvioulsy a good knot, but like any knot, it has its limitations. It can come undone if not under load, especially with certain kinds of material. The fact that it is easily undone is one reason it is often used in rescue and other situations where conditions can rapidly change. Wrapped knots, like the clinch or the Kreh as shown above, are a more permanent style of knot designed to not come undone when not under load and especially when dealing with cordage that may have a tendency to slip. I use a lot of kevlar that has a slick finish that won't hold some knots very well at all, so I end up using wrapped knots quite a bit.

As always, the right tool (knot) for the job makes for a better outcome.


Tony
 
The “Lefty Kreh” is a good knot for what manixFan states.

I use the 'figure 8' knot for kevlar shock cords. This is a common climber knot that holds, doesn't come undone without tension and is pretty easy to untie (n important criteria for climbing/rescue knots).
 
That’s a good knot to know, kinda like a clinch knot but with a fixed loop. I’ve started using the Alpine Butterfly to attach parachutes to a shock cord that does not have a loop already created for it. Similar function in that it creates a fixed loop.

For me the downside to those kinds of knots is that if I don’t use one for even just a week or two, I forget how to tie them. I should look for a knot tying app.


Tony
I like the butterfly knot! I have think I just tied one!

9A65043D-2B92-465C-A389-C6A2A62176B5.jpeg
 
The bowline is obvioulsy a good knot, but like any knot, it has its limitations. It can come undone if not under load, especially with certain kinds of material. The fact that it is easily undone is one reason it is often used in rescue and other situations where conditions can rapidly change. Wrapped knots, like the clinch or the Kreh as shown above, are a more permanent style of knot designed to not come undone when not under load and especially when dealing with cordage that may have a tendency to slip. I use a lot of kevlar that has a slick finish that won't hold some knots very well at all, so I end up using wrapped knots quite a bit.
I'm going to try it!
I was using bowline knots in some 500# kevlar and noted that the knots didn't seem to be very tight. I wrapped thread around the tail and main line then put some wood glue over them This seems to hold the knot in place and even if it is loose, it tightens up under load.
Related to shroud lines- I bought some nylon thread at HobbyLobby to build new plastic chutes with and it is hard to tie knots in too. I did some tests again by tying a bowline and putting a small dab of wood glue on the knot. This seems to hold it together well.
I didn't use epoxy for either of these because I read that it makes kevlar brittle at the edge of the glue, the wood glue never gets that hard.
 
The “Lefty Kreh” is a good knot for what manixFan states.

I use the 'figure 8' knot for kevlar shock cords. This is a common climber knot that holds, doesn't come undone without tension and is pretty easy to untie (n important criteria for climbing/rescue knots).
Sometimes I use the figure 8 follow through knot. Super strong. Makes a loop that goes around or through another object. Kind of a big knot though.

https://www.101knots.com/figure-8-follow-through.html
 
I have always used a double half-hitch. I know it's pretty unsophisticated, but is it really that bad? I don't see it mentioned by others. It has never failed me and I have been able to take it apart without issue.
 
For me the downside to those kinds of knots is that if I don’t use one for even just a week or two, I forget how to tie them. I should look for a knot tying app.

I really like these knot cards:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0922273227/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They're very convenient to quickly remind yourself how to tie a knot you don't use often. The grommet keeping them attached together is a nice touch on top of being sturdy and waterproof. I keep one set in the car with my kayak straps for tying those down, and one on my desk for rockets and other hobby/crafts projects. There is also a book with a much larger number of knots that is bundled with a set of the cards, a pretty good deal if you want to read & practice without using a computer or phone (the same author has all their drawings & animated versions at https://www.netknots.com/).

That particular pack is a good selection of basic, widely useful knots. The same author has a couple that are more heavily oriented to different forms of fishing, which might have useful knots for rocketry. I notice the fly fishing pack includes the Kreh loop. The general fishing pack includes the Palomar knot which I have also seen mentioned in rocketry use.

As a sidenote, I often use a buntline hitch on rockets, for reasons discussed here. I'll have to play around with the Kreh loop, and the Palomar.
 
The problem with many of these knots is that it’s hard to exactly adjust the length of the shroud line. I pair my shroud lines so each end of one line is tied to a corner. When done, all the lines need to be the exact same length for an even parachute. Tying a Kreh knot works fine for the first knot of each line and the second knot of the first line. Getting the knots on all the other lines so everything is the same length is not easy. I find a bowline is the easiest to adjust the length on, then a spot of diluted Titebond. The supposed weakness of a bowline is the ability to loosen when slack, though this has not been a problem for me with smaller diameter threads. Braided nylon, you've got a problem.
 
The problem with many of these knots is that it’s hard to exactly adjust the length of the shroud line. I pair my shroud lines so each end of one line is tied to a corner. When done, all the lines need to be the exact same length for an even parachute. Tying a Kreh knot works fine for the first knot of each line and the second knot of the first line. Getting the knots on all the other lines so everything is the same length is not easy. I find a bowline is the easiest to adjust the length on, then a spot of diluted Titebond. The supposed weakness of a bowline is the ability to loosen when slack, though this has not been a problem for me with smaller diameter threads. Braided nylon, you've got a problem.


It helps if you dot the shroud lines with permanent marker, all at the same length. Then you keep that dot centered up and snug on the hole in the cloth as you form the loop.
 
The “Lefty Kreh” fishing type knot is now my go to knot for tying shroud lines. Strong. And the tag end points toward the canopy. Makes a nice loop.
View attachment 480154
https://www.101knots.com/non-slip-kreh-loop-knot.html
I experimented with a “poacher’s knot” because it seemed easy to tie. It creates a loop, yes, but it acts like a “snare”. Under load, the loop constricts down onto whatever it is looped around until it is as tight as it can get. That’s not what I want parachute shroud lines. I should have paid attention to the knot’s name: “poacher’s” knot. Doh!

https://www.101knots.com/poachers-knot.html
 
Has anyone tried to do a loop splice on the kevlar cord? With larger kevlar rope, the rope is tubular, and hollow in the inside. You form a loop splice by separating some of the strands, then tucking the tail end inside the hollow rope with a hollow splicing fid. Works like the bamboo finger traps. I've done this on larger, 3/4 inch kevlar rope, but in theory it should work on the hollow braided cord too.

https://www.animatedknots.com/long-bury-splice-knot
 
The problem with many of these knots is that it’s hard to exactly adjust the length of the shroud line. I pair my shroud lines so each end of one line is tied to a corner. When done, all the lines need to be the exact same length for an even parachute. Tying a Kreh knot works fine for the first knot of each line and the second knot of the first line. Getting the knots on all the other lines so everything is the same length is not easy. I find a bowline is the easiest to adjust the length on, then a spot of diluted Titebond. The supposed weakness of a bowline is the ability to loosen when slack, though this has not been a problem for me with smaller diameter threads. Braided nylon, you've got a problem.

I tie on each shroud line (6 separate lines) with a loop knot. Then I stick a long, straight, skinny rod through the hole in the parachute. This ensures each shroud line starts in the same place on the parachute. Then I stretch them all out amd tie the lines together using a double overhand knot. Then I cut off the excess line. Then I put a dot of wood glue on each knot to keep it from coming loose.
06B8ACDB-90A8-4CBC-8B2C-A2900C5998BC.jpeg
2A676E3B-955E-4569-80CA-AAE3EF1811E9.jpeg
2C41E290-8344-4A84-B01D-53087BD33F03.jpeg
90ADCEEB-4257-436A-B8E0-B7BA90E6B388.jpeg
 
I have always used a double half-hitch. I know it's pretty unsophisticated, but is it really that bad? I don't see it mentioned by others. It has never failed me and I have been able to take it apart without issue.
Ok, I now grok the double half-hitch. Certainly is easy to tie. At least with cotton string.
242F7F73-F649-4D5B-9B7B-B541FB89193D.jpeg
 
I have always used a double half-hitch. I know it's pretty unsophisticated, but is it really that bad? I don't see it mentioned by others. It has never failed me and I have been able to take it apart without issue.
When I use twisted polypropylene cord the knot just collapses all the way down and I lose my loop. Let me try again…

image.jpg
 
The “Lefty Kreh” fishing type knot is now my go to knot for tying shroud lines. Strong. And the tag end points toward the canopy. Makes a nice loop.
View attachment 480154
https://www.101knots.com/non-slip-kreh-loop-knot.html
Here’s the figure 8 follow theough knot. Makes a loop around or through an object when you only have access to one end of the line. Strong. Doesn’t tend to come loose. Only downside is the tag end points away from the object it is looped around or looped through 184A7217-6058-42DD-BEB2-0FC7FB55AAE1.jpeg
 
Has anyone tried to do a loop splice on the kevlar cord? With larger kevlar rope, the rope is tubular, and hollow in the inside. You form a loop splice by separating some of the strands, then tucking the tail end inside the hollow rope with a hollow splicing fid. Works like the bamboo finger traps. I've done this on larger, 3/4 inch kevlar rope, but in theory it should work on the hollow braided cord too.
Yes. I do eye splices ("finger trap") on both Tubular kevlar and tubular nylon. I just did it on some of the 1/8" tubular kevlar. Make SURE to finish with lock-stiching. I use kevlar thread for this. Both tubular kevlar and nylon are "slippery" and the finger trap by itself can work (creep) loose over time.

Let me know if anyone would like me to take step-by-step photos for how I do these small lines.

 
Has anyone tried to do a loop splice on the kevlar cord? With larger kevlar rope, the rope is tubular, and hollow in the inside. You form a loop splice by separating some of the strands, then tucking the tail end inside the hollow rope with a hollow splicing fid. Works like the bamboo finger traps. I've done this on larger, 3/4 inch kevlar rope, but in theory it should work on the hollow braided cord too.

https://www.animatedknots.com/long-bury-splice-knot
I pretty much use the ‘finger trap’ method with all my Kevlar type line. I’ve never had it fail. I don’t use a FID, instead I use a loop of thin copper wire which works well. I use heat shrink wherever the cord might rub along the edge of a body tube, and at the top of the loop.

Tony
 
There are 2 problems with all these fancy knots. Remembering how to tie them. And getting them undone. Fishermen have hundreds of feet of line. You need it undone just cut it off and tie a new one.
I use a bowline with a half hitch. You can tie it easily and you can always get it undone. Never cut off a knot yet. YMMV.
 
There are 2 problems with all these fancy knots. Remembering how to tie them. And getting them undone. Fishermen have hundreds of feet of line. You need it undone just cut it off and tie a new one.
I use a bowline with a half hitch. You can tie it easily and you can always get it undone. Never cut off a knot yet. YMMV.
As mentioned earlier in the thread, the bowline knot does not always work well depending on the cord or rope type, hence the need for other knots. I generally use finger traps when possible, which technically isn't a knot, it's a splice.

If one knot worked everywhere, there wouldn't be so many knots!


Tony
 
As mentioned earlier in the thread, the bowline knot does not always work well depending on the cord or rope type, hence the need for other knots. I generally use finger traps when possible, which technically isn't a knot, it's a splice.

If one knot worked everywhere, there wouldn't be so many knots!


Tony
There are a lot of knots. Mainly for fishing. Where you’re using disposable line. As I noted you won’t get those knots undone. Which to me is a larger disadvantage. To join 2 dissimilar ropes with a bowline and a half hitch. Tape the tail back and it’s not accidentally coming undone. Simply use 2 bowlines. If I was using fishing line I might use a different knot. But then I’d have plenty of it to cut off. The bowline is not the highest strength knot but as most harnesses are so highly over rated it makes little overall difference.
What rope/cord are people having an issue with?

note. I’ve just tested bowline with half hitch on braided Kevlar thread 0.4mm dia to breaking. It broke at about 20 kg load with no slippage. Seems about right.

However please feel free to use whatever knot you and the RSO are happy with. 😀🍿
 
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There are a lot of knots. Mainly for fishing. Where you’re using disposable line. As I noted you won’t get those knots undone. Which to me is a larger disadvantage. To join 2 dissimilar ropes with a bowline and a half hitch. Tape the tail back and it’s not accidentally coming undone. Simply use 2 bowlines. If I was using fishing line I might use a different knot. But then I’d have plenty of it to cut off. The bowline is not the highest strength knot but as most harnesses are so highly over rated it makes little overall difference.
What rope/cord are people having an issue with?

note. I’ve just tested bowline with half hitch on braided Kevlar thread 0.4mm dia to breaking. It broke at about 20 kg load with no slippage. Seems about right.

However please feel free to use whatever knot you and the RSO are happy with. 😀🍿
Ok, to beat a somewhat dead horse, as mentioned, when using slippery cordage, such as Technora, which is what I use, a wrapped knot is preferable to typical knots used for rope made of cotton or jute, which is what many knots were originally designed for. If you compare climbing rope to something like Technora, the climbing rope offers a good 'grip', while the Technora is very slippery. As a result, knots that work well with normal cordage don't work so well with slippery material. Here's a good example:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Triple_fisherman's_knot
It specifically states "The triple fisherman's knot...is recommended for tying slippery, stiff ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) and aramid cored ropes." (Technora is an aramid fiber.) The key is the wrapped line. Here's another good example:

https://www.marlowropes.com/sites/default/files/Retained strength Knots v Splices infographic_0.pdf
The above PDF shows how different ropes compare with several knots, including a bowline. The bowline suffers from a large reduction in rope strength, with up to a 80% loss with D2 rope (Dyneema, which is somewhat similar to an aramid fiber). But with a polyester rope, the loss is only about 50%. Based on that info, a bowline knot is not suitable for something like Technora or Kevlar. Note that splices retain a much higher percentage of the original rope strength.

Moral of the story: different types of rope/cordage require different kinds of knots to retain maximum strength. One size knot does not fit all. For Technora, I generally use a splice but if I have to use a knot, I want to maintain as much of the strength of the cord as possible, while also ensuring the knot is secure with the slippery nature of Technora.

If you are unconcerned with the strength of your knots, then all this may be moot. But I feel it's worth spending some time on how to make the best recovery system possible.


Tony
 
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Revisiting an older thread. There are a lot of knot (knotty?) threads here, but this particular one kind of fits with my way of thinking about all this. In particular, the suggestions here are all good, and got me to experiment with the various knots. Let me emphasize that I'm talking about small, light LPR. You guys launching telephone pole size HPR are using harnesses or rope - as opposed to string - that require better technique than I need. Here's what I've come up with:

Criteria:
Easy to tie, not too bulky. In particular, I'm concerned with knots that will loosen over time, as I recently had a knot in a shock cord come undone, resulting in a crash. When not under tension, Kevlar seems to "relax" and the knot loosens. That's what has lead me to research this and experiment. Lots of discussion here and in other threads about knots reducing the overall strength of the cord, but I'm compensating by using (what I think) is a Kevlar line that is considerably bigger than needed. Easy to tie is a must. One of my experiments was to join the ends of a simple loop together with the Fisherman's knot. It was a very small loop, and it took me over a half hour to tie it, as the 60# Kevlar seems to have a mind of it's own and doesn't want to cooperate. At one point, I had 3 very small flat jaw alligator clips and/or self closing tweezers holding the partially completed knot together while I attempted to complete it. Then I realized that I forgot to include the snap swivel in the loop, and had to start over. Enough. I'm knot going to use that not. (See what I just did there? Oh, never mind...)

As for splicing using the "finger trap" method, that would be all but impossible for me to accomplish in the very small diameter lines I'm using, given my relative lack of dexterity and poor eyesight. So knots are a must for me.

Here's what I'm using and why:

1. Small Kevlar loop that is used to "gather" the shroud lines - see Peak of Flight #368 (https://www.apogeerockets.com/education/downloads/Newsletter368.pdf) for what I'm talking about. I'm using a simple offset overhand bend to join the ends of the loop together. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Offset_overhand_bend It's not the best knot by far, however any attempts by me to use something better just simply won't go together with my fat, very clumsy fingers given the short length of the loop. I finish it up with a bit of wood glue, and a very short length (~1/4") of heat shrink on the ends to (hopefully) prevent it from coming apart.

2. For just about everything else, I'm using a Figure 8 knot. I tried the Kreh, but it doesn't finish up for me like in the pictures. Instead of a nice wrap, I get a messy ball. It's either the string I'm using or bad technique on my part. I tried bowline and surgeon's loop. Again, working on small line, especially if the length is short, simply didn't work for me. Some of the knots I tried ended up being too bulky. I'm finding the Figure 8 easy to tie, and "reverse threading" to make a loop around something (think snap swivel) is surprisingly easy. And it's not too bulky. A dab of wood glue, and a bit of heat shrink to hold the end down finishes it.

3. Rubber or elastic: I'm using 350# Kevlar inside the rocket, which I hope will be permanent. It's too awkward for me to replace. Typically I'm anchoring it to a baffle. I put a Figure 8 loop in the end of this, to which I attach rubber or elastic. Then at the end of the elastic, I'm using several feet of 150# Kevlar which goes to the chute (on a loop 18" or so from the nosecone) and to the nosecone - again with a Figure 8 loop on each end of the Kevlar. I don't attempt to knot the elastic and Kevlar together, as the size difference I think makes most bend type knots ineffective. Tying 1/4" wide rubber using a "decent" knot is difficult. So I'm using what is suggested in the Estes' instruction: a simple overhand knot, followed up with another. I'd never do this with any normal cord, but the rubber is "grippy" and the knot seems to resist coming undone. A spot of wood glue, and tape the loose end so it doesn't catch on anything. Too afraid to try heat shrink to hold the loose end on rubber! I've yet to have this come undone, at least not before the rubber/elastic needs to be replaced anyway. And replacement is easy, as it just attaches to a Kevlar loop on each end.

4. Loop mid cord in Kevlar to attach the chute using a snap swivel: I tried both the Alpine butterfly and a simple overhand loop. For this application, I don't think it matters. In theory, it could loosen, but it can't come undone given that the loop is trapped by the snap swivel. The Alpine probably has less effect on the overall strength of the cord though.

Hans.
 
I was using the bowline for kevlar shock cords in my LPR, then putting a small dab of wood glue on each knot so it wouldn't loosen. Later I found the double bowline and it doesn't seem to be prone to coming undone so I've been using it. I learned the bowline as a fisherman so I don't have to learn something new. However I'll try this new knot to see how it works out.
 

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