Is Shooting a Viking Rocket legal?

Discussion in 'The Watering Hole' started by Matt_The_RocketMan, Feb 19, 2019.

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  1. Jul 18, 2019 #91

    Matt_The_RocketMan

    Matt_The_RocketMan

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    It may not be a better way of keeping the engine in the rocket , but at least you dont have to worry about over friction fitting, hence you dont have to tear up a good rocket just to get the empty engine casing out
     
  2. Jul 18, 2019 #92

    kuririn

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    Use BOTH friction fit and a tape wrap at the end of the motor. If your motor still kicks out then you are doing something wrong.
    And the nose cone of the Swift doesn't kick out cuz it's supposed to be glued in. The motor is supposed to be loose, not friction fitted too tight, since it's supposed to kick out. Some RSOs don't allow motor eject rockets, some do depending on field conditions.
    Welcome back, kid. Always find your posts entertaining.
    PS Just saw your post above mine. Use pliers to remove a tight fitting motor.
    PPS I've used tape wrap alone (without friction fit) many times and never had a failure.
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2019
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  3. Jul 18, 2019 #93

    lakeroadster

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    The heat generated inside the motor itself tends to increase the motors diameter, due to thermal expansion. Thus the motor gets tighter in the rocket and less likely to be expelled... if the friction fit is indeed snug prior to ignition.
     
  4. Jul 18, 2019 #94

    Matt_The_RocketMan

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    Is there a certain type of tape that cannot be used when doing a friction fit? I think that clear tape may not be useful at all, I would think it melts when the engine heats up, thus the tap is sorta there" and it requires more than pliers to get the motor out.

    And for swift, i would think that the mini' would melt the inside of the nose cone , it might not go anywhere , but probably after a lot of uses the plastic may start becoming more brittle/ holes may appear, but maybe not depends on how much heat can be absorbed by the nose cone...

    Maybe I could start looking for other ways of keeping the engine inside with a relatively non existent failure rate...

    PS. doesn't gluing the nosecone in make any rocket ceptable to blowing up?
     
  5. Jul 18, 2019 #95

    Nytrunner

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    Thin masking tape is appropriate for friction fit. A bit around the top of the motor, and again around the bottom. But as you've discovered, not too much, otherwise the motor expands and you have to bung out the nozzle and peel it out from the inside. Clear (cello) tape may actually glue the motor in with heat, and that's exactly what you don't want.

    The mini engine is fine for the swift. Has been for 15 years. If you're worried about it, put a half a square of wadding in the nose before you glue it on.
    Also for the swift, the motor is intended to eject, so no it won't blow up.
     
  6. Jul 18, 2019 #96

    Matt_The_RocketMan

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    Thanks for telling me that about Swift, I thought the dang thing would pop as soon as its recovery system came online.

    Friction fitting in its shaky history with me, is a scientific method that "works" when an exact amount of tape is wrapped around the motor. From my general understanding of having no proper engine mounts makes me worry when the rocket is supposed to function at 100%, safely at competitions. I am currently looking for alternative sources of keeping the motor inside the engine bay. I personally, hold high regards to the Viking rocket, due to it being one of the highest flying rocket using only a 18mm engine. The only problem with the rocket which in my terms and most NAR safety personal at competitions is the the kick back from the engine. I would rate the safety of the rocket at a (higher caution rocket) under this i would label on the rocket; make sure that all NAR rules are reviewed before the flight of this rocket especially the build of the rocket, and the surroundings of where it is being shot in.

     
  7. Jul 18, 2019 #97

    kuririn

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    The Viking is an entry level rocket. It is designed with the fewest number of parts for ease of assembly and low cost. Minimum diameter so no motor mount, only a thrust ring. Perfect beginner's rocket.
    If secure motor retention is important to you, consider getting an Estes Hi Flyer instead. Minimum diameter as well, but with an engine hook on the tube secured with a retainer ring. Slightly more challenging build.
    Estes designs and features are each targeted for a particular market segment. Choose accordingly.
     
  8. Jul 19, 2019 #98

    Matt_The_RocketMan

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    haha , its not about the ease of the build, I think its the actual saftey of the rocket for those who use it, dont worry ive build many complex rockets.
     
  9. Jul 19, 2019 #99

    kuririn

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    Friction fit is as safe as any other retention system. It's not the method, but correctly using it that determines the safety and your success. When I first started building and flying rockets EVERY kit was friction fit. From the simplest with featherweight or tumble recovery to the most complex clustered rockets.
    Nowdays if there is no engine hook or retainer I prefer tape wrap on the end instead of friction fit. Like I said, works every time, no struggling to get the motor out. Laters.
     
  10. Jul 19, 2019 #100

    beeblebrox

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    Wrap 1/2" masking tape around the nozzle end of the motor until the tape thrust ring is the same diameter as the tube OD. about 4-6 wraps depending on how thick the tape is. then wrap one wrap of 1/2" tape over the seam between the motor tape ring and the body tube. This is tried and true and your motor will not eject, you can also the use different length motors since there is no thrust ring needed in the rocket. Use 1/2" tape for 18mm and 24mmnotors. Use 3/4" tape for 29mm and 38mm motors. 1" Tape for 54mm motors. (Less then 500NT av. Thrust) Use some sort of metal retainer for larger than that. This WAS the method for decades, It works. Any questions PM ME.
     
  11. Jul 19, 2019 #101

    Matt_The_RocketMan

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    For the Viking rocket could i place the engine block ring like 5cm back so that the motor hangs out more? Initially I could have a larger space to mask the motor in place with both techniques. Initially this may work, or may not work, 5cm maybe to much hangout for the motor after it ejects , but it could make the tighter friction fits a little less troublesome
     
  12. Jul 19, 2019 #102

    Donnager

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    Got tired of the tape/friction fit in my Viking, so I built a 2X upscale, to test Loctite Powergrab for fillets.

    For me, did not work, too flexible and didn't penetrate well. The edges didn't seem to be stuck that well, so I fidgeted with it and eventually peeled it all back off, but made the fillet edges a little janky.

    Re-did fillets with epoxy, and I now have a Viking that will fly anything 24mm.
    upload_2019-7-19_13-42-7.png
     
  13. Jul 19, 2019 #103

    Matt_The_RocketMan

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    that a nice rocket you have there, and it solves the problem A-okay for you, but for the original viking it is literally meant to be light weight and a high-flier, that is why i dint add a engine hook, do to the added weight, the comp I go to only lets use use mini's all the way up to B6-4 impulse so the rocket that goes the highest wins, this is why the rocket is key to winning, I also choose it to due to the height requirements of minimal 12 inches. Nice build but that's not what i am looking for
     
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