Indominus Rex (aka ProLine AGM-58)

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fyrfytr310

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Hot off the heels of my successful L2 I felt the best way to celebrate would be to start a new build!

I purchased a ProLine AGM-58 from RW during a HDHH a few weeks ago and this will be my project going forward. My daughter begged me to name this kit after her new favorite genetically modified hybrid dinosaur. I must oblige.

With this build I hope to make improvements to my filleting techniques as well as exhibit better overall control of epoxy use. My last kit was heavier than it needed to be. With this build I also hope to gain some experience that will lead into an eventual L3 attempt. I will employ redundant electronics and, if I can get them to fit, switches for all power and charges. I also want to explore the world of GPS tracking and actually get a camera mounted on this pig.

I bought this with the optional 75mm mount and right now I am thinking the L1520 would make for a cool flight but that is a decision that will go through many iterations. I plan to do shake out flight with mid K motors.

Picture 1... Bath Time!

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Well I had to do something on this tonight besides wash parts.

Switch band installed and drying with West Systems:

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I am going to make camera mounting a priority so I don't push it off to the point where I get too pressed for time right before launch.
 
Wow, that is a nice scale kit! I think you turned me on to something...

Will you use the 3D printed camera mount from Etsy? I'm contemplating ideas for cameras on my current project. I want two cameras, one on the booster pointing down, and one on the payload section pointing down (My DD configuration will have only one airframe separation point).
 
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I am actually going to mount the camera body internally and the lens externally. Haven't decided on orientation.
 
You know I bought that cable for my Mobius and it doesn't physically fit in the connector. I don't know what is up with it.....
 
So I am thinking about mounting the camera in the nose shoulder. I know that has been done by many. Any advice out there?

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Not sure I would be of much help at this point as I am in the middle of designing a fairly elaborate carbon fiber electronics bay of my own which will house two Mobius cameras (one for DVR and one for DVR/FPV), an Immersion 5.8ghz A/V transmitter, an Eggfinder GPS transmitter, two Raven 3 altimeters, a 2.4ghz RC receiver, two servos and a power distribution board with two lipo batteries to power the system. A carbon fiber I/O access panel will be fabricated and accessible from outside of the airframe without having to remove the A/V bay lid to program, download data and charge the system. This panel will be visible through a contoured acrylic window that will have the same radius as the airframe.

I would suggest using (or figuring out what the deal is) the Mobius lens extension cable to which I posted the link, disassembling the camera unit entirely and mounting the camera board to a removable carriage. I will be doing the same. The carriage will be CF and I will be using lots of miscellaneous PC hardware (standoffs, screws, etc.) to fasten the assemblies. As far as lens attachment, I am cutting windows into the airframe and fabricating my own brackets and fiberglass shrouds to shield the lenses outside the airframe. I'll have both axial-aft and lateral-horizontal view angles, either of which can be used for FPV/DVR.

Nothing specific, but perhaps this sparks thought. Let us know what you come up with.
 
^Thanks for that!

So much for taking it easy on epoxy. Had some build up on one side of the switch band causing a separation between the BT and the switch band:

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Oh well. Nothing a little sanding on both the over done epoxy and the inner edge of the body tube to make things right:

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I need to make my selection for altimeter #2. I have a Stratologger CF and I am kicking around getting another PerfectFlite but that would steal some from true redundancy. What do you all think? At least with the PF I already have the data comms equipment...
 
Using another Av-bay lid as a template, I drilled the all-thread holes in those supplied by ProLine.

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Now to trim the all-thread.

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I am on the fence about which 75mm case to buy. The 1280 looks nice price wise but is very minutes in reloads. Each larger case comes at about a $100 per size penalty but will allow for more reloads... Decisions. Decisions.
 
Alright, some parts finally arrived. My Aero Pack retainer, extra CR, rail buttons and sled material are on the desk next to me. Hopefully I can make some progress this weekend after we get back from camping. I guess I could bring some of this with me to work on in the woods. Couldn't I?
 
So just an update for the throngs of people watching this thread (good humor sarcasm): my hobbies are delayed at the moment, got a nice promotion at work that came with greatly increased responsibilities and, more importantly, last Thursday my wife delivered I to this world our next young rocketeer! Priorities first, hobbies second. I'll be back on this build shortly.
 
So just an update for the throngs of people watching this thread (good humor sarcasm): my hobbies are delayed at the moment, got a nice promotion at work that came with greatly increased responsibilities and, more importantly, last Thursday my wife delivered I to this world our next young rocketeer! Priorities first, hobbies second. I'll be back on this build shortly.

Congratulations on the great news! Best luck to you on the new job and wishing you the best for your newest family member! :)

See you in maybe..6 years? :wink: J/K
 
Finally getting back to this. So my thoughts are to open up the split fin slots into three total, longer slots. This way I could try my hand at assembling the fins to the mmt and sliding the single unit into the airframe. Any reason not to do this with a glass rocket? Should I add CRs to regain strength?
 
A little forward progress today. I found a switch I pulled out of a vacuum cleaner last year and thought, "What the heck? Altimeter switch!"

**Note to self: Buy a dang Dremel. 😡

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With any luck, when depressed, it might flush with the airframe nicely,

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Using a drill bit to make a square hole is not advised.

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A little JB to fill that gap and we are off and running.

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Not a bad flush fitment but I will probably trim it out to cover the cutout hack job.

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So I'm going to move forward with cutting the airframe, installing all CRs and doing internal fin fillets to the mmt. Let the CR installation begin:

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My fillet control sucked but it is internal so I'm not going to lose sleep over it.

With this build, I wanted to install a camera in the nose shoulder. Since this kit required the use of a coupler to make the shoulder, I have ordered additional AV bay lids and hardware to make a fixed compartment for the camera to mount. I will drill a hole in both the shoulder and airframe, whose alignment will be maintained by the shear pins:

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The all-thread pictured was just for test fitting, the actual rod will be cut to fit.

Tomorrow I hope to install the rest of the CRs and cut the airframe. This week will hopefully see the completion of the fin installation.
 
Do you have any concerns about that switch rattling "unset" during flight? I assume it is very resistant to vibration?
 
Well now I do. I would 'think' it would be ok but I have no data to support that assumption. Has there been history of maintained PBs failing in flight?

Do you have any concerns about that switch rattling "unset" during flight? I assume it is very resistant to vibration?
 
So much for my plans. Work emergency put me in Texarkana this week.... No rocket play until Friday.
 
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