Igniters

Discussion in 'MicroMaxx (MMX)' started by kpklein, Feb 16, 2012.

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  1. Feb 16, 2012 #1

    kpklein

    kpklein

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    I have a bunch of Micromaxx motors from about ten years ago. Since I do'nt have the store baught launcher for them, how can I ignite them?
     
  2. Feb 16, 2012 #2

    plano-doug

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    The black plastic parts can be pried apart leaving only the metal bits. You can then attach regular clips to the ends. But getting the ignitor to stay in the rocket motor with the weight of the clips pulling on it is a different story.

    I've used a clothes pin and taped the ignitor to that, then clipped the clothes pin to the rod and slid the rocket down over the ignitor.

    HTH.

    Doug

    .
     
  3. Feb 16, 2012 #3

    gpoehlein

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    You can also order the micromaxx Q2 igniters (not Q2G2 and not regular Q2 igniters - these have no pyrogen on the nichrome) from Quest, and I think from Fliskits. They work quite well.
     
  4. Feb 16, 2012 #4

    Chugosh

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    I had five launches from one of the Q2 Micro igniters. I had the controller wires clothespinned to the blast plate, and the wires, clips and the igniter were stiff enough to hold up the rockets, sitting on the igniter on the propellant. I was using a 6v Estes Electron Beam controller. The lower voltage takes longer to light off the motor, but the nichrome stays intact.
     
  5. Feb 16, 2012 #5

    Blakkzakk

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    I've used Estes igniters on MMX IIs. Usually, they work, as long as the igniter leads don't get shorted.
     
  6. Feb 16, 2012 #6

    JPVegh

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    A tooth pick can be used for an igniter plug.
     
  7. Feb 16, 2012 #7

    Micromeister

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    I'm assuming your speaking of the Old Plastic Plug-in type MMX igniters.

    A couple pair of pliers will easily open the plugs by gripping the tab ears and pulling apart. then carefully pop the taped igniter out. it can then be used as you would any other igniter.

    Personally I use 30ga. .100" bare Nichrome wire for just about all my micro flying. Bending them while watching TV it's easy to make 100 or more during a show;)

    Any of the various igniters can be held in place by the OLD wadding ball and tape method
    Or if you use a toothpick to gently hold the igniter in the nozzle just held in by the weight of the model sitting on the launcher. DO NOT push the toothpick in hard or you will cato the motor.

    MM Igniters-a3_MM igniters &Q2-type a&b_00-06.jpg

    11_8pic Wadding Ball install Pg_03-26-06.jpg

    Fliskit Toothpick igniter holding instruction_05-06.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2012
  8. Oct 12, 2019 #8

    Joekeyo

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    I found this old thread. I thought this was a good place as any to reignite (pun intended)the motor starter conversation. We have established that Estes is using corn starch as a pyrogen. Probably better than nothing, but probably not much. I understand that dry, loose corn starch is flammable due to the abundant surface area. It seems like if it is mixed with glue and solid, I would expect that this process would be much diminished. I long for that blue stuff from back in the day. Now, that was a pyrogen.

    I think that bare nichrome or better should always work provided that the ignitor is in contact with the propellant and there is sufficient watts going through it. When I was a youngster, I found that a 6 volt lantern battery was a good choice instead of the less reliable Estes controller or the always ready but clunky car battery.

    I have not used the plastic plugs yet. Are there any opinions about the merits of the plastic plugs vs. the wadding and tape methods?
     
  9. Oct 12, 2019 #9

    rharshberger

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    Keep searching TRF there are much more recent threads on this very subject and how to improve the current Estes igniters.
     
  10. Oct 12, 2019 #10

    hcmbanjo

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    At the Estes NARAM 60 plant tour, we saw the igniter machine in operation.
    Somebody mentioned the clear igniter tip was nothing more than corn starch, glue and water.

    Note the (later posted) third blog entry about removing the clear tip coat before adding the glue and BP, read that one first -
    http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2018/08/upgrading-estes-starter-igniters-part-1.html
    http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2018/08/upgrading-estes-starter-igniters-part-2.html
    http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2018/08/estes-starter-igniter-upgrade-update.html
     
  11. Oct 12, 2019 #11

    jsdemar

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    I dip them in BKNO3V slurry diluted in acetone. If you don't have the raw ingredients, Quickburst makes a kit called ProCast. It will coat the tips of 100's of Estes igniters if you want to share the cost of the kit with club members, friends, etc. The same dip can be used to make larger igniters by dipping ematches or making wrapped nichrome heads.
    http://quickburst.net/qb/procast-order-page/
    Also from Apogee:
    https://www.apogeerockets.com/index...esult&search_in_description=0&keyword=procast
     
  12. Oct 14, 2019 #12

    ebruce1361

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    I realize this is in the MMX area, but I have a general question about the Estes igniters. I have a bunch of the circa 2000 style black tip igniters that do seem to burn better than the new cornstarch versions, but they all have some amount of rust from years of storage right at the base of the tip. They still seem to work fine, but are they likely to have issues? Should I toss them and get fresh stock? (I have been experimenting with adding nail polish with mixed results depending on controller voltage)

    To bring my question back on topic, I did recently obtain a MMX silo pad to replace the old one I had as a kid, and I have a dozen motors and igniters of the black plastic plug type. When those are used up, is it feasible to use one of the plug type igniters to make a connector for the newer style igniters? I figure that way, I can still use the pad and built-in controller with newer stock motors and igniters.
     
  13. Oct 15, 2019 #13

    electricmatch

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    Dugway likes this.
  14. Oct 16, 2019 #14

    Ez2cDave

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