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Valid observation from the driver in the video - using friction brakes cleans the rotors. Duah.Huh? I went to have wheels and oil changed (for say $80-$100) and they called me to say they would do the "rotor cleaning" for en extra $100 or so. Something like that. That's as many details as I remember.
Some guy here did the experiment I had in mind. Almost the same car, probably exact same brakes and rotors:
Also some false statements that ought to be corrected, before someone takes them to heart:
- Pressing the brake pedal absolutely DOES engage friction brakes on all cars, including EVs. In EVs, you might just have to push the pedal fractionally further, since initial regen braking engagement might fool you into thinking you are already using the brake pads.
- Pressing the brake pedal does NOT disengage the regen braking, just adds extra deceleration force on top of regen braking.
- There are conditions when regen braking is not engaged in EVs: when batteries are fully charged, when batteries are cold, or when you are ABS braking, or when traction control is engaged and trying to keep you on the road.
- Changing rotors is NOT expensive. In fact, rotors are usually cheaper ($25-$45) than a set of brake pads on most commuter cars (different economics apply to track and performance cars).
Please do yourself a favor and NEVER allow yourself to be taken for the "rotor resurfacing" or "rotor turning" offers from sleazy mechanics.Generally they do it the quick way, put it on the brake rotor lathe and just skim a little bit off just like in the old days when you lathed rotors to smooth them out instead of replace them.
Why?
The ONLY time resurfacing the rotors makes engineering sense if when rotors are physically warped. As in, they measure different thickness across different points on the rotor, or are not symmetric in one of the planes. This hardly ever happens anymore, now that even cheap commuter car rotors are vented and don't overheat, and virtually all cars have switched from drum to disk pads.
In all other instances, what you might be experiencing is "shudder" is due to an uneven deposit of brake pad material on the surface of the rotor. Or uneven thickness of rust on the surface. To solve for both occurrences, just go through a quick brake pad bedding sequence, and you are good to go.
Sleazy mechanics might still try to cash in on "you should pay me to resurface your rotors" routine. It's a scam. It costs them $0 in parts, and maxes out the labor charge for doing hardly anything of value. There is nothing wrong with your rotors if they are not perfectly shiny, or have groves worn into their surfaces. The pads have worn correspondingly to conform to those groves, and the friction area is the same as when rotors where brand new.
Even if done perfectly well, all resurfacing accomplishes is shortening the lifespan of your rotor, and removing the brake pad deposit from the surface. So then you have to go back and do pad bedding again.
Which is what you should have done in the first place anyway.
HTH,
a
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