I want something BIG...ish.

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Paul Wheel Drive

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I'm back in the rocketry world now that I have kids in my life that are interested in exploring the sky. We've started small with a beginner kit, then upgraded to an Estes Red Flare, but now we (I) need something big and impressive. I've been looking at the AeroTech G-Force as a possibility. I want to get a rocket that is just under the limit and doesn't require any special certification or clearance to launch. I can't quite figure out if the G-Force fits the bill.

Can you good people recommend me the tallest & fattest, most awesomest (not a word, but should be) rocket that I can launch with G motors?
 
A g-force on a 29/40-120 g76-g reloadable is, in fact, near the upper limit of what's plausible in midpower without hazmat fees or a local vendor.

There's lots of other combos that'll get you there as well, but this should be a decent flight if your launch rod is sturdy and long enough.
 
Not a G, but at 78 inches tall might fill your bill.
Check the engine choices, for the lower power engines says you need a 6 foot rod
$22 plus shipping
https://www.apogeerockets.com/Rocke...r?cPath=1_85&zenid=8m63r9j1j51qge0fdmkvm202s6

You could probably build this leaving couplers glued to only one section, can use tape to put the sections together at launch, and disassemble to pack up and take home.
A 6’6” rocket in one piece is a PITB to transport.
 
Wildman has the G-force for $91 for club members. There hobbyline hardware and reloads are also 30% off for members. $30 member fee is paid off with the first small order.

Or just go big and get a Warlock...
 
Know your limits:

  1. Size. My model rocket will not weigh more than 1,500 grams (53 ounces) at liftoff and will not contain more than 125 grams (4.4 ounces) of propellant or 320 N-sec (71.9 pound-seconds) of total impulse.
taken from: https://www.nar.org/safety-information/model-rocket-safety-code/

There are a number of kits that fit your bill.. You are looking for "medium power". It also depends on what you're after!

ideally: 29mm motor mount & 2.6" or 3" dia air frame..

Madcow Rocketry
LOC Precision
Binder Designs
to name a few..
 
G-Force was my first "big" rocket (these days my big rockets weigh upwards of 45 lbs. ;)). If you leave out the mesh and the forward motor retainer, you can fly it on composite G motors until you are ready to put an H in it. Then get your level 1.
 
For your consideration:

LOC Micro-Magg, 4 inch airframe, 29mm motor tube. Doesn't stretch the limits but provides a lot of phat, stubby fun.

loc micro magg.jpg


Moving up the impulse ladder means upgrading launch hardware as well. A minimum 1/4 inch x 4 foot launch rod or a rail is recommended. Finding and flying with a local club is an alternative to acquiring your own.

GO1_0039r.jpg 1010 rail.JPG


https://www.nar.org/find-a-local-club/

https://www.tripoli.org/Prefectures
 
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Thank you! I'm taking notes. I needed a little encouragement because I'm sort of nervous about going big, even though for you guys 5 foot rockets probably aren't considered big. Eric, I appreciate the heads up about Wildman and their membership program. I'm leaning towards that the G-Force option there.

I'll let you guys know how it goes!
 
Be warned though, that anything you get, that we've suggested will have minimal instructions, and in some cases, minimal parts. (Don't expect an Estes or Quest kit)

Instructions will be a page, maybe 2 pages of written build instructions.

In some cases, you get tubes & fins, and a nose cone. You will be required to buy (extra) the chute, the recovery harness, motor retainer, decals, etc..

Once you start getting 'big' it's assumed you know how to build these things, and you have preferences over (or will re-use) certain parts / pieces. Make sure you understand what is included, and what isn't.. The $95 fiberglass rocket may look like a sweet deal, but then you need to add: a chute, a harness, a retainer, buttons, graphics / decals, etc.. You've just added $50 or $75 to the build to get a complete / flyable rocket..
 
The Aerotech kits have very good instructions. But seriously, if you go with the G-Force, come see us about removing the forward motor block and mesh.
 
The LOC 4" Goblin (search here for threads), if built light enough can fly on 29mm F motors. If built strong enough it can fly on 54mm J motors. Comes with 54mm motor mount, 38 and 29mm adapters, parachute, and shock cord. Also has good instructions.

Just add a parachute protector, glue, paint, and a motor.
 
Consider joining a club if there is one nearby. They will most likely have the rail you need so that saves you that expense. They will likely also have a good field. Also, if you go high, more eyes on the rocket increases the chance of finding it. Lots of other great reasons to join a club, but these are the most obvious to you.
 
I can’t recommend the Balsa Machining/Mercury Engineering’s 3” School Rocket strongly enough. BMS website is down while they’re at NARAM but the Mercury Engineering site is up https://mercury-rockets.com/index.html. The School Rocket is a slightly shorter (and lighter) version of the Invader/Mutant Daddy with a single 24mm motor. Basically a bigger, stronger version of a conventional “Estes” style rocket with detailed instructions, shock cord, nylon chute, etc... If you’re looking for something with a 29mm motor that can fly on 24mm look at the Mercury Engineering rockets. If you want to stay with Estes (nothing wrong with that) the PSII Super Big Bertha is an awesome rocket - $24 from AC Supply. SBB can safely fly on full-size E/F Estes BP motors as well as 29mm BP PSII motors and any composite 29mm within reason.
And, even though it’s not as massive as the above rockets, Estes PSII Star Orbiter is a fantastic value, especially if you can find one at a Hobby Lobby and use the 40% off coupon:)
 
Binder Design and SBR rocketry have some very nice 4" kits. Both brands were founded by Scott Binder. Binder Design was sold to Mike Fisher, SBR is still operated by Scott. Instructions are very clear, and both offer kits that have nearly everything you need (save for electronics, glues, and finishing supplies). With the thought of electronics, I'd suggest you pick up a Jolly Logic Chute Releace (JLCR) to help aid in recovery.
 
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