downhill_D
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 7, 2018
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With my level 2 certification completed I have decided to build another level 2 rocket. I only have a Caliber ISP and really enjoy flying J's but wanted something a bit heavier for bigger motors and our clubs waiver. The Hyperloc 835 kit has been updated to use 3 motor mount rings and includes LOC's E-bay switchband. I wanted to challenge myself and add some changes to my normal HPR builds.
I will be fiberglassing the fins, I discovered the 1/8" fins are fairly warped and will need flattening. LOC had a solution for me. I was going to try and CUT some G10, then I asked LOC if they would cut some G10. Unfortunately they do not have the means to cut G10 anymore BUT they were willing to send me some precut fiberglass cloth to (cut-to-fit) the fins! I will flatten these using the same method I have before (one 45lb olympic weight on top of another-flat sides facing fins) only with fiberglass. I won't be modifying the airframe so the tabs will remain without glass.
Some tools I will be using and their purpose:
Additional parts:
removable metal fasteners for switchband to payload attachment (need to be longer for stiffy coupler)
Eggtimer Wifi switch (to be built)
Eggtimer classic flight computer (to be built)
Additional vertical ply to increase e-Bay "real estate"
1010 rail buttons with weld nuts
1/4" forged eyebolt for booster to switchband attachment
a few other items may show up later on in assembly.
Venom brand Drone lithium batteries for all flights
Shear pins (for eventual DD)
I will attach pictures of the kit and my assembly (and techniques if I think they will help someone else) soon.
I will be fiberglassing the fins, I discovered the 1/8" fins are fairly warped and will need flattening. LOC had a solution for me. I was going to try and CUT some G10, then I asked LOC if they would cut some G10. Unfortunately they do not have the means to cut G10 anymore BUT they were willing to send me some precut fiberglass cloth to (cut-to-fit) the fins! I will flatten these using the same method I have before (one 45lb olympic weight on top of another-flat sides facing fins) only with fiberglass. I won't be modifying the airframe so the tabs will remain without glass.
Some tools I will be using and their purpose:
- Magnet on a stick (installing rail button weld nuts)
- Loctite 246 (grease resistant blue)
- 300mm bicycle spoke for placing epoxy. threads cut off, can be wiped clean and reused
- old 1/8" launch rod for placing epoxy for forward centering ring (wiped clean and reused)
- Japanese backsaw (razorsaw) very good for making wood parts and centering rings fast
- Polder digital Kitchen scale for weighing epoxy on rectangular cardboard pieces
- 5 min BSI epoxy (stiffy into eBay, fin tacking)
- 30 min BSI epoxy (tube assembly, fin flattening)
- Rocket poxy (motor mount, fins and fillets)
- JB weld epoxy (motor mount, eyebolts)
- Thin CA glue (for strengthening tube edges and drilled holes)
- 1500lb test
- Krylon fusion spray paint
- BBQ high heat paint (for switchband bulkheads and inside of payload tube for burn resistance)
- A rectangular cardboard box with two half circle cutouts for a "secure" cradle
- Drill and drill bits
Additional parts:
removable metal fasteners for switchband to payload attachment (need to be longer for stiffy coupler)
Eggtimer Wifi switch (to be built)
Eggtimer classic flight computer (to be built)
Additional vertical ply to increase e-Bay "real estate"
1010 rail buttons with weld nuts
1/4" forged eyebolt for booster to switchband attachment
a few other items may show up later on in assembly.
Venom brand Drone lithium batteries for all flights
Shear pins (for eventual DD)
I will attach pictures of the kit and my assembly (and techniques if I think they will help someone else) soon.